I finished troubleshooting my Laser Interceptor installation this morning (last night no power up due to bad wire tap) met up with PMoth and he tried his best but no cigar, and on the way back got my first actual hostile laser hit ever. I can't really say it was a save as I was only doing 75 on the MA pike but my V1 went off and then the L.I. announced Laser Atlanta. I even had the sense to turn it off when I got down to 65.
During the testing I was surprised at how much sooner the V1 alerted to laser than the jammer. If the jammer alert is an indication of when the gun would be able to get a reading (if I were jammerless, i think I would have enough time to dump a lot of speed.
I am basically following Calvino's installation method for an E90 here:
DIY: Laser Interceptor/ Laser Jammer install - Page 2 - BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum - E90Post.com
(Except as it needs to be modified for a E92 and for a steptronic
Well I figured out how to remove the center console on a steptronic. Yes you do pull hard on the shifter knob to remove it so the leather boot can slip off the shaft.
I could not get the steptronic panel to come out by pulling on the leather boot. I used some plastic spatulas to pry under the edge of the panel. You do need to remove two electrical connectors on the bottom of the steptronic panel.
I could not get the center console panel to come out be pulling up on the hole created by removing the steptronic panel. I used a screw driver at various points around the circumference of the steptronic panel hole and also the outer edge of the wood trim to leverage the wood trim center console panel out.
The space in the E92 engine compartment near the firewall access is ver y sparse. I was able to cut a hole in the rubber protrusion through which you put the wires to go through the firewall. I pushed a long narrow dowel through the protrusion from the driver compartment and sawed the tip of the rubber off with a serrated knife against the dowel by working from the engine compartment.
So the good news is that I got my heads installed securely and leveled. I routed the wires through the firewall. The bad news is that the LI does not power up. It's the first time I used wire taps and I probably did not make a good connection - but I'm done for tonight.
Here are some pix:
The next two show the bracket I fabricated to attach the lower end of the head to the curved bottom of the grill (compared to the one that came in the box). I used a saber saw to cut a strip out of a cold air door sweep (the kind that has a rubber flap and attached to the bottom of a door.) Mine was made out of aluminum of about the same thickness as the OEM bracket and was very malleable, I made a cardboard template to figure out where and at what angle to bend it. I used a vice and a hammer to bend it. I painted them matte black but they got scratched during the installation so I need to touch them up.
Here's a view from the back of the grill:
Here's a closeup from the front:
Here an installed view - (my car is dirty but not that dirty)
The bubble is slightly recessed from the front edge of the grill slat but compared to a horizontal installation I think it should be much less obstructed. Plus the bubbles are close to the headlights. It is fairly stealthy and fairly secure compared to an installation using tape.
the CPU box is just temporarily velcro's to side of the console under the driver side dash and teh kill switch is just taped to my ProClip, and I still have to install my single rear head, but all in all a very good day indeed. Thanks