ZR3: how easy to install

[joey_corleone]

I'm really interested in a ZR3. I am a pretty technical guy when it comes to computers and such and have done small car projects like hard wiring my 8500 x50. I am not very good with mechanical stuff though. I full understand what needs to plug into where and how it works, but I am worried about mounting the sensors. I would have no idea how to do that, is it easy???

Any members in the Detroit area interested in helping me with that project? Would be going in my Mustang GT , linked to my 8500.

- Joey

[Lucky225]

I'm really interested in a ZR3. I am a pretty technical guy when it comes to computers and such and have done small car projects like hard wiring my 8500 x50. I am not very good with mechanical stuff though. I full understand what needs to plug into where and how it works, but I am worried about mounting the sensors. I would have no idea how to do that, is it easy???

Any members in the Detroit area interested in helping me with that project? Would be going in my Mustang GT , linked to my 8500.

- Joey

I donno specifically about the Mustang, but I've installed the SR7/SRX and RX75(which is basically a zr3 with a remote display instead of the 8500) in a couple of cars and never had any problems. It really just depends on how professional you want the install to be, if you want it really professional you may have to drill holes depending on the car, if not, you can usually route the wires through the grill, up through the hood and through the firewall or through the door panels and up under the dash. If you don't want to drill holes in the grill you can use some 3M double-sided weather tape that's used to mount address numbers, just use a level to make sure the heads are level.

[BossMan4Life]

I've got he RX75pp which is basically the same thing and it's pretty easy. Plug and play with a little drilling to make it neat.

[TSi+WRX]

I'm a weekend shade-tree greasemonkey wrench.

By trade and training, I'm a biological scientist - working on the car is my *perfect* way to relax. Those new Valvoline commercials? I *love* them.

Although I can easily change my own oil, fluids, filters, do a brake-job, etc., I'm still a relative noob when it comes to both the mechanical/electrical systems as well as the "tuning" aspect of my car. Sure, I've installed various gauges (yes, my soldering is pretty ugly, but heck, it works!), sensors, and other stuff, but honestly, I'm far, far from a pro, and while I try the best I can, anyone can easily spot my mistakes and shortcomings. ops:

I hope, by my confession above, you can gauge your own level of proficiency.

The ZR3 and her sisters are pretty easy - in-cockpit wiring is no more complicated than hardwiring your detector.

Finding good routing for all of your in-cabin cable-runs can be a bit of a challenge, particularly if you intend to trail the rear head out to the rear (and you want a completely "invisible" install), but overall, it's not that bad.

The front firewall snake-through can be a bit of a challenge, especially to the un-initiated, but if you've got a buddy who has worked on cars before, enlisting their help would likely be both of great benefit overall, as well as will likely be of great help with this little complication.

Getting the heads mounted to the front of the vehicle is also not nearly as bad as you think it may be. Mock-up the install, first, by pre-assembling the mounting brackets onto the heads and then just holding them in-place in your desired location. Use a bit of "masking tape" to secure them temporarily, and get some measurements, etc., to insure that you're in your "best odds" spots. After that, simply use "3M Automotive Trim/Mo(u)lding Tape," which is available in any chain-retail automotive supply store (check either the paint/finish isle or the adhesives isle - if you can't find it, just ask a clerk, they'll know, right-away - it's typically in a blister-pack, black background with white lettering, and the tape itself is usually grey colored, and backed with red peel-off backing) to affix the bracket/head to their desired locations, taking care to pre-clean the area (soap & water, dry with lint-free cloth; then use rubbing alcohol to again clean the area and allow to fully air-dry; mount the tape only under the surface temperature conditions listed on the package - if it's too hot, it won't get a good initial stick). After it's on there, you can then use the supplied self-tapping and locking-washer equipped screws to fully secure the brackets to your bumper "skin."

[BossMan4Life]

^^You can tell he's a scientist because he definantly broke that down^^

[TSi+WRX]

^

Nah, it's just my usual "diarrhea at the keyboard." ops:

[erickonphoenix]

TSi covered most of the points. Especially head mounting.
If you've installed a few car stereos then the ZR3 is cake. In fact it's easier because you don't have to wire speakers or an antenae.

Tips from my ZR3 install integrated into the SR7.

The firewall drill is usually not a problem. You just need to start from the interior side first then check the engine bay for incursions. Also be sure to use the supplied rubber isolators to carry the wiring through the firewall and pin the wireing down with wire harnesses. when you reach a vacant area in the fender well or in my case next to the glove box, coil the excess wire together and pin it agains a fixed surface. If your really sure this ZR3 will never move to another vehicle then clip the wiring down so it fits perfectly. My electronics always seems hand themselves down to other vehicles so I leave excess wiring in place.

Important. Be sure you tap into a switchable circuit. This would be one that turns off and on with the ignition. I had the SR7 tapped into the cigarette lighter circuit which come to find out on the Corvette is not switchable. It stays on all the time. It took me a while to figure out what was going on there. In fact I had to call Escort CS for the fix and it took them a couple of calls to track down the issue.

Also, invest in the external speaker. You will usually get knicked when you least expect it. Stereos on, your looking for a cross street and have to speed up to get in front of the car next to you so you can turn and BAM your busted. That external speaker is worth its weight in gold if you like to jam in your ride.

Lastly. Put the ZR3 head unit where you can see it. Too many people get overly stealthy on their displays and end up missing alerts because the head unit is not easily visible. This applies to Escorts C6 model car. IMO that SRX head unit is not installed properly. Stick it over your rearview mirror or better yet get it into your instrument cluster.

[joey_corleone]

You guys have all provided awesome information. I think I will save myself some money, and gain myself some knowledge and experience by doing this myself and maybe a buddy that is more familiar with getting through firewalls although I think I should be OK since I had an awesome stereo system custom installed (probably already a hole in the firewall). When I get home tonight I will take a few pix of my front end as well as the interior. I have a great spot I think I can put the ZR3 display unit. When I had the stereo installed it required a plastic mounting piece to cover the holes left by the newer smaller radio... so that extra space on the mount is filled with a little tray where you can put things, probably about the size of the ZR3...boy that would be sweet if it will fit!

One more question to those who have done these 2 front/1 rear units. I've read alot about people recommending you use all 3 sensors up front, what is your take on that?

- Joey

[erickonphoenix]

This was my SR7 install on my old WRX. The ZR3 display is the same size. I wish the Vette had as nice a spot to put it as the WRX did.

[QuickCummins]

thats a perfect fit eric. do you think the ZR3 would work good on my truck. mainly to intergrade it with my STI.

Dodge 2500 4X4
pic here http://www.radardetector.net/viewtopic.php?t=28655