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  1. #1
    Speed Demon
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    Default In-line On/Off Switch

    I'm looking for an in-line on/off switch so I can quickly turn off my V1 without reaching or noticable motion (mainly to avoid Spectres).

    I used to have a telephone cord with a ringer on/off switch, which I think would have worked, but haven't been able to find another one in any local stores. Does anyone know if that ringer on/off switch would work, and/or where to find one?

  2. #2
    Yoda of Radar
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    Default

    You can simply wire any kind of switch inline with the wire. Ideally your car would have a couple extra "blanks" where switches for fancy stuff goes (like A/C or something) and get an A/C switch from a junk car, hardwire the V1 and cut the positive or neg of the wire and solder it to the switch.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: In-line On/Off Switch

    Quote Originally Posted by o2bad455
    I'm looking for an in-line on/off switch so I can quickly turn off my V1 without reaching or noticable motion (mainly to avoid Spectres).
    I've been planning this as well. Sadly I've over engineered my "spec" which as all but halted my progress. Any simple switch will do, but I wanted more. I found nice "auto" style switch with an LED that lights up when the switch is on. Radio Shack has them, but I also some them at Action Auto parts. The auto style has very roundled edges and a large flange to cover up imperfections in the hole where its mounted.

    I wanted to have the LED on when the power to the V1 is off as a reminder that the V1 is in the non-default state. Its really not a huge issue as I'm not likely to forget the V1 is off. But I thought it would more simple that it turned out to be.

    If this was a double pole switch, it would be a piece of cake. But since its single pole my design will require an addtional relay that is double pole. I can hardly believe that I can't find a switch that is double pole and has an LED, plus looks good on a car. I also wanted a second switch for overriding the AUX power switch for some devices. I have an open spot on the lower dash for switches that is a tad too small for two mounting switches stacked. I could cut the hole, but since there are other problems with the switches, I will keep shopping. There's a pretty large electronic parts place down town Seattle which I've been try to make it to. Unfortunately they are only open during regular business hours so that makes it more difficult.

  4. #4
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    Default

    I am inquireing into an auto auto-off switch, my car has a switch to control the traction control, default is always on, unless I manually select to disengage the system (I get a warning indicator on the gauges) and reengages automaticly the next time I start the car. So I have an extra slot for a similar switch I was wondering if I too can modify it so as to unpon exiting (power off) the car, to always turn off, next time I enter the car, I manually turn on the switch after I start the car. Of course I can alway manually toggle on and off at will when ever I want. If I complete this project will post.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by amoney
    I am inquireing into an auto auto-off switch, my car has a switch to control the traction control, default is always on, unless I manually select to disengage the system (I get a warning indicator on the gauges) and reengages automaticly the next time I start the car.
    You just gave me an idea. If you can tap into the power that lights up the "traction control=OFF" light, you could power a double through (DT) relay. The power to the V1 would connect to the "off side" of the relay, so when the relay is unpowered, the V1 is powered. But when the traction control is disabled (dash light on), the v1 is shut off. It would allow to levage the traction control switch making the switch fully stealthy. The tricky part, is finding the power to the traction control light. In fact is probably on a printed circuit board deep inside the gauge cluster.

    This also assumes (and this is not a safe assumption for performance vehicles) that you don't mind powering off the V1 when you disable traction control. I think I just talked myself out of this option. However I have an number of other things that could work. My day time running lights shut off when the E-Brake is pulled. Also my auto dimming mirror has an led which should be easy to get to. I'll take another look at all the switches and see if there is something I can leverage.

  6. #6
    Yoda of Radar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gregor
    My day time running lights shut off when the E-Brake is pulled. Also my auto dimming mirror has an led which should be easy to get to. I'll take another look at all the switches and see if there is something I can leverage.
    Smashing idea. When i get myself a laserjammer I'm going to wire the main power through the switch on the handbrake and wire the alert light to an unused idiot light on the dash. When you see the choke light come on nail the brakes then pull up on the handbrake 1 click. 8)

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregor
    day time running lights shut off when the E-Brake is pulled
    Ooooooo, that is another great idea. I did not really catch the problem with the traction control switch, that is a great idea you came up with, for me I have an extra empty switch right next to the TC switch, actually I have two extra all side by side, for options like fog lights and I forget the other option, so anyways, I was going to go to Handa and get another switch. But your method just combining the function of one switch for two things. The snag I guess you may have been implying is having the TC disabled in order to then power the RD. Although I dont care much for the TC system, but on occasion it is nice knowing when it kicks on in the heavy weather.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by amoney
    The snag I guess you may have been implying is having the TC disabled in order to then power the RD.
    Actually its just the oposite. I was assuming you run with the TC most of the time and turn it off only occassionally. The TC problem is if you have a need to disable it on a regular basis, you DON'T want to have your V1 status tied to the TC.

    I'm thinking about the scenario where you shut off the TC on a mountain road so you can drive in a spirited manner. Obviously you don't want your V1 shut off.

    As I mentioned there are a likely a few other circuits/devices that behave in the same manner.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gregor
    Quote Originally Posted by amoney
    The snag I guess you may have been implying is having the TC disabled in order to then power the RD.
    Actually its just the oposite. I was assuming you run with the TC most of the time and turn it off only occassionally. The TC problem is if you have a need to disable it on a regular basis, you DON'T want to have your V1 status tied to the TC.

    I'm thinking about the scenario where you shut off the TC on a mountain road so you can drive in a spirited manner. Obviously you don't want your V1 shut off.

    As I mentioned there are a likely a few other circuits/devices that behave in the same manner.
    HA!

    I was thinking the opposite, by turning off the TC thus enabling the the RD... but then I not quite sure what goes into a switch like this, sure your probably right. I understand now. Anyway I have the option to easily add another factory OEM switch right beside it, so I will obviously go that route.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmaartAasSaabr
    You can simply wire any kind of switch inline with the wire. Ideally your car would have a couple extra "blanks" where switches for fancy stuff goes (like A/C or something) and get an A/C switch from a junk car, hardwire the V1 and cut the positive or neg of the wire and solder it to the switch.


    Sorry Bro but I can't let this go by........ :wink:

    Maybe those Old Beat Up Saabs you love don't have A/C, but the rest of us that drive real cars have A/C......... :wink:
    Heck Econo Buckets like a Cavalier come with A/C.
    I guess that's "Fancy Stuff" in a Saab.......

 

 

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