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  1. #1
    Newcomer
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    stockbridge, ga
    Posts
    11

    Default PASSPORT SRX DIY: BMW 3 series

    This was an OK install, something that anybody with the right tools can do it over the weekend. I read all the installation instructions first and I will advice you to do so.

    The first thing I did was make sure I had everything I need for the install like a couple of drill bits that are called in the inst. instruc. bocklet. A Dremel came really handy too ;-)



    I started with the front:
    The shifter had to be install with (+,- 5*) from the road, so I did all my install inside my garage which is a flat. I also used a couple of tools not found in a regular garage (see pics).

    I stare at the front of the car and put some basic logic into it, I pulled my messuring tape and messured the face of the car and divided the front end of the car in 3 sections and came with the best possible location for the SHIFTERS. I did not over think the idea since the best place was not possible.

    I also used a couple of shims to tried to level the brakets for the SHIFTERS but final adjustments were made at the end with the 4 side screws. Also had to change the position of the two side brakets that hold the SHIFTER to the main bracket.

    I used the zip ties to secure the wired all the way into my fuse box which is where I went thru my firewall, since the fuse box is made out of plastic it was a piece of cake to drill the 2 holes to go into the driver compartment.

    here are the pics:

















    The Rear was next:

    The rear sensor was pretty straight forward since the location is on your license plate; I used the drill & drill bit to make the hole that was called in the installation instructions, make sure you used the right bit so the gromet or rubber thingy fits right. The only issue I had was the routing gof the cable, this cable was long and hard to manage around tight spaces, is not hard just take your time and go sllow.

    Once I had the cable routed thru the trunk lid down the hintch in to the trunk it got crazy... Besides having to take my rear seats and 3 inside door panels routing the wire was a piece of cake. Remember taking the panels is the hardest part of this part of the job since they have to go back on, So do not brake them. I routed the wire thru the driver side of the car, but I removed as many panels as I could to get to the floor and run the cable under the carpet.

    here are some pics:









    The Radar antena:
    The installation instructions they tell you to install it ib the front of the car but after doing a bit of research came up with a different location (windshield); Since this location is the higher point in your car you suppoused to get better range. So far so good, today my radar went off in the middle of traffic when I passed a cop on the oposite side of the interstate.

    I route my cable thru the headliner down the B pillar by the windshield on the driver side. I used the plate that came with the kit for the antena, I had to custom bend it and unbend it to make hold my antena where I wanted. Also I used a little metal backing plate to "sandwich" the head linner since is a made of some king of soft fiber glass.

    Pics:













    The main unit:

    I put mind right behinde my cluster I have planny of space there for all the extra wired and the main unit also it will be very easy access for me since I have a racing steering wheel that allows me easy access to it. I also marked the plugs so I knew what was what at time of plugging everything together.



    The display & LED light:

    I installed my LED by my boost gauge since that I keep my eye in that area of the car a lot, also b/c even if I'm looking at the radio or my left side mirror I can see it blick in the corner of my eye.

    The display was fine as shown in the picture of the box but I can tell you if you have a stock steering wheel you better find a good spot for the LED light.

    Pics here













    The speaker:
    all I can say is worth it, the voice alert are some awesome. I drive a really loud car and when I crussing at 4000rpms not only the Turbo is screaming, I have the straight exhaust and the engine playing my favorite tune... LOL I can hear loud and clear the voice that says "LASER ALERT".

    Pics here:



    POS:
    Forget my gramar and spelling and if you dont. keep it to your self ops:

  2. #2
    Street Lawyer
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    719, Colorado
    Posts
    7,108

    Default

    Oh man that is a clean install!!!

  3. #3
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cleveland/Shaker Heights, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    Great install ( and a very nice ride, too!! 8) ) !

    Just a word of caution with your rear laser sensor....

    (1a) Be sure to check its level, you may need to shim it, or bend its mounting points, so that it points level-to-roadway, unless your specific intent is for it to be biased positive-bubble (i.e. to help catch "descending to roadway"-type on-ramp enforcement).

    (1b) If you do intend for it to be slightly upwardly pointed, be prepared to suffer a bit more sun-induced falsing from this particular head. It's not too bad, but just know that it's more prone to happen.

    (2a) Head out to the back of your vehicle when it's dark out, and engage your parking lamps so that you can illuminate your rear plate. Make sure your plate illumination has not been compromised beyond what you would deem acceptable. Although from your installation pix, it looks like your plate-illumination lights are spaced wide enough apart to allow for decent illumination, that was the case with my rear side, too, and I did not feel comfortable in that the rear head cast a large shadow over the middle of my plate - which could, in some cases, be enough cause for a pull-over.

    (2b) If space allows (and you'll have to play with your plate, its mounting screws, as well as your need to clear that keyhole), you can even put the mounting bracket of the rear laser sensor head BEHIND the plate, and thus lend the area a bit more stealth/integration, as well as hopefully clear the "GEORGIA" lettering a bit better, too (which could potentially also cause some enforcers to execute a pull-over).

    Hope this helps!

  4. #4
    Power User
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    3,827

    Default

    I had a few questions:

    1. did you use the mute switch? and if you did where is it?

    2. where did you tap into power, also does the unit only need a power and ground? or other power leads.

  5. #5
    Speedtrap Crasher
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    6,732

    Default

    Phenomenal install. Nice! 8)
    Project "BONES" Speed Lab:
    Valentine One, Blinder M47 "All Front Configuration"
    Pro97 Police Scanner
    1 Saves / 3 Strikes as of 8/22/2009
    Estimated saves in U.S. Dollars: $200

  6. #6
    Newcomer
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    stockbridge, ga
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thank you to all of you, it was a fun install.

    In regards to the rear shifter:

    Is a funny thing when I thought about leveling it but I always see the cop in the bike shoting and ppls plates from the overhead bridge and a 1.4 mile ahead the line of 2 or 3 cop cars waiting for the speeders; So I kind of left it pointing up, but I could be wrong it was just a logic thought. :idea:

    Mute:

    I did not installed it b/c I have a very easy access to the display, as youy can see my steering wheel it has only 2 spokes None the less I thought about before I started and I was going to install it close to my e-brake (also close to my shifter).

    Power:

    These cars come with a ground right by the light switch; that was the best ground I could ever found, which is a stud coming form the chasis and a nut.

    For the possitive I used an old source from my gauges, this source comes from my ignition switch (possition 3), so it comes hot when the key is turn to start the engine ONLY. I had another source (interior lights) but that one will stay hot when the car key is turn to possition 2 (radio,windows,lights).

    [/b]

  7. #7
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cleveland/Shaker Heights, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RJ's325ITS

    In regards to the rear shifter:

    Is a funny thing when I thought about leveling it but I always see the cop in the bike shoting and ppls plates from the overhead bridge and a 1.4 mile ahead the line of 2 or 3 cop cars waiting for the speeders; So I kind of left it pointing up, but I could be wrong it was just a logic thought. :idea:
    That was my logic, too - that, and the elevated overpass/on-ramp scenario, which I mentioned above.

    Currently, covering my rear-side, I have a single LPP, centered above the rear plate, at a very slight upward angle. My hope, too, is that this will give me slightly better coverage under those instances.

    Similarly, my rear ZR3 head (located at the base of the rear plate) is at a more severe bubble-up angle. The logic there is that that item is not my primary jammer, and instead, I am using it primarily as a receiver, and also to allow good directional threat reference (since it's slaved-in to my x50, the threat display is very nice to have).

    When I get around to adding two rear heads to my LI in the next few months, I will likely have those items at true zero-bubble.

    Just wanted to be sure that as a fellow "ZR3-user," you were aware of the issues.

  8. #8
    Lead Foot
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    419

    Default

    Sick install. This personal thinks outside of box. Good JOB!!!

  9. #9
    Professional
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    1,364

    Default

    Great lookin install brotha ..I can't wait to do my remote install layout..

  10. #10
    Good Citizen
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Western WA
    Posts
    134

    Default

    I don't want to criticise your install at all. I just want to warn you: Escort defenses will do nothing against rear lidar attacks.

    I had to learn that lesson twice. And the Washington State Patrol uses Prolaser IIIs...

    On the other hand, a single LPP head on the back can provide rear laser protection. I've learned that lesson twice also.

    While you do have effective front laser protection, don't make the mistake of believing that your rear head will help you at all. It's effectively just a lidar detector.

 

 

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