STEALTHnode: problem to communicate with the remote

Hello.

I have a STEALTHnode. I disassembled it to put it inside a plastic box with other compounds (like a bluetooth transmitter). The plastic box is just behind the bumper and before the radiator. My car is a Renault Megane without athermic glass.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...ceptor/030.jpg
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...ceptor/032.jpg

I can't use the STEALTHnode remote inside the car: 90% of the tests don't work, I can't switch off or switch on. But when I exit of the car and I walk near the front of the car, the remote works well.

I tried the two remotes, it's a new STEALTHnode (1 month ago).

I did some tests inside my house before wiring the system on the car, and all was working well.

Inside the STEALTHnode, there is an antenna. I leave it outside the plastic box.

Cheetah guys: have you an idea to solve this problem? do you think the problem could be because of the Bluetooth transmitter?

Thanks for your help.

First, try moving the blue wire up, instead of hanging.

if that doesn't work, try removing or turning of the bluetooth transmitter.

The circuit board wasn't made to be left out bare like that, and close proximity to the other stuff in there could cause a frequency issue possibly too.

this will rule those out, and let me know if this changes.

we always recommend a full second on the buttons. technically it works in half that time, but to be sure a signal isn't missed on a short press, we say 1 second.

if all else fails, put it back the way it came. :wink:

First, I changed the StealthNODE for a new one (normally OFF when I start the car engine). I left the StelthNODE in its original box. But the problem remains.

Secondly, I installed a antiparasite. The results did not look better. (there are even parasites in the transmission of sound LI, one wonders what's the point of this contraption).

I was able to confirm that I have to close my box, put it under the hood. The problem is that it is more visible if the cops open the trunk. But most importantly, there is not the place!

I think finally I hope that the radiator of the car which makes screen. This screen is increasing with speed.

Your English is much better than my French but I'm not sure I fully understand what you're trying to say here.

Can you please try to explain this one more time.

no problem. :-)

so i intalled another one StealthNODE inside the box i described before. all the remotes i tested were new ones, so it'snt a problem of battery.

the bOx stays just behind the bumper, just before the heat exChanger of the engine.

i installed an antInterference (antistatic) in the wiring: it's somethihg which decrease the statics in the sound of the LI.

but the range of the StealthNODE remote is too short. the only way to use it is to lean over the windscreen, 30 cm in front of the stearing wheel.

i leave the wiring of the StealthNODE inside its original box.

up!

well, try pointing the antenna up instead of hanging.
you have things down in front of a lot of metal.

if that doesn't work, try "extending" the antenna by adding an extra piece of wiring on it running up higher.

Just put the Stealthnode switch where it's supposed to go - close to the battery.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by allyoops

Just put the Stealthnode switch where it's supposed to go - close to the battery.

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Sorry, I changed the wiring. All is near the battery, at the front of the car inside the engine room. The remote works well sometimes, but at high speed and sometimes at low speed, I have to use it near the front glass, 30 cm front the wheel-drive.

Have you an idea about this problem?

All is new, and the problem stays even if it's easier now with this new wiring.

Our stuff is so technically straightforward it will either be working or it isn't - it's never intermittant like you are describing.

This is making me wonder if you actually have a technical problem or not. I think it may just be a misunderstanding on how wireless technology works.

Tell me this - why do you think that the STEALTHnode switch is not turning the jammer on and off properly when you are driving?

Are you aware that the wireless connection LED doesn't switch off immediately?

When you press the keyfob to turn the jammer off, the jammer and transmitter in the engine bay are killed immediately, but the wireless link light stays on until it fails to receive two check signals from the transmitter in the engine. These check signals are sent out every 20 seconds or so, so (you'll see the little blink to confirm this when the light is on.) When the warning unit inside your car doesn't get two of these signals in a row, it turns off the light to let you know the wireless link is gone. Depending on where you are in the 20 second check cycle when you turn the jammer off, this is why it takes between 21-40 seconds for the light to disappear when you turn a jammer off remotely. I repeat, even though the light is on, your jammer is off.

If you were expecting the wireless link light on the in-car warning unit to go off the very second you turn off the jammer with the Keyfob then this may be why you thought you were having a "problem."

Now that you understand more about it, does this help?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by allyoops

Tell me this - why do you think that the STEALTHnode switch is not turning the jammer on and off properly when you are driving?

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The LI runs like this: switch on, you get the message 'Welcome ....'; switch off, you get no message.

The STEALTHnode you send me starts OFF (I have the POWERnode too).

Because when I press on the keyfob near the glass, I get the Welcome message every time: switch on , then switch off, then switch on with the welcome message, etc...

When I press the keyfob near the gear lever (between the two front seats), often I hear nothing. After, I press the keyfob near the front glass, I get the welcome message.

Thanks for your help.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...ceptor/002.jpg

Hello.

I move the STEALTHnode near the front glass. No the remote works very well. I think the range is very short but not a problem now.

Now I think I have a last problem with the POWERsense. Sometimes it switchs off the power a few times (less 1 mn). I tried with it, and all seems work well several hours. I will do more tests and tell you if the problem stays.

Thanks.

I'm pleased you have it working properly. There has to be something unusual about your car's set up for this to have been an issue. Range is not normally an issue.

Regarding your power supply - check your connections

I write a mistake:

Quote:

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Now I think I have a last problem with the POWERsense. Sometimes it switchs off the power a few times (less 1 mn). I tried without POWERsense, and all seems work well several hours. I will do more tests and tell you if the problem stays.

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Look closely at the POWERSENSEnode after you have started your engine. Are you seeing a little Red LED inside the plastic casing lighting up? this will tell you if it is working or not.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by allyoops

Look closely at the POWERSENSEnode after you have started your engine. Are you seeing a little Red LED inside the plastic casing lighting up? this will tell you if it is working or not.

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Yes the red light works just after starting my engine. The problem is too quick too see the POWERsense. It happens when I drive several minutes. Maybe heat? But where is the POWERsense, it's cold.

I drove several hundreds km without the POWERsense. Only Fuse pack -> STEALTHnode -> LI. No problem like this: the LI staus in run durind several hours of driving.

I just add the POWERsense like this: Fuse pack -> POWERsense -> STEALTHnode -> LI. The problem begins ten seconds after, durind drinving. Sometimes the LI swichs off: I have to push the ON button on the remote to swith on the LI.

I din't know why. During the engine runnig, I moved every connectors especially the connectors of the POWERsense. The was no problem: the LI stayd on.

I tried to put the POWERsense in a hot part near the engine. And I accelerate the engine to increase the heat during 10 minutes. The compunds was very hot but there was no problem.

I don't understand where is the problem. Allyoops, do you want I send the POWERsense to check it?

Please do that.

There are some cars the POWERSENSEnode won't work on (Hybrids, mainly) but we haven't had an issue with Renaults before.

For everyone's information, the issue with hybrid cars is that the POWERSENSEnode is an engine running sensor. Hybrids are constantly switching their engines on and off so the POWERSENSEnode keeps thinking the car is being switched off and it does its job of shutting the jammers down.

Basically Hybrids drive it nuts so if you want to use a wireless kit on a hybrid you need to remove the POWERSENSEnode and hardwire it the kit to a switched 12V power supply in the engine bay.

Thanks. Where have I to post the unit? At DUNBLANE?

Yes please

Hi Allyoops

Did you receive the unit?

I'll check with the office

OK I'm waiting

My office tells me they haven't received it yet. How did you send it? Can you just email me about this please?

Hello ally.

Have you recaived the unit?

Like I said you by email, I send it via the french post. The system is Colissimo Europe but I don't know who transports the packet in UK.

Please give infos.

Hello allyoops.

Are you in holyday?

Actually, yes I was away on Holiday. Sorry about that.

We received your POWERSENSEnode back. The support dept took one look at it and decided they couldn't progress it any further due to user modifications I'm afraid.

If I understand well, you decides to stop investigation because of my modification?

exactly, I'm afraid. Your modifications voided the warranty and for such an inexpensive part of the kit, they just don't have the time to figure out what you did. It was just easier to send you the other one.

See your MP.