tips for keeping maximum performance?

[Arashi666]

^ Be careful on "generalized" spark-plug recommendations.

Some cars just don't like certain setups, and as such, it's often always better to just stick with your factory-recommended plugs, and leave this variable out of the equation.

Otherwise, check with your specific-vehicle enthusiast Forum to find out which plugs are recommended, as well as for proper gapping.

most new plugs shouldnt need to be gapped... none of the Iridiums ive ever used anyways

usually in my experience with Japanese cars (OK so just Honda and Toyota)....... Iridiums work better even in my dad's Corolla a new (OK so he's cheap and took my old set of NGK Iridium IX plugs) but it runs alot better and smoother now then it did ever before with his cheapo NGK-R Copper cores........ my engine block eats plugs no matter the variety, the OE copper, platinum with 1 electrode, platinum with 4 electrodes, Iridiums with 1 electrode, and even iridium/platinum plugs with 4 electrodes......... it seems thought that in my particular engine that the surface gap plugs seem to work best (multiple ground electrodes, 2 or 4) for me in terms of response and ignitability at the high Revs

but yes all cars are not alike so generalizations are generally bad......... silly me ops:

[TSi+WRX]

^ No, no, no need to feel bad at all. I wasn't correcting you - I was merely pointing out the need to be careful and not over-generalize.

A lot of turbocharged cars are funny that way - and heck, even my N/A DSMs responded badly to some plugs.

Go with either what the manual says, or the enthusiast community has "tested out" for your vehicle, and you'll be just fine.

---

As for plug-gapping, I would honestly and sincerely strongly recommend for you to start checking this.

Yes, they do come pre-gapped, but that may not always translate to true proper gapping, when it's in your hands. Not only have I run in to such cases myself, but I know of many, many other reports of such, too. It is always practice to double-check, especially as it's such an easy thing to do.

---

fart can and 93oct!!!

OK, so I was poking fun at this earlier by saying that I resembled that remark - but the honest truth is that for my car, I *must* run such a setup.

My tune is specifically for 93-octane fuel, any lower, I'll knock.

I actually have a back-up low-boost, conservative-timing 91-octane map on my laptop, which I take with me on longer road-trips, in-case 93-octane fuel is not available for my use. Should that become a concern, I would need to reflash my ECU, using the laptop.

And as for the fart-cans, my car is also specifically tuned for my current exhaust-side setup. Any increase in restrictions post-turbo, and I'll see higher EGTs.

So yes, in my case, if I want "max performance" from my vehicle, I do have to run my fart-cans and 93.

[SmaartAasSaabr]

My experiences with Saab show them to be really picky with the ignition setup. Use only the stock stuff. Bosch dizzy cap, Bougicord plug wires, regular NGK plugs, put Bosch plugs nope runs like crap, put Bosch wires, nope runs like crap, put platinum plugs, nope runs like crap Of course other cars are different in what they like. Consistently getting black plugs, I'd go to a hotter heat range :wink:

[TSi+WRX]

^ That's precisely it - find out what works with the car either from fellow enthusiasts, or, of course, stay with what the manual recommends for OEM/OEM-replacement.



After running on the stock heat-range for a while, I finally decided to drop to one lower. My EGTs are significantly lower (however, I also can't say that this isn't also because of my current tune), but I can't help but think that my usual short trips, combined with my typically non-aggressive driving, may cause this set to have a lower life-span that the stock range.

I plan to pull my plugs (and do another compression test) this spring - we'll see at that time, I guess!

I don't mind having to change plugs often - but the slow-slung flat-four setup does take slightly bit longer to address than what the I-4 of my past DSMs have spoiled me with.

[laserblaster]

The only oil additives which work are the functional ones, not ones which claim to increase bhp.

Engine stop leak, engine flush, power steering treatment, transmission treatments.

Aswell as diesel and gas injector treatments and injector cleaners.

I've used wynns additives and have many problems corrected by using them, my power steering started going heavy and got noisy and i was starting to get worried it was on its way out..

I'm broke and only had a few quid so i got some wynns power steering treatment and stop leak, poured it in and it was still whining and stiff but had improved slightly etc.

And about 3 days later i started it up in the morning it was cold and the power steering was very quiet, and the steering wasnt heavy that was in october november and its still slilent now and the steering near perfect.

My local vw garage uses forte additives
http://www.forteuk.co.uk/ and i use theses aswell, the the site they have some good technical tips especially about the EGR clogginghttp://www.forteuk.co.uk/EGR_contamination.htm, i know most states require egr to be fitted to comply with emission laws.




My father had a ford escort td and because how he drives it doesnt rev it up or drive it fast, it never gets driven at high speeds and the injectors are always clogging up, probably caused by the crap fuel here in the uk.

It got to a point where it too ages to start when cold with black smoke out of the exhaust (unburned fuel), this happened everyday it sounded like a banger which wouldnt start... i went to the vw garage because i know they do the forte injector cleaners and said the diesel hard starting, and my father was talking to the billy he's a great mechanic he's worked at this vw garage since he left school and he's now 50 but he doesnt look 50 and he's never had a day off sick and he said the injectors are probably blocked like i said.
I got some cleaner and added it to the tank and pushed down on the rear to shake the car and mix it in, i when started it up and gave it some high revs the clouds of crap were a good sign..

He used the car throughout the day as normal and the next morning i got up early to see if it had worked i knew it would.

And he went out and started it up and it fired straightaway

If you use the forte or wynns stuff you can't go wrong.

[Arashi666]

My experiences with Saab show them to be really picky with the ignition setup. Use only the stock stuff. Bosch dizzy cap, Bougicord plug wires, regular NGK plugs, put Bosch plugs nope runs like crap, put Bosch wires, nope runs like crap, put platinum plugs, nope runs like crap Of course other cars are different in what they like. Consistently getting black plugs, I'd go to a hotter heat range :wink:

I cant find a hotter range plug, mine are already basically at that lowest end of this spectrum (Hotter range = Lower heat number, right)

[laserblaster]

From bosch website

The heat range of a spark plug describes its ability to conduct and dissipate heat - a vital function which has to be tailored to engines individually.

Heat range is the key to the spark plugs' performance, and it is important to fit the right one for your engine requirements. The minimum temperature must be reached to prevent 'sooting' and associated misfiring, while the maximum temperature must not be exceeded to prevent automatic ignition.

Bosch spark plugs are individually adjusted to meet specific engine requirements, and the heat range is easily determined by the code number:

Low code numbers (e.g. 2 to 4) signify "cold" spark plugs, in other words, low heat conduction in hot engines (e.g. Ferrari).

High code numbers (e.g. 7 to 10) signify "hot" spark plugs, that is, high heat conduction for cold engines (e.g. VW Beetle).

[monkeydude3602000]

ok ok so if you have a turbo fart cans and 93oct is a must... I agree... Its just those silly civic drivers that do that crap to thier cars expecting to gain 20hp... lol it cracks me up.

[Arashi666]

From bosch website

The heat range of a spark plug describes its ability to conduct and dissipate heat - a vital function which has to be tailored to engines individually.

Heat range is the key to the spark plugs' performance, and it is important to fit the right one for your engine requirements. The minimum temperature must be reached to prevent 'sooting' and associated misfiring, while the maximum temperature must not be exceeded to prevent automatic ignition.

Bosch spark plugs are individually adjusted to meet specific engine requirements, and the heat range is easily determined by the code number:

Low code numbers (e.g. 2 to 4) signify "cold" spark plugs, in other words, low heat conduction in hot engines (e.g. Ferrari).

High code numbers (e.g. 7 to 10) signify "hot" spark plugs, that is, high heat conduction for cold engines (e.g. VW Beetle).

but Bosch is weired, like their low numbers are the high numbers of other brands, eg while other brands have ascending numbers Bosch numbers are decending

heres a link that contains a cross reference table:
http://www.globaldenso.com/PLUG/spec/index.html

im currently running NGK 5 range plugs, and they dont go any hotter in this line so.... yeah

[SmaartAasSaabr]

Well then you know what you have to do... Italian tuneup every week or so