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  1. #1
    Good Citizen
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    Default DIY Power (Kill) switch/knob

    Anyone know how to make a remote kill switch? I remember reading about one someone did using the remote audio adapter. But I also remember reading about how to create your own. Can't find it on the search - must be using the wrong search terms... :?:

    I want to create the kill because I'm hardwiring my V1 this weekend and l need to be able to kill the V1 power, as opposed to just muting it with my concealed display.

    Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

  2. #2
    Radar Fanatic
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    To do it with the remote audio adapter is pretty simple. It comes with instructions for how to do it and it's no more complicated than figuring out which plug to place in which jack.

    I would think that building your own would be relatively simple. Couldn't you just get your own switch from Radio Shack and put it in-line with the 12V+ wire? That should be acceptable since it doesn't draw a whole lot of current. The total cost would probably be 1% of what it costs to buy the remote audio adapter. That gets my vote if you just want a remote kill switch.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by brick
    Couldn't you just get your own switch from Radio Shack and put it in-line with the 12V+ wire? That should be acceptable since it doesn't draw a whole lot of current. The total cost would probably be 1% of what it costs to buy the remote audio adapter. That gets my vote if you just want a remote kill switch.
    That's exactly what I was thinking too.

  4. #4
    Old Timer
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    When I hardwired my V1, I got a switch at Radio Shack and wired it in to the 12V line going to the hardwire adapter. I mounted the switch inside the storage nook where I have my concealed display. I can easily turn the V1 on/off this way.
    If I'm passing you on the right, YOU are in the wrong lane!

    If speed kills, how come I'm still alive?

    Active Countermeasures: V1 3.858, Escort Redline, Beltronics STi-R+, LI Dual 7.1x CPU/8.7 Heads (front)
    Other/Backup Countermeasures: V1 3.813 (loaned to friend), Beltronics Pro RX65 M4 6.3
    Vehicle: 2002 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kpatz
    When I hardwired my V1, I got a switch at Radio Shack and wired it in to the 12V line going to the hardwire adapter.
    Is that the tap wire you ran the switch into?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by nomotickets
    Is that the tap wire you ran the switch into?
    Yep. I simply cut the red wire (the one with the inline fuse), crimped on connectors that fit the switch terminals, and plugged them into the back of the switch. Mount the switch, and voila.
    If I'm passing you on the right, YOU are in the wrong lane!

    If speed kills, how come I'm still alive?

    Active Countermeasures: V1 3.858, Escort Redline, Beltronics STi-R+, LI Dual 7.1x CPU/8.7 Heads (front)
    Other/Backup Countermeasures: V1 3.813 (loaned to friend), Beltronics Pro RX65 M4 6.3
    Vehicle: 2002 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro
    LEO Toys: Kustom Pro Laser II & III
    Encounters/Saves August 2011: Radar 3/1, Laser 0/0


  7. #7
    Good Citizen
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    Quote Originally Posted by kpatz
    Quote Originally Posted by nomotickets
    Is that the tap wire you ran the switch into?
    Yep. I simply cut the red wire (the one with the inline fuse), crimped on connectors that fit the switch terminals, and plugged them into the back of the switch. Mount the switch, and voila.
    :idea: Sounds like a plan! Thanks kpatz! Guess I'll be headin up to the RadShack at lunch.

  8. #8
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    I have my V1 connected up with the Blinder switch.
    So once I 've started up "The Monkey flicks the switch!" Bingo.

    But one bad thing is when I get hit by laser I switch the M20 off and my V1 goes off too. :roll: But hey you can't have everything.

  9. #9
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    Sure you can.
    I have my master switch, then another switch off of that for just the blinder.



 

 

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