Do I have the LI heads vulnerable to the sealant issue?
I bought my laser interceptor in September, 2007 right before I went away to school. During a heavy rainstorm about a month ago, at 1 in the morning, my laser alert went off for no reason. I have no way to know if the heads are really working now, although they seem to be.
How can I tell if my heads need to be replaced? Is there a definitive date range?
Second, can I see if they are working by setting them off with a remote and using the nightvision mode of a video camera?
Thanks in advance.[/i]
04-13-2008 01:16 PM # ADS
It is my understanding that if you get the normal start-up alert, "Welcome" followed by the "Parking Aid Deactivated" alert and no other alerts, it is functioning properly.
Cliff - C55
If you get no Sunlight warnings at night or many times in the absence of direct sunlight then you should be okay.
There is no way on knowing if your heads are susceptible until they pop as serial numbers have no direct connection it would seem.
It is clear when probs start so until then you should be okay
2009 Nissan GTR Black Edition - Titanium Grey
Full GTC Titan exhaust, GTC custom intakes, COBB Accessport Custom tune, 597 bhp
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.
Ultralyte 100pps, Unipar SL700, PLII
^ The above two brothers describe my understanding of the "signs and symptoms" as well - that a normal "Welcome" + "Parking Aid Deactivated" startup greeting, followed by no unusual (i.e. in night/darkness, in response to oncoming headlights, etc.) engagement of the "Sun Interference" Alert (SIA) should signal that the units are just fine.
You should be able to see the diode firing, using the method that you describe (you *must* first elicit the unit to fire, though - remembering here that not all IR-LED remotes will elicit a response). However, there's no way to tell if the firing pulse is correct (i.e. jamming).
And as ccc cited above, per Ivan, there's no way to correlate potential failure using serial number. We know that there was a large percentage (IIRC, Ivan cited something to the order of nearly 2/3 of that batch) of the first US-bound batch (Ver2.7, Rev6.09) that was defective, but it wasn't a total-loss scenario.
C55, per the other thread, is petitioning the LI principles to try to address the question of what action should be taken regarding ownership of the first US-bound batch jammers ( http://www.radardetector.net/viewtopic.php?t=35567 ).
I think it's possible that if you're one of the lucky ones who have a set in which the glue/seal holds, that it's just gonna hold, and you're not going to have to worry about it - i.e. no way to predict if it'll fail, as compared to even other batches without such seal issues.
- Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges Me: '05 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT Limited sedan, 5MT, Atlantic Blue Pearl ("periwinkle") - name: "Winky" - countermeasures: 9500i (4307, Red)/ZR3; LPP Ver8.3/Rev10.6.4s (2x front, 1x rear), LI Rev2.8, Ver7.03 (quad: 8.0A-f w/Slim 8.5-r); VEIL G4; CR8APL8 w/LaserShield (front); Cheetah GPS-Mirror Wifey: '09 Forester XT, Spark Silver Metallic
- name: "Rocky" - countermeasures: 8500x50 (Rev5, Blue); LI Rev2.9, Ver7.08 (8.5 dual)
; LaserShield-F Baby-Anna: too short to reach any pedals!