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  1. #1

    Default Rear zr4 jammer goes off when I floor gas

    When I'm driving and floor it in HIGH RPMS my rear laser goes off. I don't get why. can anyone tell me? Is this a defect or something?

    It's kinda annoying

  2. #2


    Quote Originally Posted by maple50175 View Post
    When I'm driving and floor it in HIGH RPMS my rear laser goes off. I don't get why. can anyone tell me? Is this a defect or something?

    It's kinda annoying
    Are you hitting around 6,000 RPMs? That translates to 100 revs per second which is the pulse rate for some laser guns as I recall. Anyway, electrical noise is your problem. The laser detection circuitry in both radar detectors and laser jammers is highly amplified. This means that even fairly small amounts of electrical noise which get into the unit can be amplified too and "seen" as a pulsed laser signal.

    One of Escort's engineers told me to make sure that the front laser shifter cables are not run close to the car's horn (yep, honking the horn can sometimes cause a false), and that the cables are not run close to the car's ignition system components such as the spark plug cables, the distributor or the ignition coil.

    But you are getting a false alert from your rear laser shifter which I assume is mounted at the rear of your car. So likely the noise is getting into the ZR4 electronics via the power and ground wires on its interface module. Check that you have a really good ground connection. Re-crimp the spade lug on the ground wire, or replace the spade lug with a new one if you can pull the wire out if it when tugging with just 1/2 pound of force on the wire. Next, where are you getting the ZR4's power from? I assume the fuse box and that perhaps you are using an add-a-fuse circuit. If so, then check the add-a-fuse crimp where you crimped the ZR4's power wire into the add-a-fuse. Finally, plug that add-a-fuse into either an unused high amp (10A or higher) fuse box receptacle or into one of the other currently used 10A or higher receptacles. Why? The higher amp fuse box terminals have larger cables which run back to your car's alternator and battery. Finally, check that your battery cables are clean and tight on the battery terminals. I assume that you don't have a weak car battery.

    If the above doesn't get rid of the false alerts, then go to Radio Shack and get one of their small snap-on RF filters (RF choke), wind just the ZR4's red power wire through it twice, and snap the choke together. The choke should totally solve the ZR4 false alert problem, assuming that you have verified that you have good power and ground connections.

  3. #3
    Advanced Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007


    Excellent suggestions MEM-TEK. You learn something new every day.

    Hey Maple, did you see that we were having another laser day in CT? It would be a great time to run your car through the gauntlet. You would be getting your Zr4 tested by every major threat in the counrty. And I could check out your electrical connections and install for you. Let me know!? The testing day is a little over a week away.
    Puma Power!!!
    Don't be a lemming!! Follow your own destiny!!!

    Ducati Team 2013 FORZA DUCATI!!!!

  4. #4
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    New Jersey


    dam i never would have thought of that

  5. #5
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Cleveland/Shaker Heights, Ohio, USA


    If the ZR3's history is any indication:

    Also be sure that you don't somehow crimp/pinch the rear head's cable, or cause it to be crimped when the vehicle suddenly pitches back from weight-transfer.

    Even a little can do it.

    This - the "pinching" - has been reported many times, and yes, it's possible for a trunk (or other items which may pass close enough to your wiring run) lid to shift enough under such situations to cause an issue.



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