Remote Mute Button?

I just got a V1. Really excited but finally got one cause I just got my first ticket :oops: Anyways, I love it so far. Its a 1.7 with the front and rear lasers but works good enough for me. I'm going to hardwire it tomorrow and going to install the concealed display somewhere in the mustang..Haven't quite picked yet but was mostly dissappointed bout the mute button. I looked around and noticed you could make one with the telephone cable i think but couldn't find a how to. can anyone inform me on how to make one so that i can add it to my stealth installation? Thanks~ (I searched and been searching for hours so if its on here somewhere...sorry)

Why are you dissapointed by it? I kinda like it.

this fellow makes and sells them on ebay.

just got one and its like 1/4" x 1/4", very discrete, can be mounted anywhere or highbeam stalk

<NO EBAY LINKS ALLOWED - JIMBONZZZ>

Please review the forum rules before posting again:
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'

whoops ....

I dissappointed that there's not a convenient mute button. I saw that guys mute button but it couldn't be hard to make so rather than pay him, I'd rather make it. I saw the other method of using the concealed display aind soldering on to it (on the porsche) but I rather make one with the r11. couldn't be hard....

Here's a couple of different diagrams :D


http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/1...otemuteen1.gif



http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/2231/v1mutetl7.gif

Oh..so just add a switch from the mute to a ground and thats it? Do I need the resistor? Thanks guys for the help by the way

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Originally Posted by oppa

Oh..so just add a switch from the mute to a ground and thats it? Do I need the resistor? Thanks guys for the help by the way

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Though it might work OK without it, you should have the resistor. It acts as a current limiter which could prevent you from frying the V1, and it is present in the original mute circuit in the remote display.

You guys are awesome. Glad I found this site. I went to Dallas this past weekend and got lasered 3 times and ka went crazy like 4 times. Didn't realize there were soo many cops on the road. Best purchase i've made in a long time.

Thanks jim. I'm on my way to radio shack.

Could you do this in parallel with concealed display? OR do you have to go into concealed display and tap into mute button leads?

I have a concealed display but want a mute btn on my column wiper arm. Thanks.

you could do it in parallel (as you say)...its a momentary
on (constant off) switch so it only completes the circuit
when you push the mute/switch.

fwiw Inside the remote display youll find TWO open
holes in the pcb follow the original mute button circuit/trace
wires and youll find the two holes.

when i hacked my display & removed the mute button i just
soldered some wires into these existing holes for my remote
mute button

just posted some pics of my "remote mounted" mute button.

http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...ute-Button.jpg

how many watts should the resistor be? 1/8, 1/4, or 1/2 watt?

wow bushpilot, nice install.

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Originally Posted by whiterabbit05

how many watts should the resistor be? 1/8, 1/4, or 1/2 watt?

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Any will work OK, since you're not dissipating much power here...

okie dokie. do you know which the remote display uses?

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Originally Posted by whiterabbit05

okie dokie. do you know which the remote display uses?

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Not off hand... since it's a tiny surface mount, probably 1/16, 1/18, or 1/20 Watt. You can always go higher and be fine, I just used 1/4 just because they're common...

Keep in mind that the left-to-right ordering of the four "pins" depends on which jack you are looking at.

The pictures that jimbonzzz provided indicate "To V1 Accessory Port", which of course refers to the "accessory out" jack on the power adapters. That's fine, but unless I can tell whether the pictures are looking into the jack or looking down onto the jack from the top, it is useless. The only way that those pictures resemble anything familiar to me is if they are top-down views, and as such, they imply that at the "accessory out" jacks, the left-most pin (when looking into the jack) is the data pin. According to the drawings that Valentine's technical support people sent me a few years ago, this is wrong, and is the reverse of what is correct.

I haven't personally verified the drawings that Valentine sent me, but it seems unlikely to me that they would be incorrect, and unlike the drawings that jimbonzzz probably took from the site that he wasn't supposed to mention, the drawings that Valentine sent to me look like what you see when you look into a jack, and each of the four drawings is clearly labeled "Looking into .." I would be surprised if these drawings are incorrect, since it is apparent that whoever drew them, properly understood that in order for these sorts of drawings to be of any value whatsoever, they have to be drawn in a way so that the person looking at them will immediately recognize how to transfer the image to the actual jack.

According to the drawings that Valentine sent me, if you look into the V1's jack and ignore the two outer-most pins on that 6-pin jack, the middle four pins, from left to right, are display output (data), ground, +12V, and "Audio/mute". The Audio/mute line is normally +5V and provides the power for the Remote Audio Adapter, and it is used by the Remote Audio Adapter and the Concealed Display to signal to the V1 for engaging the mute or for mode selection. That same ordering applies to the "accessory" jack on the power adapters, and to the "power-in" jack on the Remote Audio Adapter. The reverse ordering applies to the other jacks: the "main" jack on the power adapters (or the one that has the little picture of the V1), the "power-out" jack on the Remote Audio Adapter, and the jack on the Concealed Display, where once again you ignore the two outer-most pins.

Clearly, the way that you make the remote muting switch, depends on where you want to connect it. You can use a regular telephone T-adapter, by inserting its base/prong into one of the jacks on the V1 or the accessories. You can find T-adapters that have a solitary jack on the base side instead of a prong. Manifestly, you use a length of cable to connect the base to one of the jacks, and just as when you use a T-adapter with a prong, the ordering of the pins on the two side-by-side jacks on the other side of the T-adapter, will be the same as the ordering that applies to the jack to which you have connected the base of the T-adapter. Said differently, when you use a T-adapter, you create two jacks of the type to which the base of the T-adapter is connected.

How's that for a first post?

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Originally Posted by Kaiser Soze

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The pictures that jimbonzzz provided indicate "To V1 Accessory Port", which of course refers to the "accessory out" jack on the power adapters. That's fine, but unless I can tell whether the pictures are looking into the jack or looking down onto the jack from the top, it is useless. The only way that those pictures resemble anything familiar to me is if they are top-down views, and as such, they imply that at the "accessory out" jacks, the left-most pin (when looking into the jack) is the data pin. According to the drawings that Valentine's technical support people sent me a few years ago, this is wrong, and is the reverse of what is correct.

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My apologies that you are having difficulty understanding my drawing. I never claimed to be an artist :lol: But, several other people on here have followed the drawings without difficulty. I put two views on there, which are a top view and an end view of the RJ-11 plug. I thought these drawings were very reasonable, and they are very comparable to what can be found elsewhere (including some of the VR diagrams which you praise so much!). I didn't make a diagram of a jack, since a jack isn't required to make the cable, and It *should* be pretty obvious that neither of these drwings are of a jack. But, I guess it wasn't very obvious to *you* for some reason.

The pin order in my drawings IS in fact correct, if you're plugging in to the V1 accessory port. I am well aware of the diagrams Valentine Research sends out to people. They've been posted on this board several times, and they in fact confirm that my pin order is correct:

Power Jack Summary
Remote Mute

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Originally Posted by Kaiser Soze

I haven't personally verified the drawings that Valentine sent me, but it seems unlikely to me that they would be incorrect, and unlike the drawings that jimbonzzz probably took from the site that he wasn't supposed to mention, the drawings that Valentine sent to me look like what you see when you look into a jack, and each of the four drawings is clearly labeled "Looking into .."

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Just what the hell are you trying to imply here? What are you accusing me of?
I didn't "take" any drawings from anyone's site!!!

Please explain what you mean!!!

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Originally Posted by Kaiser Soze

How's that for a first post?

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Could have been better. Are all of your posts on here going to obsess on RJ-11 jacks, and accuse the admins of wrongdoing?
If so, you're not going to last very long!

Jimbonzzz,

I am so surprised at your reaction to my post, that I hardly know where to begin. I'll start with an apology.

I made a mistake when I didn't look carefully enough at the previous posts. I incorrectly associated you with the person who had posted the link to the other site. That was an innocent mistake. The reason that I made that mistake is that I was confused by the appearance of your name in that post, which was actually done by "infaze". But, given that I made that mistake, was it really necessary for you to go off the deep end?

I studied those diagrams for 5 - 10 minutes, and it did not occur to me that both graphics in each of the two images, were for the plug and not the jack. I did not recognize that the lower grapic in each image, is a graphic of the plug and not the jack. Now that you have pointed that out, it is apparent that the graphic which does not show a wire attached at all, is an end-view of the plug. Now that you have pointed that out, the graphic is indeed a very good graphic. You assert that it *should* be obvious to anyone that both of these graphics are graphics of the plug and not the jack. Perhaps you have a statistically significant sample from which to base that assertion, but all I can tell you for certain is that it was not apparent to me.

More importantly, my intentions were not to be critical of your graphic skills, or your communications skills, or to push your buttons and make you come at me like a rabid dog. My purpose was merely to try and add what I thought would be some useful value to a topic. You have taught me that on this forum, anytime that I endeavor to add something to a discussion, I need to be very, very careful not to do something that someone could misconstrue as a personal criticism, least I be treated in the uncivilized manner that you have treated me.

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Just what the hell are you trying to imply here? What are you accusing me of?

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That was not in the least bit called for. There was no explicit accusation whatsover. That specific element of my post was altogether subordinate to its intended purpose, and you inappropriately took it entirely out of proper context and blew it out of proper proportion and perspective.

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Are all of your posts on here going to obsess on RJ-11 jacks, and accuse the admins of wrongdoing?
If so, you're not going to last very long!

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That was not in the least bit called for. For an administrator, you certainly do have a hot temper and a propensity to take something that was not intended in any way to be a personal criticism of you, and used it as an excuse to direct abuse toward someone who was only trying to make a positive contribution to a discussion.

You don't have to concern yourself with whether I will last long. I have apologized to you, and unless you apologize to me, you have seen to it that I will not return to this forum again, ever. Thanks for the warm welcome and the fond memories.

Apology accepted, sounds like you were just confused and didn't mean to imply that I did anything wrong.

I am sorry I drew the wrong conclusion from your post :oops:
But what was I supposed to think? You have to understand where I was coming from: the way it looked to me was that you were trying to say that I "took" someone's images from their site, and used them to make my own drawings without giving credit to the original website, which is definitely NOT the case. Sorry but I wouldn't put up with that kind of crap from ANYONE on here, let alone a newbie!

Anyway, it seems that there were misunderstandings on both ends here, but hopefully they've been cleared up.

So, welcome to the forum! :)

i did it with no problems =)

well except one...i didnt look at the diagram close enough and depending on which end jack you are using, when looking at it from the frontal view, the colors go Black, Red, Green, Yellow or Yellow, Green, Red Black

so at first i thought of course the ground would be green, making black the mute wire, WRONG. after i hooked it up the first time and tested it out, everytime i hit my button, the display would go blank. i thought i f'ed something up at first

i then decided to follow the diagram and went with red as my ground and yellow as the mute, which seemed odd cause why would a ground wire be red????!!!! i tried it anyways and it worked fine =)

after thinking about it for a little more, i was connecting the 12v to the data wire at first, that is why the screen went blank on the v1, the data was now being sent out because it saw the 12v wire as the concealed display

Just a tip to whomever is doing this if you cant get it to work like i did. And also be sure to use a phone jack that has 4 pins in order for this to work correctly 8)

I personally don't understand what the big deal with the mute button is. If I'm driving by myself, I leave it full blast, even with 8+ sources, it makes me happy to see it working. If I'm with someone else, I just leave it low the entire time.

^and that contributes to this thread how???

pointless post of the year ftw!

Thanks for this thread. I made my own remote mute switch last night. "Tactile" micro-switch, 10k 1/4 watt resistor, and half a phone cord. I'm not good at soldering, so it took me about 30 minutes to put it together.

I got the wires tight on the first try. (Red & yellow, on my cord, ymmv?)

I have extra parts, so I may try again and this time use shrink-wrap instead of electrical tape.

Follow the diagram from Jimbonzz. If you do it correctly it works great. I
also added a resistor since I heard that is the better way to do it. Maybe I am wrong on this but its a done deal already.

Anyway, it works great and I cant imagine life without it. It also works as a mode changing button (just like the momentary switch on the V1).

If you program in k band muting settings and then have the remote mounted mute switch driving will be a great pleasure.