Just wondering on RD net, how many and what type of Subaru's do we have on here, and what you have done to them.
Just wondering on RD net, how many and what type of Subaru's do we have on here, and what you have done to them.
2004 STi (summer car)
Cobb AP Stage II
SPT Cat back
6000k HID DR2 replacements
JDM Fogs with 3000K HID
Mad Dad Gauges in ATI pod (Boost,EGT,Oil Pres.)
Future Mods,(in other words, saving over winter)
PE 850CC injectors
Superzilla 49 Turbo
Prodrive WG Solenoid
Unequal Length Headers
Cosworth Cams,valves etc.........
Spearco TOP mount I/C (no front mounts,too much lag)
Will trailer car to PDX for tuning, yes I will trailer from MN to OR
1996 Outback (winter car)
The wifey's easy - a bone-stock 4EAT '05 WRX sedan. Crystal Grey Metallic. A Webasto moonroof was added by the dealership. I've also wired-in a hardwire for my x50, which I occasionally use in her car, if we're taking a longer trip in it. That's her daily-driver.
My daily-driver, "Winky," carries the following modifications:
2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT
Manufacture date - 06/2004
Body Style - Sedan
Trim - Limited
Color - Atlantic Blue Pearl ("periwinkle" - Winky )
OEM/factory-installed Perimeter Alarm upgrade
OEM/factory-installed STi Short-Throw shift kit
OEM/factory-installed rear spoiler
Cleared headlights w/DRL-defeat
Painted (black metallic) marker streaks
Stanza Development Laboratory carbon-fiber JDM eyelines
RPM CCFL DDEs
Sylvania SilverStar turn/markers
Osram Hyper +65 (65W) H7 low-beams
Toshiba 9011 (HIR1) high-beams, modified fit
Narva Gold fogs, re-aimed and independently wired
JinsuPower/RockBlocker "clear stacked ovals" tail-light overlays
PIAA SuperSporza/SuperSilicone wipers
Driver's side seat-belt reminder chime disabled
Escort 8500 x50-Blue (Rev5), high-left of RVM
-integrated w/ZR3 Laser Shifter (front/rear)
Laser Protector Ltd: Laser PRO Vehicle Sensing System (Laser ProPark), v8.3h/v10.1s
- dual front heads
- single rear head
- controls currently located in ashtray cubby (door retained, light disabled), w/red LED pilot light
- LED indicators mounted in Cubbypod
CR8APL8 fiberglass Ohio replica plates, front and rear
- w/LaserShield, front
Tritium and strontium indexed moonroof switch
Red overhead dome and door puddle lighting
Red OPTX 3" UltraMini tubes, front door cubby accents
KartBoy front and rear shifter bushings
RAZO RP42, 43, and 46 aluminum pedals/dead-pedal combo
MOMO F16 Evo shift knob - wood
MOMO PitStop e-/p-/hand-brake - wood
RedLineGoods custom leather e-brake boot (to fit handle above) and shift boot
MOMO T100/200 floor mats w/grid
AutoMeter NEXUS 30-0-30 psi vac/boost gauge
AutoMeter NEXUS oil pressure gauge w/WRXtra remote sender adaptor
AutoMeter NEXUS EGT gauge
AutoMeter carbon-fiber gauge cups x3
AutoMeter SportComp II voltmeter and AEM UEGO Wideband O2 gauge in center cubby w/Cubbypod CP1 (025210), cubby light disabled, door retained
TurboXS Knock/Shift light on column
GReddy Intelligent Informeter, left dash below main NEXUS gauges
ECUTeK EasyECU/DeltaDash; DELL Latitude D610
Subaru OEM LGT (driver's seat) and WRX (passenger's seat) subwoofers, daisy-chained
Blitz Nur-Spec Touring axle-back canisters
Custom 3" diameter mid-section w/Magnaflow resonator
Crucial cerametallic coated UP and shorty-DP
Crucial port, polish, and cerametallic coated (w/ EGT-tapped @cyl. #4 junction) stock manifolds w/Crucial cerametallic coated Injen SES Cross-Pipe and port-matched gaskets
Blitz Dual-Drive SS BOV (70087)
Perrin Short-Ram intake with modified K&N Typhoon heat-shield
NGK Iridium IX (LFR7AIX) one step colder spark-plugs
Prodrive oil-cap and battery tie-down
OEM JDM engine bay cover set
ECUTeK - PDXTuning (Tim Bailey) custom dyno-tune (Ohio 93 Octane Shell V-Power daily; secondary de-tune map for 91 Octane)
- @ Buschur Racing, Wakeman, OH - Mustang Dyno
Prodrive PFF-7 w/ Hankook RS-2 Z212, 225/40/18 [40/38 PSI, hot, F/R] - summer
Prodrive locking stem-caps (thanks, Ted!)
McGard Spline-Drive lugs, black anodized
Falken Ziex ZE-512, 225/45/17 [38/36 PSI, cold, F/R] w/stock rims (w/GrafxWerx reflective metallic white "STi" vinyl centercap overlay, metallic dark blue background) - winter
Rotora 330x24 1-pc. 4-pot front BBK (clears stock 17s)
Rotora slotted & drilled rear rotors (stock size)
iON Sport-Spec springs
JDM-"STi" badging front, and rear
JDM-"tuned by STi" limited edition badge, both sides
"Powered by ECUTeK" badge (thanks, Jim!)
Modified Perrin plate frame w/LaserShield, front
Modified Blitz plate frame, rear
She's nothing special, really - just a decently-fun baby-hauler (baby-Anna's currently forward-facing in a Britax Marathon [a duplicate copy is also what we use in the wifey's Rex to secure Anna, too], and I've got a generic drink-holder rigged-up on my rear-bench center armrest for her, so that she can reach her drinks and snacks while we're on-the-move). Similar vehicles on LegacyGT.com typically puts in low-13 second quarters, so it's not exactly "quick" as she stands now ops: and highway pulls definitely aren't her thing - but she's what I'd consider to be decent at the 0-60 sprint, particularly for a four-door "family sedan."
Currently at about 230 wHP and 280 wTQ, pushing a peak of 18 PSI. On the same dyno, on the same dyno, on the same day of my tune, a stock-turbo "Stage II" '05 STi put down, with a ProTUNE by Tim, just over 290 wHP and 290 wTQ. For further reference, this dyno usually has stock STIs and EVO MRs putting down about 200/200 (wHP/wTQ), even.
I have no plans to upgrade her further, mechanically, for the time being. I just don't have the budget (nor time), now, to do what I want. Anna sure eats a lot and goes through a lot of diapers ( no, actually, it's her college fund that's getting the most of my attention ) !!! She's a good and reliable "Stage II" right now, particularly with Tim's conservative and well-executed tune. I plan to run a fully-supported 30R or 35R (more likely the latter, as I'm a "dual personality" kind of guy) either when the factory turbo grenades, or about 3 years from now, whichever comes first. When my OEM struts blow (which they will, eventually, as I'm currently riding on about an inch-lower progressive-rate springs all-around), I'll invest in a better-matched set of struts to work with these springs.
My car's currently on 0W30 "German" Castrol, full-synthetic, with Purolator PurOne filters, with OCIs religiously every 2750 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Sara's Rex is on Mobil1 5W30 with a Purolator filter, every 3K miles or 3 months. I used to use M1 5W30 on Winky, too, but switched to the Castrol on a whim earlier last year. I've stuck with the Castrol since it seems to give me much more consistent oil-pressure, although I do see about a quarter-quart's worth of loss through each OCI, which I did not see with the M1.
Other fluids include Motul brake-fluid for me, and M1 ATF (as well as for my power-steering) and Valvoline brake-fluid for her. Both cars see the requisite Subaru-additive infiltrated coolant, with Redline WaterWetter. Despite the film that it tends to leave on trim and paintwork, I still prefer the RainX de-icer/bug-remover combo for our windshields, as it is extremely effective on ice; and both cars use PIAA SuperSilicone blades, replaced once a year.
I'm planning switch-over to Redline synthetics in my gearbox/tranny later on, as my main winter-maintenance project.
The only current project I have slated for my car is the LI, of which a dual-head should arrive to me sometime soon, and within the next two months, I should be obtaining dual rear heads, too. At the time I add the rear heads, I'd like to also take that opportunity install a PIAA Deno3 rear fog light to further enhance rear safety.
For Sara's WRX, I plan to perform the rear fog mod, too, to also enhance her car's winter rear-visibility safety.
And I was starting to think that you'd forgotten her name entirely and just resigned yourself to calling her "wifey" for the rest of your marriageOriginally Posted by TSi+WRX
Rear fog mod is definitely a good idea up there in Cleveland. I was thinking about doing it on my GLI, but then I realized that I have absolutely zero use for it now that I live here
Who's Sara?Originally Posted by JDS
Yep, a fellow LGTer recently clued me in to a paper done by some RPI guys for Osram, and the data reviewed seemed to point conclusively towards greatly enhanced safety (in terms of rear-on accidents) from having a proper rear-fog setup.Rear fog mod is definitely a good idea up there in Cleveland. I was thinking about doing it on my GLI, but then I realized that I have absolutely zero use for it now that I live here
I wish I could just open my tail-light housing to effect a better-integrated mod (as would be on Sara's Rex), but the way my rear housings are sealed, this becomes a much harder project than the usual "shake and bake" I'm used to. As such, the PIAA Deno3 simply is a matter of convenience.
One thing, though, that the same kind LGTer warned me about was that the LED lighting will not get hot enough to melt snow. While this area of our car enjoys good aero effects at-speed, it'll definitely be something for me to address before I start-out, on snowy days.
Do any of the lights other than head/fog lights get hot enough to melt snow? It's been so long, I can't remember
But yes, LEDs get hot in back, whereas incandescent bulbs get hot in front.
You bastard! :POriginally Posted by JDS
No, seriously ->
On our Scoobys, both of which still use traditional incandescents on all applications, fortunately enough, yes, even through the aerodynamic secondary "lens" of my car, it can still get hot enough to melt snow - ice becomes a bit tricky...a full ice-storm, traversed at highway speeds...it ain't gonna cut it.
The fogs, because of their lower position and tendency to act truly as snow-scoops, usually are snow-bound if there's sufficient roadway/driveway accumulation. However, under most road-conditions, they also get hot enough to melt themselves out.
The tail-lights are touch-and-go. Aerodynamics help, but I tend to, for safety's sake, brush them off before setting out (as I do, anyway, for the front lamps).
Totally. I've got enough custom flashlights from back in the days when 1W and 3W LEDs were rare and expensive, to know well about this. I've got some lights that have just MASSIVE heat-sinks.But yes, LEDs get hot in back, whereas incandescent bulbs get hot in front.
How massive? You mean bigger than the aluminum bases on the Luxeon Stars? "Massive" is a pretty relative term when we're talking about cooling an LED (I'm used to "massive" being any chunk of copper fins and piping significantly larger than my fist, i.e. CPU coolers).
Also, have you thought about heated washer nozzles?
OK, not *that* massive!Originally Posted by JDS
One of mine (all of these were made by friends of mine, I don't have the talent for such things, I just like collecting them) actually has a sink that's the diameter of the junction point between a D-cell Maglite body and its "head." About 3/4 of an inch thick.
In terms of flashlights, that's decently large enough to call massive. Not for your purposes, though!
On the Legacy, not so much, as I've got a heated windshield.Also, have you thought about heated washer nozzles?
It would be a nice retrofit on the wifey's Rex, and fairly simple to do, too.
Not a bad idea - now if I just had more time for these projects!!
Not JUST for your windshield...I mean your lighting, too!
A few people have done the retrofit on the US-spec VWs (none of which had headlight washers during the Mk4 era), and it is badass, to say the least. The only downside is that spraying a hot mixture of methanol and ammonia on your headlights will instantly destroy any Veil coating, but didn't you say you're switching to Laser Interceptor? If the testing holds up in real life, then Veil would simply become redundant.
Oh, and if you wanted to be really cool, you could install a second set of headlight washer nozzles in your rear bumper, wire them up in parallel to the other washers, and have the world's first all-around washing/de-icing system.
*sigh* So many projects that become irrelevant when you live down here