RF Gain Question

[robcollins5]

Hey guys,
I wouldn't consider myself an expert on CBs by any means, but I'm definitely no n00b. That being said, the RF Gain is eluding me. Everything I've read has said to keep it turned all the way up so that I don't lose out on any incoming signals. However, when I have it maxed out on my Uniden Pro538W it leaves me no play in the squelch. I guess I don't have to have play in the squelch but being used to more basic radios it feels funny to not have to worry about that "sweet spot."

What do you guys think? Should I leave both RF and Squelch maxed or move RF to 75% and enjoy a little more play in the squelch?

rc

[Stealth Stalker]

It's a sometimes delicate dance to find that sweet spot. Kind of like getting the graphic equalisers just right on your stereo. You can't put a number value on it. You just know it when you hear it.

It's also going to be very dependent upon the performance of your set-up. If you're hearing ten miles away with a quality set-up, then you probably won't mind cutting that distance in half to balance out the noise from unwanted, weak, or distant signals. If you're on a budget set-up, with borderline reception in the first place, then you might not want to lose any of it.

There's really no way to quantify it without a lot of experimentation and getting to know your set-up's capabilities intimately.

[AirMoore]

Well... you certainly never want the squelch maxed out... for our countermeasures purposes.



Personally I run my RF Gain at about 9/10th I would say (100% picks up large-power-lines nearby)


And on an average day my squelch at around half... on a busy day it may have to go above that to filter out the junk, and below that half is for 12-5AM travel with very little junk on the airwaves. I have had days where I have had the squelch just a smudge above 0-though... to really get the long-range alerts...


Then again, my radio has a tone function, (along with other tid-bits) which helps to make the static much softer if I wish, and for a bit better long range communication...


Basically... you want your RF up 3/4's to MAX for countermeasure purposes... and the squelch just above the noise-floor. If your noise floor is Max on the squelch:

A) There is a ton TON TON of radio traffic... often the worst in the city.

B) Your picking up interference from something nearby. (power lines).. often the worst in the city.

C) Something might be wrong with your install and you are getting interference from yours cars electrical system... (my best guess).



Look at my videos on youtube: AirMoore

You will see the CB continually cutting in and out, and me making the odd-adjustment to my squelch to keep it on the noise floor edge. OR IF I have the squelch settings where I want them you will see me flip the TONE settings to make it sound better.

[robcollins5]

I'm running the 538W with a Lil Wil. I know I'm getting a lot of alternator feedback but I just can't manage a better ground. Believe me, I've tried. I guess I'll just have to sacrifice the range for some more play with the noise floor. Small Cars FTL.

rc

[cooljay]

I'm running the 538W with a Lil Wil. I know I'm getting a lot of alternator feedback but I just can't manage a better ground. Believe me, I've tried. I guess I'll just have to sacrifice the range for some more play with the noise floor. Small Cars FTL.

rc

Go to Sparky's CB shack website, click on sale items and at the very bottom is a Inline Power Filter ($6), get it and install it on your ground and hot wires and it should take care of the noise if it's coming in through your power lines.

[supercowpowers]

I'm running the 538W with a Lil Wil. I know I'm getting a lot of alternator feedback but I just can't manage a better ground. Believe me, I've tried. I guess I'll just have to sacrifice the range for some more play with the noise floor. Small Cars FTL.

rc

Go to Sparky's CB shack website, click on sale items and at the very bottom is a Inline Power Filter ($6), get it and install it on your ground and hot wires and it should take care of the noise if it's coming in through your power lines.

Before you do that, disconnect your coax from the radio. If the noise goes away, it's coming in through the antenna and a power line filter won't do squat.

[FoolishOne]

...538W with a Lil Wil...

538 Watts through a Lil Wil! Holy....

[robcollins5]

Lol. W is for weather. I'm sceptical of antenna noise only bcuase neither my vehicle radio nor Sirius radio have the problem. I didn't even think about an online filter. I pretty much feel like an assclown. I'll make the changes next time I have my console/dash opened up.

rc

[supercowpowers]

I'm sceptical of antenna noise only bcuase neither my vehicle radio nor Sirius radio have the problem. I didn't even think about an online filter. I pretty much feel like an assclown. I'll make the changes next time I have my console/dash opened up.

rc

Satellite "radio" and FM radio won't pick up the same interference you get on your AM (CB) radio. I'll eat my words if it is honest-to-god electrical noise but I'd bet money it's not. I actually bought one of those inline power filters and it didn't do squat for my ignition and windshield wiper noise. At least pull the coax first and see.

[bradthemad]

I'm running the 538W with a Lil Wil. I know I'm getting a lot of alternator feedback but I just can't manage a better ground. Believe me, I've tried. I guess I'll just have to sacrifice the range for some more play with the noise floor. Small Cars FTL.

In my small car, running a power wire directly to the battery instead of the fusebox or other tapped source made all the difference. My CB had a high-pitched whine and background thumps that increased with engine speed, and that noise went completely away with the direct wire, whereas 2 inline filters in series didn't help at all.