Duration of standard MUTE on 9500i?

[RadarKid]

CJ you can probably answer this better than most...but since it happened again this AM and its fresh in my mind...here it goes..

Can you explain the standard MUTE duration on the 9500i? I've had quite a few situations where I've been stumped. How long does a band/frequency stay stored after a mute?

Example: I'll have a false in Kband drive me nuts as I'm passing, and hit the MUTE button once for a standard mute. I'll clear out of the area, and the signal will be gone for quite some time, then encounter an LEO also running Kband, and it'll show - but completely MUTE the signal also. (This can work either way, when muting an original LEO or False, then having it continue to mute something else). This sucks because unless you happen to be looking at the display when the new alert starts, you have no idea he's there. I understand that it must see it as a close frequency of the same band and include it as part of your enitial MUTE....but for how long? Its VERY frustrating that even the standard mute button can screw you, let alone TrueLock.

So the real question is...how does it, and how long does it store that MUTED signal? Is it an ammount of time that has to pass before it gets another similar signal? Or is it distance from the last signal of it? If so...how long, or how far is this before it clears?

[CJR238]

CJ you can probably answer this better than most...but since it happened again this AM and its fresh in my mind...here it goes..

Can you explain the standard MUTE duration on the 9500i? I've had quite a few situations where I've been stumped. How long does a band/frequency stay stored after a mute?

Example: I'll have a false in Kband drive me nuts as I'm passing, and hit the MUTE button once for a standard mute. I'll clear out of the area, and the signal will be gone for quite some time, then encounter an LEO also running Kband, and it'll show - but completely MUTE the signal also. (This can work either way, when muting an original LEO or False, then having it continue to mute something else). This sucks because unless you happen to be looking at the display when the new alert starts, you have no idea he's there. I understand that it must see it as a close frequency of the same band and include it as part of your enitial MUTE....but for how long? Its VERY frustrating that even the standard mute button can screw you, let alone TrueLock.

So the real question is...how does it, and how long does it store that MUTED signal? Is it an ammount of time that has to pass before it gets another similar signal? Or is it distance from the last signal of it? If so...how long, or how far is this before it clears?

Standard mute certainly has to do with time, maybe a 1 second lag for the signal to pass after original alert is not shown, however it has never been a problem for me.
In my cases it has come in handy for similar falses close to each other that have a short break between them, certainly less than a second for me and never a real LEO.

[RadarKid]

Standard mute certainly has to do with time, maybe a 1 second lag for the signal to pass after original alert is not shown, however it has never been a problem for me.
In my cases it has come in handy for similar falses close to each other that have a short break between them, certainly less than a second for me and never a real LEO.

unfortunately, I've seen it happen much longer than a second or two after an alert. like at least a minute or two after the detector stops alerting.

[MEM-TEK]

unfortunately, I've seen it happen much longer than a second or two after an alert. like at least a minute or two after the detector stops alerting.

Try resetting the firmware on your 9500i. A power glitch or even a strong cosmic ray could have corrupted the stored settings. A reset will fix this.

[RadarKid]

Try resetting the firmware on your 9500i. A power glitch or even a strong cosmic ray could have corrupted the stored settings. A reset will fix this.

its brand new though. maybe a month or two old I think.
Is it possible its really messed up already? What would I have to do to reset it, and what would have kind of "cosmic ray" would've screwed it up?

[CJR238]

unfortunately, I've seen it happen much longer than a second or two after an alert. like at least a minute or two after the detector stops alerting.

Man you seem to get all the worse scenarios. :) If I didn’t know better I would think you were deliberately trying to be negative and making up bad scenarios.:)

A minute is way to long, if you can video it for us that might help us understand because it doesn’t do it that long, there would have to be something wrong with your unit or a very unlikely scenario.

Do you use Expert mode?

[RadarKid]

Man you seem to get all the worse scenarios. :) If I didn’t know better I would think you were deliberately trying to be negative and making up bad scenarios.:)

A minute is way to long, if you can video it for us that might help us understand because it doesn’t do it that long, there would have to be something wrong with your unit or a very unlikely scenario.

Do you use Expert mode?

Yes, I always use expert mode since I got the 9500i.
I never use to with my X50.

Hell no I don't make up bad scenarios. I wouldnt be frustrated if it was me TRYING to dupe it. It's everyday situations that frustrate me. Its been just another disappointment.
I have several. TrueLock being the biggest, but the AutoMute and AutoVolume are sketchy. Sometimes they work as noted....sometimes they don't. At times when I've muted one signal, and a second one pops up, it'll say "Multiple Threats detected" and override the mute...but others, a new signal will pop up and remain muted. Sometimes AutoMute will "automute" a signal that is gaining intensity, and mute it at a full blast alert. From what I've been told by Escort, its not supposed to do that at all...only on alerts that are weak, or weakening. There's times when automute never kicks in on falses that are weak and weakening. It just continues to give a weak alert with no AutoMute.

As for the AutoVolume, I've never noticed a difference and have tested it with windows up, down, radio loud and quiet etc. The Marked Location is worthless to me because its only on a radius marker, nothing to do with the roads you're on when marked. Therefore you constantly get alerts when you're nowhere near heading to the marked location.

I don't have a camera set up in my car like some people I've seen, so to catch it on the occasions when a standard MUTE carries over to new signals up to a minute after the last one cleared would be difficult.

I probably exagerated on the 2minute quote, but I'd be willing to bet its been up to a minute before when I've had that happen. Is there a SET amount of time its supposed to be? i.e. - 30 seconds?

[MEM-TEK]

its brand new though. maybe a month or two old I think.
Is it possible its really messed up already? What would I have to do to reset it, and what would have kind of "cosmic ray" would've screwed it up?

I rarely use the mute button on my 9500i and instead use AutoMute. Today though I will test how long my 9500i stays muted after I hit mute and the alert ends.

I don't think that your RD is messed up, but a reset never hurts. To reset your 9500i (and also see what its firmware version is), power off your 9500i using its power button. Then hold down both the SEN and BRT buttons and while holding these buttons down, press the power button. Stop holding down the SEN and BRT buttons when "RESET" is displayed.

Cosmic rays are hard radiation which comes from mainly from our sun but also from outer space. Our atmosphere stops most cosmic rays. A strong cosmic ray hitting a computer memory chip or an EEPROM can corrupt the memory. It would have to be a rare and really strong cosmic ray to corrupt the memory in a radar detector, so a cosmic ray strike to a RD's memory which causes a problem really would be a once in a blue moon sort of thing.

The one thing which can cause the memory to get corrupted is a sudden voltage fluctuation while the RD is powering up. This can occur if you let your RD turn on while starting your car. I always power on my RD after starting my car, and always power off my RD before shutting off my car. I also let my RDs go through the standard power-up sequence rather than using the quick power-up sequence. Why? If somehow your RD's memory gets corrupted which requires a reset, then usually the standard power-up sequence will be weird. Examples are that the power-up sequence may show a radar band to be off, LASER might never display, there might be no audio from the speaker, et cetera.

If you like the convenience of letting your RD power up when you start your car and if you have hard wired your RD, then at least tap the power into one of the higher amperage fuse terminals in your fuse box. Why? The higher amperage terminals have heavier wires which run to your car's alternator and battery.

[RadarKid]

I rarely use the mute button on my 9500i and instead use AutoMute. Today though I will test how long my 9500i stays muted after I hit mute and the alert ends.

I don't think that your RD is messed up, but a reset never hurts. To reset your 9500i (and also see what its firmware version is), power off your 9500i using its power button. Then hold down both the SEN and BRT buttons and while holding these buttons down, press the power button. Stop holding down the SEN and BRT buttons when "RESET" is displayed.

Cosmic rays are hard radiation which comes from mainly from our sun but also from outer space. Our atmosphere stops most cosmic rays. A strong cosmic ray hitting a computer memory chip or an EEPROM can corrupt the memory. It would have to be a rare and really strong cosmic ray to corrupt the memory in a radar detector, so a cosmic ray strike to a RD's memory which causes a problem really would be a once in a blue moon sort of thing.

The one thing which can cause the memory to get corrupted is a sudden voltage fluctuation while the RD is powering up. This can occur if you let your RD turn on while starting your car. I always power on my RD after starting my car, and always power off my RD before shutting off my car. I also let my RDs go through the standard power-up sequence rather than using the quick power-up sequence. Why? If somehow your RD's memory gets corrupted which requires a reset, then usually the standard power-up sequence will be weird. Examples are that the power-up sequence may show a radar band to be off, LASER might never display, there might be no audio from the speaker, et cetera.

If you like the convenience of letting your RD power up when you start your car and if you have hard wired your RD, then at least tap the power into one of the higher amperage fuse terminals in your fuse box. Why? The higher amperage terminals have heavier wires which run to your car's alternator and battery.

because its hardwired, and I always remove it for security and to avoid overheating in the sun..I often have started the car before I plug power into the detector, however I always unplug it before shutting the car off. is this a bad habit?

[CJR238]

I would personally allow the hardwire to power it up.

[MEM-TEK]

because its hardwired, and I always remove it for security and to avoid overheating in the sun..I often have started the car before I plug power into the detector, however I always unplug it before shutting the car off. is this a bad habit?

This is what I do too, but I always power off my RD before unplugging it. Of course, then I have to power it back on after I plug it back in. I was very busy and forgot to test my 9500i to see how long alerts are muted after pressing the mute button. I will try to remember to test this tomorrow (Friday).

[RadarKid]

Hey Memtek

This AM I pulled into a parking lot which holds a coffee shop and BJ's store. With my original 9500i I had this location locked out..but now I don't use the TrueLock for obvious reasons.

Now when I pull in for my AM coffee, I pop the standard mute button when the BJ's auto doors start to alert Kband. This AM I did this as usual. I got my coffee through the drivethru (i.e. - never shut down the detector) and then left the parking lot. This time was probably still within the 30second period, maybe not...but as I sat at the light I noticed a LEO charger heading down the road towards me. My detector read a strengthening Kband alert. These chargers carry strong Kband radar. As my light turned green I took a left turn and was heading directly towards the LEO. As he approached and we passed eachother, my display showed a MAX alert of K band and was holding it, yet still not a peep of audio. I'm so pissed that even the standard mute doesnt function as it should. Shouldnt it void the original mute if A - a different band or frequency comes in, or B - if the signal is strengthening to full alert? The detector didnt even show 2 sources of K. Just 1 and it fully blocked out an audio alert for the Charger.

[MEM-TEK]

Well, I have completed a quick round of various tests to see how the 9500i acts after you mute an alert. Guess what? Muting is tied to the GPS location where you hit the mute button! Anyway, here are my results...

GPS icon ON:

I muted an X band alert. I then triggered my K band gun and instantly the RD un-muted itself since K band is perceived as a higher threat than X band. I then triggered my X band gun again and found that X too was un-muted.

I muted a K band alert. I then triggered my X band gun and found that the X band alert was muted as well since X band is perceived as a lower threat than K band. I then immediately triggered my K band gun and found of course that K band was still muted.

I muted an X band alert and waited for over 5 minutes. I then triggered my X band gun again and found that X band was still muted.

GPS icon OFF:

I muted an X band alert. I then triggered my K band gun and instantly the RD un-muted itself since K band is perceived as a higher threat than X band. I then triggered my X band gun again and found that X too was un-muted.

I muted a K band alert. I then triggered my X band gun and found that the X band alert was muted as well since X band is perceived as a lower threat than K band. I then immediately triggered my K band gun and found of course that K band was still muted.

I muted an X band alert. The 9500i un-muted itself approximately 20 seconds after receiving no additional signal. After 20 seconds I triggered my X band gun again and the 9500i was un-muted and alerted with audio. I repeated this test with my K band gun.

So, here are my conclusions:

A received "more threatening" signal will instantly un-mute all radar bands. Bel's and Escort's order of more threatening bands is X, K, Ka and Laser.

If GPS is ON, then the 9500i obviously will only un-mute itself after you have muted a particular band alert if you drive some distance away from the GPS location where you hit the mute button. I haven't performed any tests to see what the needed distance is.

If GPS is ON and you mute a radar signal on one particular band, then the 9500i will instantly un-mute itself only if it detects radar on a "more threatening" band. If you mute an X band alert, then the 9500i will un-mute when detecting K or Ka band signals. If you mute a K band alert, then the 9500i will continue to mute a less threatening X band signal yet will un-mute itself when detecting a Ka band signal.

If GPS is OFF then the 9500i un-mutes itself after not detecting any signal for approximately 20 seconds. Otherwise any received "more threatening" signal within this 20 second period will instantly un-mute all radar bands.


So, there you have it! :D

[RadarKid]

Well, I have completed a quick round of various tests to see how the 9500i acts after you mute an alert. Guess what? Muting is tied to the GPS location where you hit the mute button! Anyway, here are my results...

GPS icon ON:

I muted an X band alert. I then triggered my K band gun and instantly the RD un-muted itself since K band is perceived as a higher threat than X band. I then triggered my X band gun again and found that X too was un-muted.

I muted a K band alert. I then triggered my X band gun and found that the X band alert was muted as well since X band is perceived as a lower threat than K band. I then immediately triggered my K band gun and found of course that K band was still muted.

I muted an X band alert and waited for over 5 minutes. I then triggered my X band gun again and found that X band was still muted.

GPS icon OFF:

I muted an X band alert. I then triggered my K band gun and instantly the RD un-muted itself since K band is perceived as a higher threat than X band. I then triggered my X band gun again and found that X too was un-muted.

I muted a K band alert. I then triggered my X band gun and found that the X band alert was muted as well since X band is perceived as a lower threat than K band. I then immediately triggered my K band gun and found of course that K band was still muted.

I muted an X band alert. The 9500i un-muted itself approximately 20 seconds after receiving no additional signal. After 20 seconds I triggered my X band gun again and the 9500i was un-muted and alerted with audio. I repeated this test with my K band gun.

So, here are my conclusions:

A received "more threatening" signal will instantly un-mute all radar bands. Bel's and Escort's order of more threatening bands is X, K, Ka and Laser.

If GPS is ON, then the 9500i obviously will only un-mute itself after you have muted a particular band alert if you drive some distance away from the GPS location where you hit the mute button. I haven't performed any tests to see what the needed distance is.

If GPS is ON and you mute a radar signal on one particular band, then the 9500i will instantly un-mute itself only if it detects radar on a "more threatening" band. If you mute an X band alert, then the 9500i will un-mute when detecting K or Ka band signals. If you mute a K band alert, then the 9500i will continue to mute a less threatening X band signal yet will un-mute itself when detecting a Ka band signal.

If GPS is OFF then the 9500i un-mutes itself after not detecting any signal for approximately 20 seconds. Otherwise any received "more threatening" signal within this 20 second period will instantly un-mute all radar bands.


So, there you have it! :D

Great...so the GPS function is absolutely useless then aside from watching your speed. The mark location is useless since it doesnt track the path but only radius. The TrueLock has its problems with locking out LEOs just like this. So I bought a new 9500i to replace my X50 and the "upgrades" of it are useless. thats sad.

So in my situation, I mute a low level Kband alert, and because I havent traveled far enough from the source of the false, my detector continues to mute out a different frequency Kband rapidly climbing in strength till its maxed from an LEO without a peep. As I've said, this has happened many times where I happen to realize its still muting after a false muted and an LEO approaches or vice versa. Gee...what do you think TrueLock would've done in the same situation!?
I lose appreciation for Escorts "i" daily. Perhaps it should've been called the 9500R.

Someone could in all probability pass a known false that is weak signal. Pop the standard mute to shut off the audio...drive past that false and approach an LEO waiting for prey behind the next turn and although the display shows a FULL ON alert from the LEO...you have NO IDEA unless you happen to be watching the display. Ridiculous. There's probably been "no reported tickets" for this either...but I wonder how many have actually had it happen and had no idea.

The way you measure the value of a detector is how well you can TRUST it. A user TRUSTING TrueLock or even the standard MUTE now in these situations could easily find themselves with a ticket for trusting that their detector would've still warned them of a legit threat.

[MEM-TEK]

So in my situation, I mute a low level Kband alert, and because I havent traveled far enough from the source of the false, my detector continues to mute out a different frequency Kband rapidly climing in strength till its maxed from an LEO without a peep. As I've said, this has happened many times where I happen to realize its still muting after a false muted and an LEO approaches or vice versa. Gee...what do you think TrueLock would've done in the same situation!?
I lose appreciation for Escort daily.

Someone could in all probability pass a known false that is weak signal. Pop the standard mute to shut off the audio...drive past that false and approach an LEO waiting for prey behind the next turn and although the display shows a FULL ON alert from the LEO...you have NO IDEA unless you happen to be watching the display. Ridiculous. There's probably been "no reported tickets" for this either...but I wonder how many have actually had it happen and had no idea.

With nearly every RD model you have to deal with whatever the RD's mute duration is before it un-mutes itself. If another same band radar signal is detected during the mute duration then the RD will remain muted. This situation has happened to me more than a few times with several RDs.

Your simplest solutions are to use AutoMute, which I love to use on all of my RDs, to simply turn the GPS icon off when driving through areas with lots of false alerts which you want to mute out yet where LEOs could be running radar, or don't use the mute button at all in these areas.

[RadarKid]

With nearly every RD model you have to deal with whatever the RD's mute duration is before it un-mutes itself. If another same band radar signal is detected during the mute duration then the RD will remain muted. This situation has happened to me more than a few times with several RDs.

Your simplest solutions are to use AutoMute, which I love to use on all of my RDs, to simply turn the GPS icon off when driving through areas with lots of false alerts which you want to mute out yet where LEOs could be running radar, or don't use the mute button at all in these areas.

as I stated in a different post...AutoMute is sketchy. I've had it mute signals that were gaining intensity (which is what this situation was) and remain muted. escort says anytime theres an increasing threat it'll unmute. Not true.
I've also seen AutoMute mute one band signal, and continue to mute a different band that suddenly pops up without over-riding it.

Sometimes it works...sometimes it doesnt.

[CJR238]

Don’t bother MEM-TEK, RadarKid is the biggest complainer I have ever come across. I’m starting to think that there is no way any of the experiences he has posted actually happened. It’s all an outlet for him to complain about something.
TrueLock is one thing, but he’s complaining about things that no one has ever complained about or that even matter.

Sorry to be so blunt but this is getting ridicules RadarKid, never in my life have i seen someone complain about something so vehemently. Your agenda it to obviously bash the 9500i to no end without coming up with solutions to your problems.


Your 9500I negatives are:

TrueLock doesn’t work
Auto mute doesn’t work
Auto volume
GPS is useless
Suction cups don’t work
Not using TrueLock erases locked locations
Being alerted in a locked location
Poor detection range
good detection range
Now the mute button doesn’t work they way you want.

Who cares about hitting the mute button and it mutes an alert, that’s what its supposed to do. It’s a radar detector not a cop detector.

You need to build your own RD, nothing will ever satisfy you.

[RadarKid]

Don’t bother MEM-TEK, RadarKid is the biggest complainer I have ever come across. I’m starting to think that there is no way any of the experiences he has posted actually happened. It’s all an outlet for him to complain about something.
TrueLock is one thing, but he’s complaining about things that no one has ever complained about or that even matter.

Sorry to be so blunt but this is getting ridicules RadarKid, never in my life have i seen someone complain about something so vehemently. Your agenda it to obviously bash the 9500i to no end without coming up with solutions to your problems.


Your 9500I negatives are:

TrueLock doesn’t work
Auto mute doesn’t work
Auto volume
GPS is useless
Suction cups don’t work
Not using TrueLock erases locked locations
Being alerted in a locked location
Poor detection range
good detection range
Now the mute button doesn’t work they way you want.

Who cares about hitting the mute button and it mutes an alert, that’s what its supposed to do. It’s a radar detector not a cop detector.

You need to build your own RD, nothing will ever satisfy you.



Its a RD forum.......in a Escort section.........all about regarding my 9500i that I use daily. None of the problems I've experienced are legit problems right? If I pay close to $500 for a piece of electronics that promises all that the "i" promises, your damn right I'm going to expect a lot out of it. Any of my compaints you listed are frustrations after buying a "top of the line detector" with all the extra bells and whistles. Unfortunately the bells and whistles don't work as promised.
:lol:

You're funny.

[CJR238]

Its a RD forum.......in a Escort section.........all about regarding my 9500i that I use daily. None of the problems I've experienced are legit problems right? If I pay close to $500 for a piece of electronics that promises all that the "i" promises, your damn right I'm going to expect a lot out of it. Any of my compaints you listed are frustrations after buying a "top of the line detector" with all the extra bells and whistles. Unfortunately the bells and whistles don't work as promised.
:lol:

You're funny.

I appreciate you taking it the right way. :)

You are right, they are just bells and whistles, and therefore they should be taken as seriously as a bell or whistle.

Keep in mind people’s perception of a promise may be different than what it is in reality. Just because we expect something doesn’t mean thats the way it works.

[CJR238]

As far a mute.
It’s based on the logic that when you hit mute you want it quiet for that area/alert-s.
There is no way for any RD to know if its a LEO or a false so they have to assume the user will have some common sense and think that if i just hit mute im not going to here alerts anymore till im away form the area i muted, so I will drive cautiously.

Mute is mute, not LEO selective muting.

And this is why I like Expert mode with voice alerts on, it allows for a better chance of being alerted when muting.

[RadarKid]

And this is why I like Expert mode with voice alerts on, it allows for a better chance of being alerted when muting.

wow after saying I shouldnt be so bothered by my frustrations of the "bells and whistles" expert mode - which I always run unless looking for spec frequencies, has on several occasions refused to vocally note "multiple frequencies" and UNMUTE..but instead remains muted throughout the new alert.

guess I'd learn to appreciate these functions you appreciate if they always worked as you describe they do for you. in my case I see their failures to do what they SAY they do and therefore lose appreciation for them.

:banghead:

[CJR238]

wow after saying I shouldnt be so bothered by my frustrations of the "bells and whistles" expert mode - which I always run unless looking for spec frequencies, has on several occasions refused to vocally note "multiple frequencies" and UNMUTE..but instead remains muted throughout the new alert.

guess I'd learn to appreciate these functions you appreciate if they always worked as you describe they do for you. in my case I see their failures to do what they SAY they do and therefore lose appreciation for them.

:banghead:

That’s the thing, none of it is perfect. Using mute is fine, but if your looking for perfection you will never get it, the problem your going to have is basically all RD's work this way. Muting is something like 80% of the time it will alert to a new signal, and Expert mode increases those chances verbally.

I just happen to be very lucky because all the frequency’s i encounter on a day to day basis are ether totally different bands or more than 30MHz apart, and this is in most areas. Your area seems to be the opposite.

I have put tens of thousands of miles on my 9500Is so i have seen it all, and most cases all the bells and whistles work just fine. Doing what i need to do 90% of the time is expectable to me, and that’s pretty much how everything in the world works. The only thing you can count on 100% is that you will dye some day and taxes.

[RadarKid]

That’s the thing, none of it is perfect. Using mute is fine, but if your looking for perfection you will never get it, the problem your going to have is basically all RD's work this way. Muting is something like 80% of the time it will alert to a new signal, and Expert mode increases those chances verbally.
I just happen to be very lucky because all the frequency’s i encounter on a day to day basis are ether totally different bands or more than 30MHz apart.
I have put tens of thousands of miles on my 9500Is so i have seen it all, and most cases all the bells and whistles work just fine. Doing what i need to do 90% of the time is expectable to me, and that’s pretty much how everything in the world works. The only thing you can count on 100% is that you will dye some day and taxes.


That's DIE not DYE.
And you do realize you have an excuse for every example of failure that I've encountered, right? Someone may also say you have excuses for everything...as much as they'd say I complain about everything eh...
:rolleyes:

Good for you you only experience LEOs in different bands and more than 30MHZ apart. The rest of us who don't will fall into my category. The majority of falses in my area are Kband..and the majority of the LEO's are Kband...only occasionally Ka. The K doors seem to fall close to the LEO frequencies...so the detector I have really does nothing for me that others couldnt, and in turn puts me at risk using the features.

So what we're left with is....I can either shut off all its extra features (the very reasons I/people choose the 9500i)...and listen to it go off all the time....or get another detector with higher sensitivity and hear it go off all the time. Hmmmmmm

[CJR238]

That's DIE not DYE.
And you do realize you have an excuse for every example of failure that I've encountered, right? Someone may also say you have excuses for everything...as much as they'd say I complain about everything eh...
:rolleyes:

Good for you you only experience LEOs in different bands and more than 30MHZ apart. The rest of us who don't will fall into my category. The majority of falses in my area are Kband..and the majority of the LEO's are Kband...only occasionally Ka. The K doors seem to fall close to the LEO frequencies...so the detector I have really does nothing for me that others couldnt, and in turn puts me at risk using the features.

So what we're left with is....I can either shut off all its extra features (the very reasons I/people choose the 9500i)...and listen to it go off all the time....or get another detector with higher sensitivity and hear it go off all the time. Hmmmmmm

The reason i have an excuse is because every case is different and there is always an answer to every problem. I don’t just choose to give up, and thats why i still love my 9500i.

You forgot the other choice i mentioned. You have stated that you drive responsibly most of the time. So why don’t you use TrueLock when doing so and with friends in the car. But when you’re driving aggressively turn the GPS filter off for full awareness.
Your just looking at this the wrong way, be happy you have a RD that does what it does and you can turn it on and of to according to your needs. This is exactly what i do in "High Risk" areas that the falses and LEO's are running the same band.

[RadarKid]

The reason i have an excuse is because every case is different and there is always an answer to every problem. I don’t just choose to give up, and thats why i still love my 9500i.

You forgot the other choice i mentioned. You have stated that you drive responsibly most of the time. So why don’t you use TrueLock when doing so and with friends in the car. But when you’re driving aggressively turn the GPS filter off for full awareness.
Your just looking at this the wrong way, be happy you have a RD that does what it does and you can turn it on and of to according to your needs. This is exactly what i do in "High Risk" areas that the falses and LEO's are running the same band.

because I don't EVER want to take a chance of locking out or having a LEO missed. I bought a detector to know they're there...with the exception of only missing them when they DO NOT HAVE RADAR on. anytime my $500 detector misses them when they're running radar...REGARDLESS OF THE REASON...

its unacceptable to me.

[CJR238]

because I don't EVER want to take a chance of locking out or having a LEO missed. I bought a detector to know they're there...with the exception of only missing them when they DO NOT HAVE RADAR on. anytime my $500 detector misses them when they're running radar...REGARDLESS OF THE REASON...

its unacceptable to me.

Than you’re stuck with noise and will never truly be satisfied with any RD or feature. Except for maybe the V1, but that’s a hole other can of worms.

Its just odd that you have had RD's for years yet seem to know very little about how they are just an imperfect tool.

[MEM-TEK]

Guys, I will put it another way. The market won't bear the price of a nearly perfect dash mounted radar detector. Such a radar detector would have to sell for at least $800 to $1000 due to development and production costs. Not only that, many very good ideas and rather unique patents are split across the top three patent holders in the RD industry, namely Bel/Escort, Whistler and Valentine. There isn't a snowball's chance in Hades that these companies would combine resources and share patents in order to produce virtually perfect dash mount RDs since they would only sell to an extremely small niche market of specific buyers who both could afford them and appreciate the features and benefits, and since such products would hurt sales of existing RD models since the general public would assume that sometime in the near future new less expensive models would be produced with many of the "perfect" RD's features. The current products are designed and manufactured at price points which the consumer market will bear.

Until consumers get away from letting price be their major purchasing factor rather than quality, features, and product reliability being the deciding factors, then this will never change. It wasn't this way 40 years ago. Back then product quality was everything, the US economy was over 50% manufacturing, and America both manufactured and sold products worldwide. But not today. Almost all of the products we buy are cheaply manufactured overseas. Another way of looking at it -- most consumers are uneducated idiots, and today's consumer products across the board generally are both cheaply produced and considered to be "throw-away" items.

Well, thats my first little rant in quite a while. Sorry, but I am kind of tired after being outside in the heat all afternoon installing my 9500ci. I don't trust any of the installers in my rinky-dink town as far as I could throw them since I've seen their work. I stopped by one install shop and asked if I could purchase some flame retardant split wrap flexible wire conduit. They didn't even know what I was talking about. What a joke.

[TSi+WRX]

^ FWIW, MEM-TEK, I agree with your rant. :) Just wanted you to know that it's not all on deaf ears, and at least one person agrees with you. :p

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Oh, and BTW, DIY FTW.

[CJR238]

^ FWIW, MEM-TEK, I agree with your rant. :) Just wanted you to know that it's not all on deaf ears, and at least one person agrees with you. :p

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Oh, and BTW, DIY FTW.

I didn't even realize it was a rant.:p

[djrams80]

I didn't even realize it was a rant.:pYeah, pretty weak as rants go. :D I give it 2 stars. :p