Nice.Originally Posted by A-TownNavi
Never heard of it and google isn't pulling anything up.
That is a rather nice system. I like the look with the subwoofers (almost looks they had been installed using the old isobarik loading ideals....) with the gasket out.
AS for construtive criticism (Since I heave dealt with car audio for a long time, and was a member at the SD forum for a very long time -on and off-)
I am not sure If those subs are all getting the manufacturers specs in the cubic foot department (cant tell where the box(es) and and start because the blurriness.) I would advise you if they arent getting the correct space (since everything seems scrunched up there) get rid of two of the subs and use the correct space for the remaining two...it should have better SQ maybe even SQL (since box size/design plays a big role in output). Also you may want to think about 2 or even 1-15 if you have room constrictions (again everything just looked cramped in that picture)- this would allow for greater lower end extension and overall subwoofer performance). I would also use a different brand (I have dealt with K-Audio products and they are good midline products I feel, but I always advise people to buy less of a higher end product and often times they like the result much more.
BTW this is all just suggestions, I'm not sure your skill level (knowledge) when it comes to car audio, just telling you what I think. However I do really like this system....looks professionally installed (was it or did you do all the fabricating).
A suggested system If you ever get ever more addicted to SQL (which with that system you seem to be )
2-15inch Orion H2's (In a 'medium' sealed enclosure -these subs really love working in small sealed enclosures compared to most SQL subs)
2-XTRPRO 2400's (Not made anymore, you will need to find used ones)
-This will be an expensive system...no doubt, but it could possibley be one of the last ones you will ever need no matter how much of an SQL freak you are if its put together correctly-
As for my systems right now (used to have much more about 2 yrs ago, then got somewhat out of car audio so this is all I have left):
2-15inch solobarics w/1500watt amp.
2-15inch subs w/400watt amp.
1-15inch sub w/200watt amp.
Also have 2 sets of the following:
4inch comp. set
6.5inch comp set.
Run off a 200watt amp.
(Just sold my 3-12inch subs)
I love the SQL.
But again your system looks great and I am sure pounds the heck out of most any system in your area 8)
I love suggestions and thanks for the input. the pic doesnt show how wide it really goes, it goes a little bit further. The main box (the one on the bottom) is built to the perfect specs for the subs. the other boxes are the ones that i built, i did it mainly for looks, and just cuz i had 2 extra lying around. 2 is loud enough for me, but 4 looks real good. and yes i did all the fabricating and installing myself, i love cars and car audio and whenever i get something i install it myself to gain knowledge and experience with it. if i wouldve done it again i wouldve had to two top ones facing out, instead of inverted, and had the box go straight up and not angled, just so i could get all the bass i can out of it. but its plenty loud for me, im interested to know what kind of db's i get. also, is Dynamat really what people say it is? ive heard it makes the biggest difference in sound quality.
Well first I would just like to say, you did a darn good job fabricating everything, it really does look like a proffesional install. (And sorry about making so many box suggestions...just trying to help...again I couldn't see from the picture) but since you got them correct...no need to change what is not broken 8) I would just make sure you arent gettin any cancellation with this setup, the more subs you get (especially when you start changing box sizes, having multiple subs, and add multiple amps the more you are starting to increase your chances of cancellation).Originally Posted by A-TownNavi
As for DB's I could not tell you what you really are hitting (way to many variables). On the old SD website from years ago there was a absolute genius on there, who posted a DB calculator that was one of the closest I have ever seen to being accurate without gettin actually tested. I actually have it copied somewhere and still have the link (but would have to find it). I could guesstimate between high 130's to mid-low 140's. Id say more towards the later (140isk). But again with so many X-Y-Z Variables it is literally impossible to give a fair guesstimate to you, The only true way is to go to a certified db drag and have them test it off the new TL meters.
As for dynomat...yes it makes a huge difference (espcially when combined with other proper sound deadening materials.) You may not get a huge increase in db's by any means, we arent talking a 6db miracle here, but I will say you will appreciate more then ever dynomats ability to create more SQ. For all intent and purposes for the average driver I feel that Dynomats main purpose is to enhance the SQ of a system more then anything else. I think (if you correctly install it) you will notice a night and day difference in the sound of your system (in terms of SQ) much moreso then any SPL gains when you are listening to it.
yeah i love how car audio shops wouldve charged me $300 to build and carpet the boxes, where as it cost me ~$80. the MDF was only $6.47 for a 4' x 2' sheet (i needed 3). then spray adhesive (2 cans), liquid nail, caulk gun, carpet, and screws. My sisters boyfriend has a reg cap s-10 and put Dynamat in it and said "you wont belive the diff". so i guess ill give it a try, esspecially since it rattles so DAM much. BTW are you selling your 2 solobarics and the amp?