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Thread: hardwire risk?

  1. #1
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    Default hardwire risk?

    hey guys, im pretty new to posting here but have been reading for a while. i feel im pretty close to making my first radar purchase (V955) for my mazda3. i want to hardwire the detector for a more permanent/discreet viewing. i know how to do it, im not asking that.

    im worried about the risks... if i just use the hardwire kit and directly wire to my moonroof and adjacent ground, will i risk blowing/frying/shorting anything?? is it worth the extra time and money to run the fuse attachment??

    id appreciate any help you guys can offer! (both on subject and my choice of first radar detector)

  2. #2
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    Default

    Nope won't hurt a thing..... I prefer hard wiring to my Fuse box just so
    I don't have to Splice into preexisting factory wires. This way when
    I decide to buy another car, I can just take out the Hardwire and
    wire up my new one.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: hardwire risk?

    Quote Originally Posted by RDM3
    im worried about the risks... if i just use the hardwire kit and directly wire to my moonroof and adjacent ground, will i risk blowing/frying/shorting anything?? is it worth the extra time and money to run the fuse attachment??
    Like Orbital said above, using something such as an "Add-A-Circuit" fusable link or even the old/tried-and-true "strip'n-plug" method into your vehicle's in-cabin fuse-block is typically both easier as well as easier to "clean up," when it's time to turn-over the vehicle.

    However, typically, with the low-draw of detectors and such accessories, getting them to "share" a hardwire with non-vital accessories such as, say, the moon-roof, should be no problem at all.

    Other close-by taps, such as that for any type of powered accessory rear-view mirror, overhead console lighting, etc., are also routinely used. Usually, what will make someone decide for or against tapping such wires are considerations of spacial allowance (i.e. whether or not the space can easily accommodate a "vamp/T-tap," or even whether or not they have enough working room in such an area to solder) and whether or not the source is switched or "constant on."

  4. #4
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    well the moonroof obviously only works when the car is on... i do know that there is enough room in there for a tap.

    so it would be just fine splicing the wire or tapping the wire? im not going to short anthing or blow anything when i use both at the same time am i?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDM3
    well the moonroof obviously only works when the car is on...
    ^ You'd think that's true - :wink: - but if the accessory draws a low enough current or the circuit isn't truly "off," this could be problematic.

    I'm currently having this same trouble with my LPPs and my vehicle...in that I need to find a TRULY "off" circuit to tap. ops:

    If you're capable, then testing the leads yourself with a multimeter is definitely the quickest and easiest way to go. Otherwise, consult with your specific vehicle (make/model/model-year) enthusiast/hobbyist Forum/d-board for more precise information.

    so it would be just fine splicing the wire or tapping the wire? im not going to short anthing or blow anything when i use both at the same time am i?
    That's unfortunatley something I can't easily answer for you. Most detectors draw no more than 2 amps when they're operating, but I don't know how much juice your moon-roof draws either during normal operation or when it encounters some kind of temporary blockage.....

    If you do "blow" something, it'll be the fuse for the moonroof (and whatever else accessory that may share that same fuse on the block/circuit. It should not hurt anything permanently - which is why there's a fuse for it in the first place.

  6. #6
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    so theres no way i can sayyy fry my radar or anything other than a fuse? im not the best with circuitry...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDM3
    so theres no way i can sayyy fry my radar or anything other than a fuse? im not the best with circuitry...
    ^ That's a good question - will the RD fry, in such a situation?

    Anyone else wanna step up to the plate here and answer this?

    I'm sadly a biological scientist by trade and training. I may have gone to medical school, but all that required was a good grade in college-level physics, and even "physics for poets" counted. ops:

    Maybe wiring-in a small in-line fast-blow fuse, in-between the power wire for the moonroof and your detector, would be a good idea, nonetheless?

    :?:

    I honestly wish I knew, bro, but at the end of the day, I'm just a weekend shade-tree greasemonkey. ops:

    Hopefully someone with more experience can step up and take this question for you!

  8. #8
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    haha well its all good, im only in highschool so your guess is as good as mine! in my opinion, though, if i was going to route a blow fast fuse line, i mite as well just wire the fuse from radarroy. that way its done right and isnt a bunch of wires running everywhere... i just gotta figure out how to route the wires now...

    i sent a pm to radarroy about this yesterday, hopefully hell get back to me on this with some better information. nobody seems to know (i have asked on the mazda forums page as well).

    any feedback on the V955 in the meantime? :P

  9. #9
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    ALWAYS USE A FUSE!!!!!!!!!!!! I have mine hardwired to the fuse box as well, but I also have an inline fuse to the RD. Can't have too many fuses...lol.

    But simply hooking into another power source isnt going to short anything out, unless you touch something that makes it a complete circuit. If cautious, disconnect the battery and then set it up and hook it up.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by asianfire
    ALWAYS USE A FUSE!!
    Have to agree with AsianFire here. Alway use a fuse. Not only do I have an inline fuse that's integrated into the SmartCord but I also have one in my "Add a Circuit". If you do tap into your Sun Roof, use the SmartCord it's got an inline fuse on it.


 

 

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