Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
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Originally Posted by
jiggly
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Originally Posted by
kpatz
The key to successful laser jamming is finesse, not brute force.
Your return pulses don't have to be stronger than the gun's; in fact, they can be weaker. Consider that the gun has to read a reflected signal off your car, while your jammer heads are sending a signal direct to the gun.
So, before going crazy with lots of power, work on the timing of the pulses. Get yourself a nice high-bandwidth dual (or more) trace scope, so you can compare your head's pulses to those coming off the Blinder, and see how much delay/phase shift/loss you're getting through your wires/driver circuits.
I agree with the above.
For this you need an A/D system ie. Labview to collect data... a computer based ocilloscope...
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
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Originally Posted by
ATF
Quote:
Originally Posted by
fulcrum
Laserguns use avalange photodiode based receivers, expensive but ideal for precise timing. In a jammer 'normal' photo diodes are the logical choice.
Avalanche :D
You stepping on snoopyc4's jurisdiction??? :eek:
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Solion
Here are the latest pictures of he new and improved jamming heads. I will be installing them tomorrow.
I would love to see those waterproof flexible "strip" LEDs used as jammer heads.
http://www.oznium.com/product_photos/large/1850.jpg
They do make a version with IR LEDs, but the ones I saw emit at the wrong wavelength. :(
Just like the other poster said, you could turn your bumpers, your A-pillars, your roofline, and a whole bunch of other parts of your car into a gigantic jammer head. :lol:
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
This thread is epic... hopefully it wont be an epic fail :D
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
this is where I am at with a home made jammer in the overall,
The first thing is to see if Offboard heads will work with the blinder unit I have now. If I can make these heads jam effectively then the plan would be to see how many other places I could install heads, Then the attempt to increase the number of sensors in the unit.
Al of those things will lead me to the next phase of the "home built jammer " portion of this
Basically the original plan was to build a jammer on the cheap/something a hobbyist could build, Now after pulling all the information into play I see that there really is only one way to do this. But it means throwing jam codes. Here is what I suspect the final build will look like.
The Budget jammer
Hacked, 1 whistler radar/lidar detector , sealed in project box with apeture window with lens focused on the laser detector with pigtailed detectors on marker lights /grill/ wherever.
This would fire the jammer, 2khz pulse jammer with high output laser diodes or leds that will will run on a timer then shut down. /or can be turned off
Yeah , will you throw a jam code? probly , well for PL3 it doesn't matter. but it will be fun to test. Simple build almost anyone could construct in a couple of evenings. for about 50.00.
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by
swarga
Quote:
Originally Posted by
ATF
Quote:
Originally Posted by
fulcrum
Laserguns use avalange photodiode based receivers, expensive but ideal for precise timing. In a jammer 'normal' photo diodes are the logical choice.
Avalanche :D
You stepping on snoopyc4's jurisdiction??? :eek:
mmmm I don't know what snoopy's job is :D care to enlighten me?
I just know what APD's are from work.
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
Well we live and learn and build better. After taking the switching rig to a friend of mines scope we are ditching the HS transistor setup for driving the new jammer heads. The wave forms are not there for what I think will work.
Enter the MOSFET driver... Yeah .. Now were talking.
Stay tuned.
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Solion
Well we live and learn and build better. After taking the switching rig to a friend of mines scope we are ditching the HS transistor setup for driving the new jammer heads. The wave forms are not there for what I think will work.
Enter the MOSFET driver... Yeah .. Now were talking.
Stay tuned.
Good decision, I'm sure a MOSFET is the best component today to drive those LEDs. These modern MOSFETS are even fast enough to drive a pulse laser to full power within a few ns. But even the fastest MOSFET can not drive a large group of LEDs with some (long) wiring fast enough for your purpose. (Why do you think blinder uses 1 MOSFET per LED, and then mounted very close to that LED)
Of course it's a fun hobby, but I'm pretty sure that you are wasting time and money now. Why not design a driver layout that will work, and integrate that with the LEDs in a single compact unit?
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
Quote:
Originally Posted by
fulcrum
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Solion
Well we live and learn and build better. After taking the switching rig to a friend of mines scope we are ditching the HS transistor setup for driving the new jammer heads. The wave forms are not there for what I think will work.
Enter the MOSFET driver... Yeah .. Now were talking.
Stay tuned.
Good decision, I'm sure a MOSFET is the best component today to drive those LEDs. These modern MOSFETS are even fast enough to drive a pulse laser to full power within a few ns. But even the fastest MOSFET can not drive a large group of LEDs with some (long) wiring fast enough for your purpose. (Why do you think blinder uses 1 MOSFET per LED, and then mounted very close to that LED)
Of course it's a fun hobby, but I'm pretty sure that you are wasting time and money now. Why not design a driver layout that will work, and integrate that with the LEDs in a single compact unit?
Well we will see, I have now shortened the leads to the absolute minimum 1.5 feet in total. and the new fet driver is giving me really clean pulses. SO going to do a single run test and see of the offboard heads work
we will see
1 Attachment(s)
Re: Wanting to test home built lidar jammer
Mosfet driver with heatsink in place. If its going to work, this may have the best chance at it.
Will be sealing it in the same plastic as the heads for waterproofing. At a possible 20 amps the heatsink will be very necessary