Hardwiring my V1

**dpizz450** · 07-31-2013, 07:26 PM

I've had my v1 for several years, but have never done a hardwire install. I said for years I would do it when I got a new truck. I finally got a new truck. 2013 f150 crew cab lariat if anyone cared.

I bought the direct wire kit from valentine and I bought a add a circuit from the auto parts store. The add a circuit is a 10amp max. Is that to low? I hooked everything up to an unused 10amp circuit in my fuse box. No power. I thought I had a bad ground, but I tried another ground. Still no power. What am I doing wrong?

**NLThor** · 07-31-2013, 09:45 PM

I had the same issue when I hard wired mine. Triple check your ground, thought mine was good to, I actually ended up having to use a screw I drilled into the door jamb of my car. It has worked fine ever since. That is the only thing I can think of. Maybe post pics of your install and see if anyone else on here may be able to spot something. May wanna try a different circuit as well, I believe mine in hooked up my radio fuse? If I remember correctly, something I knew had power.

**chickendriver** · 08-01-2013, 10:42 AM

Instead of a add-a-circuit why don't you use the hardwire kit that came with the V1 and just tap into the auto-dimming mirror power? Lariat has that feature, right? There will very likely be a good ground up there for the mirror and nearby electronics you can easily utilize. ?

**dpizz450** · 08-01-2013, 10:44 AM

Originally Posted by chickendriver

Instead of a add-a-circuit why don't you use the hardwire kit that came with the V1 and just tap into the auto-dimming mirror power? Lariat has that feature, right? There will very likely be a good ground up there for the mirror and nearby electronics you can easily utilize. ?

I would rather not strip a wire on my brand new $40k truck. Not to mention they would probably void my warranty over that.

**chickendriver** · 08-01-2013, 11:15 AM

Originally Posted by dpizz450

Originally Posted by chickendriver

Instead of a add-a-circuit why don't you use the hardwire kit that came with the V1 and just tap into the auto-dimming mirror power? Lariat has that feature, right? There will very likely be a good ground up there for the mirror and nearby electronics you can easily utilize. ?

I would rather not strip a wire on my brand new $40k truck. Not to mention they would probably void my warranty over that.

You don't have to strip a wire. . . Did your V1 not come with the little red wire coupler (my term) deal? Doesn't matter if your truck was 400k$, that wire is only $0.4 so don't stress. The ground would be in the form of a screw likely, but have a look up there and see what's available. Add-a-circuit if they saw it would void a larger portion of you warrranty IMO than simply tying into the mirror. --> The fuse block is a root for many electronics in the vehicle, while the mirror is, well, the mirror. One nice thing about tying in that way is that you don't have to worry about routing your wire all over.

Just like anything, hide the wire, reverse the install if there are issues with the mirror or electrical stuff, just like you would (or should) if your add a circuit were installed. .02 Good luck.

**dpizz450** · 08-01-2013, 04:56 PM

Originally Posted by chickendriver

Originally Posted by dpizz450

Originally Posted by chickendriver

Instead of a add-a-circuit why don't you use the hardwire kit that came with the V1 and just tap into the auto-dimming mirror power? Lariat has that feature, right? There will very likely be a good ground up there for the mirror and nearby electronics you can easily utilize. ?

I would rather not strip a wire on my brand new $40k truck. Not to mention they would probably void my warranty over that.

You don't have to strip a wire. . . Did your V1 not come with the little red wire coupler (my term) deal? Doesn't matter if your truck was 400k$, that wire is only $0.4 so don't stress. The ground would be in the form of a screw likely, but have a look up there and see what's available. Add-a-circuit if they saw it would void a larger portion of you warrranty IMO than simply tying into the mirror. --> The fuse block is a root for many electronics in the vehicle, while the mirror is, well, the mirror. One nice thing about tying in that way is that you don't have to worry about routing your wire all over.

Just like anything, hide the wire, reverse the install if there are issues with the mirror or electrical stuff, just like you would (or should) if your add a circuit were installed. .02 Good luck.

Yeah, it came with that piece, but I thought I had to strip a mirror wire and tie into it. I cut off that piece and added the add a fuse in its place. I could always take the add a fuse off and put the original piece back on.

How do I tap into the wire? Anyone have a link or video?

**chickendriver** · 08-02-2013, 11:18 AM

I don't have a link, but the little red piece has a little piece of metal in it that breaks the insulation to tie into whatever wire you put in it. Basically, you put the wire in, then with pliers you squeeze the metal piece into the donor wire, then you close the little flap over it after all is "crimped" together. You don't have to cut, strip or solder any original wire. Pretty benign, really.

Have a look up there and see if there are decent grounding options and space to put the little bit that has the two phone jacks (power adapter?) up there. It takes less space than you'd imagine. I never thought I'd have enough room in my car, but I did. With the excess cord, I just kept it wrapped up like the factory had it, and twistied together.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/FT0wtZMgG1M?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> that should work out

**chickendriver** · 08-02-2013, 11:18 AM

the little BLUE (memory, its been a while) piece has a little piece of metal in it that breaks the insulation to tie into whatever wire you put in it. Basically, you put the wire in, then with pliers you squeeze the metal piece into the donor wire, then you close the little flap over it after all is "crimped" together. You don't have to cut, strip or solder any original wire. Pretty benign, really.

Have a look up there and see if there are decent grounding options and space to put the little bit that has the two phone jacks (power adapter?) up there. It takes less space than you'd imagine. I never thought I'd have enough room in my car, but I did. With the excess cord, I just kept it wrapped up like the factory had it, and twistied together.

that should work out