STi-R grills the fuse !

[coug]

Hi all,

I'm using an "add-a-fuse" adapter to power on my STI-R:

Add-a-Fuse => Kill Switch => Y wire from the Acc of the KL

=> One to the controller
=> One to the speaker



It worked once, and as I tried again, nothing worked at all. First I thought its the add-a-fuse which is ****, but the fuse was broken. I tried with others, but each time, it grills: 1 5amp, 1 7.5amp and 2 10amp.

Is this beacause I used a "Y wire" from the Kill Switch to power the speaker AND the controller ?

As this happened, the front receiver wasn't mounted...

I use the fuse of the interior light, so its always on, even if the key isnt in - Should I use another, which goes off with the car?

Or is it beacause of the wiring from the fuse to the kill switch which is too small ? (I used normal home speaker wiring, 0.75mm)

I dont understand what happened... But something in the installation is wrong.

[Swamp]

There are there things that could be blowing the fuse: The switch, the speaker, or the controller. I would disconnect the speaker and see if the fuse still blows. If it doesn't, the problem is with the speaker or how its wired. If it does blow, connect the speaker and disconnect the controller and see if the fuse still blows or not.

[ELVATO]

Why have a kill switch for the speaker? Wouldn't killing the controller also kill the speaker?

Also, why'd you put a 10 amp fuse with the controller? I know the speaker uses it as well, but shouldn't they each have their own dedicated fuses?

[GTRADAR]

Why have a kill switch for the speaker? Wouldn't killing the controller also kill the speaker?

Also, why'd you put a 10 amp fuse with the controller? I know the speaker uses it as well, but shouldn't they each have their own dedicated fuses?

Killing the power to the interface module will kill the power to everything. You can have the speaker rigged to a different power source, so technically there is still power there, but this makes no difference as having no signal from the detector still means no sound.

ELVATO you are right. Just pairing up the two items (interface and speaker) and adding their fuse values together doesn't make it right. Both have 2Amp fuses so the most they can handle is 2Amps each. Having said that, you do need to add the fuse total together to ensure that the line you are tapping into is providing at least 4Amps to provide enough juice to each item.

coug, your kill switch system should look like this (attached).

Swamp, your fault finding idea is correct. I would definately start with the speaker but I suggest testing with the audio socket bout out and then in. I have had a faulty speaker before that wasn't the power in but was blowing because of a fault with the audio line in... in that example the feedback from the speaker toasted the interface module so coug, you may be up for a new speaker and interface module.

[focalcivic]

Another thing, I would use a switched lead from the fuse box. the add a fuse is only rated for 10 amps, try to stay within that range. As others said, if you have both the control box and speaker off the same circuit you might want to use a 4 amp fuse in the add a fuse's second spot.

Please explain what you mean by "Y"?

I would try this, wire it up like normal to the controller first add the kill switch inline with the add a fuse's power. Then splice in the speaker to the controller's power wire. Ground everything to a good clean metal ground.

[coug]

Thank you for youre help !


I will make the testing this week-end !



By "Y wiring" I mean spliting one wire in two, like an "Y" .

[focalcivic]

Thank you for youre help !


I will make the testing this week-end !



By "Y wiring" I mean spliting one wire in two, like an "Y" .

Don't y the wire, I would just tap into the wire, like using a t tap or a wire clamp.