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  1. #1

    Default Car battery power output

    Hey guys,

    Just wondering if there's anyone out there running LOTs of accessories that takes power consumptions from the single 12V battery. Just trying to see what I'm running may be little over the top for the single 12V battery can take.

    Extras accessories that is installed and running on my current car:

    Bel Sti driver
    Bel external speaker
    GPS
    M25 J16 v2.0
    Cheetah Wireless kit
    Laser Interceptor Dual

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Speed Demon
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    Default Re: Car battery power output

    I don't think the combined amps of all those devices would be enough to cause any problems.

    You only start to have issues if you install high power demand things like driving lights, refrigerators, stereo amplifiers and such, even then it's not really the battery that becomes the issue but the alternator which may not be large enough to keep up with the demand.

    Of course the battery is a big issue if your running stuff with the engine off. I have a two battery set up in my 4X4 so I can run a fridge when out camping.

    HTH

  3. #3
    Street Lawyer
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    Default Re: Car battery power output

    Quote Originally Posted by Carrots View Post
    I don't think the combined amps of all those devices would be enough to cause any problems.

    You only start to have issues if you install high power demand things like driving lights, refrigerators, stereo amplifiers and such, even then it's not really the battery that becomes the issue but the alternator which may not be large enough to keep up with the demand.

    Of course the battery is a big issue if your running stuff with the engine off. I have a two battery set up in my 4X4 so I can run a fridge when out camping.

    HTH
    x2, cranking amps on a car battery are phenominal, and with the alternator running you get upwards of 14.8v, so as long as you don't drop below 13v w/ the ignition on you're fine.

  4. #4
    Yoda of Radar
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    Default Re: Car battery power output

    Lol, those things will do nothing to your battery.

    The current draw from all those combined is astronomically smaller then some of the things I have run in a car before.


    Carrots makes 2 good points which I agree with:

    1)The things he lists are often big current-drawers.

    2) Your alternator is what supplies the real power when your car is running (driving... as the max output from your alternator only kicks in at certain RPMS).
    When lights dim and such, its time to look at a better (aftermarket) alternator... to that end some people need multiple alternators... but you are getting no where near there.

  5. #5
    Yoda of Radar
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    Default Re: Car battery power output

    Quote Originally Posted by Lucky225 View Post
    x2, cranking amps on a car battery are phenominal, and with the alternator running you get upwards of 14.8v, so as long as you don't drop below 13v w/ the ignition on you're fine.
    Mehhh...
    There isn't anything wrong with dropping below 13volts with the ignition on... especially if running fans/lights/defrosters etc are all going something like 12.7 or 12.8 volts at idle wouldn't be any cause for concern... maybe low 12's, but 12.8 with lots of acc. and aftermarket things on is perfectly normal... especially on econo-boxes, or older cars.

    Now below 13 volts at 4k RPM... there might be a cause for concern.
    Last edited by AirMoore; 02-13-2009 at 08:13 PM.

  6. #6
    Speed Demon
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    Default Re: Car battery power output

    I run a CB, External PA speaker with independent power, Garmin GPS, RS Scanner, V1, Sirius Sportster 5 Radio, and being that it's winter, Defrosters....I run these all at all times. My headlights dim when the engine fan kicks on, but they recover quickly. I have come to the conclusion that I am most definitely giving my alternator a slow death, but running all that sh!t on a 4 cylinder Honda is asking for it. I could create more amperage peddling a bike....


    rc

  7. #7
    Radar Fanatic
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    Default Re: Car battery power output

    don't worry I run a ton of stuff on my car and don't have problems.

    I have installed:

    CB radio (5 amp fuse)
    V1 (2 amp fuse)
    m25 (2 amp fuse)
    Garmin (2 amp fuse)
    Stereo (10 speakers, 12" sub, 1000W total power) (80 amp fuse)
    high power headlights (stock fused)

    and I don't have any problems what so ever. The only time I notice anything is when I am at an idle have all of these turned on plus the rear defrost and and heater. The only reason is because the alternator is spinning to slow to produce enough amps. Remember that most alternators are made to produce peak amps at about 2000 rpm, anything lower and they will not be able to keep up. The main problem is that rear defrost, they usually pull about 20 amps to run and that is what causes most people problems.

  8. #8
    Lead Foot
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    Default Re: Car battery power output

    I used to have some problems on my 93 Tahoe 4X4 auto.

    It was at night with lights on, AC on full blast (Phoenix) stopped at a light with the brake lights on at idle with an auto trans. I had also removed the stock waterpump driven fan and added two 20 amp electric fans. It was way more than the alternator could put out at idle.

    In this situation, cars dont put out enough at idle, so I searched and found smaller alternator pulleys online. Now my alternator spins faster at idle and puts out more = no more 11 volts and dim lights.

  9. #9
    Speed Demon
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    Default Re: Car battery power output

    ive got my two 12" subs and 1200 watt dclass amp, radar, gps, cell phone charger, ipod, edge, all running off my battery..i think its somewhere like a 720crank power and a size 72..i think..

  10. #10

    Default Re: Car battery power output

    Thanks for all of this guys! I was worried about the power usage, and was looking at an Optima battery (about $200), even though everything seems to run fine. I will hold off and see what happens.

 

 

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