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  1. #1
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    Default how to build direct wire

    i need cable size and fuse size

    it will be for my sti

    i was looking at the normal phone cable will this work alright

    it seem a little small to attach a fuse to it

    any help would be very appreciated

  2. #2
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    Default Re: how to build direct wire

    Quote Originally Posted by balou View Post
    i need cable size and fuse size

    it will be for my sti

    i was looking at the normal phone cable will this work alright

    it seem a little small to attach a fuse to it

    any help would be very appreciated
    so you bought an STI but are to cheap to buy a 10 dollar cord?

    https://www.escortradar.com/store/direct-wire-cord.html

    seriously man not worth the possibility of burning your rd

  3. #3
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    Default Re: how to build direct wire

    Quote Originally Posted by Montu View Post
    so you bought an STI but are to cheap to buy a 10 dollar cord?

    https://www.escortradar.com/store/direct-wire-cord.html

    seriously man not worth the possibility of burning your rd
    lol Sti's are 500.00 buck's and can't drop down 10.00 maybe he didn't buy it maybe its stolen who knows either way don't be so cheap not to get a 10 cord haha

  4. #4
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    Default Re: how to build direct wire

    Wow. Great responses guys. Keep up the great work. That's the way to show unity and support towards a fellow forum member.

    I'd help you Balou, but I don't really know how to build a direct wire cord, other than the fact that its 12v negtive ground using a standard phone cable.

    J/

  5. #5
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    Default Re: how to build direct wire

    I'll do the best I can, this is how I made my direct cord for my Escort 8500.

    Balou, find a phone cord. Cut one end of the cord off and strip about 1 inch of the sheilding off of it. There will most likely be four wires, you only need the inner two (green and red). Strip about 1/4 off of the green and red wires and tin them with solder. Stripping them can be difficult as they're very thin, yet the sheilding surrounding them is very tough. Don't worry, if you don't get it right the first time, keep trying, but don't try to strip too much at a time, as once you make a mistake you have to cut the wire, making it shorter and shorter.

    Tin the two wires with solder. Plug the other end (the side with the jack) of the cord into your detector and then take the other two wires and connect them to a 9V battery. This way, you can determine which is the "hot" wire and which is the "ground", without risking your detector, 9V should be enough to get it started (without risking frying it) although it most likely won't like it. You only need to connect the wires long enough for the detector to "beep" or whatever start-up sequence the Sti has.

    Once you've determined which is the "hot" wire (green or red), solder a quick-connect onto the hot wire and a ring terminal to the ground (optional, I just screwed the bare wire under a screw, which is why I told you to tin it so it doesn't fray).

    Next, either use an add-a-ciruit, plug it into your fuse box, tap into the red wire on the add-a-circuit, connect the hot wire with the quick connect, ground the ground wire using a nearby screw. Optional: turn the ignition on to make sure your detector powers up. (no use going thru all of the work to hide the wire if you've made a mistake)

    Once you've confirmed that the detector is getting power, you can hide the wire and enjoy.

    This isn't the best guide, but let me know if you have any further questions.
    Last edited by NiTrO bOiE; 03-12-2009 at 09:41 PM.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: how to build direct wire

    Quote Originally Posted by Montu View Post
    so you bought an STI but are to cheap to buy a 10 dollar cord?

    https://www.escortradar.com/store/direct-wire-cord.html

    seriously man not worth the possibility of burning your rd
    I never understood this either Montu. Cables are already made specifically for the cause, and arent much $ compared to what was spent on the detector. Taking the time to make a half-@ss one and risking problems blows my mind.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: how to build direct wire

    its not that im too cheap its that i want it now..

    thanks for those who gave me a normal answer
    Last edited by balou; 03-13-2009 at 07:21 PM.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: how to build direct wire

    Quote Originally Posted by balou View Post
    its not that im too cheap its that i want it now...

    and no its not stolen i just bought it from jerry

    thanks for those who gave me a normal answer
    pay 10 and 20 over night shipping still just 30 bucks which isnt alot of money

  9. #9
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    Question Re: how to build direct wire

    Quote Originally Posted by balou View Post
    its not that im too cheap its that i want it now..
    Reminds me of the story of the Tortoise and the Hare ...


    Serious question, if you mess up that STi with your 'home made' cord and have to send the entire unit back to Bel for repair, do you really think it will be quicker than ordering the cord from them now?

  10. #10
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    Default Re: how to build direct wire

    I didn't see anything about an inline fuse?

    I believe the fuse I got with my direct wire smart cord and the one I found in my cigarette lighter plug for my 955 were both 2A. Radar detectors are delicate electronic devices and shouldn't be hooked up directly to a 10A add-a-fuse or even under another fuse entirely.

    I made a cord for one of my vehicles because I could and because I didn't want to wait 3-5 business days and a weekend for the "real" cord to arrive.

    Stripping the wires is really easy with the right tools. You can find a basic all in one crimper, stripper and bolt cutter at Wal Mart for cheap. Pick up a cheap multimeter as well so you can check the polarity instead of just plugging it in and hoping that the detector "likes it."

    Quote Originally Posted by NiTrO bOiE View Post
    I'll do the best I can, this is how I made my direct cord for my Escort 8500.

    Balou, find a phone cord. Cut one end of the cord off and strip about 1 inch of the sheilding off of it. There will most likely be four wires, you only need the inner two (green and red). Strip about 1/4 off of the green and red wires and tin them with solder. Stripping them can be difficult as they're very thin, yet the sheilding surrounding them is very tough. Don't worry, if you don't get it right the first time, keep trying, but don't try to strip too much at a time, as once you make a mistake you have to cut the wire, making it shorter and shorter.

    Tin the two wires with solder. Plug the other end (the side with the jack) of the cord into your detector and then take the other two wires and connect them to a 9V battery. This way, you can determine which is the "hot" wire and which is the "ground", without risking your detector, 9V should be enough to get it started (without risking frying it) although it most likely won't like it. You only need to connect the wires long enough for the detector to "beep" or whatever start-up sequence the Sti has.

    Once you've determined which is the "hot" wire (green or red), solder a quick-connect onto the hot wire and a ring terminal to the ground (optional, I just screwed the bare wire under a screw, which is why I told you to tin it so it doesn't fray).

    Next, either use an add-a-ciruit, plug it into your fuse box, tap into the red wire on the add-a-circuit, connect the hot wire with the quick connect, ground the ground wire using a nearby screw. Optional: turn the ignition on to make sure your detector powers up. (no use going thru all of the work to hide the wire if you've made a mistake)

    Once you've confirmed that the detector is getting power, you can hide the wire and enjoy.

    This isn't the best guide, but let me know if you have any further questions.

 

 

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