Hardwire Escort Cord into '08 G35?

I got the stealth cord yesterday, but even at 48 inches it's too short. I need a cord that is at least 7-8 feet long. I run it down teh pillar then under my dash.

Questions:
I have the direct hardwire cord from Escort taht I removed from my old car. Is tehre a way to re-use this? Picture included for refencence.

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...9/CIMG0211.jpg

It has 4 components:

1. Ground Loop taht needs to be attached to bolt
2. Hot wire metal prong
3. Blue snap that closes around hot wire to tap to feed
4. RJ-11 that plugs into the radar

According to the posts, the best way to hit a current on the G35 is to tap into the rear view mirror/homelink. How can i modify the ends of smart cord to tap into that connection?

Or do i have to go to teh fuse box? Then what mods will i need to make to the cord?

Or Is there a way to keep the StealthCord and add and additional 4 feet of phone cord? I'm not very techincal. Is there an easy way to splice a new wire to teh exisitng? Are talkign strip wire and wrap together each wore or soddering?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Any decent quality (spend the few extra cents)phone cord 8 foot long will do that has RJ-11 connections on it... sorry I'm in a rush can't get to many of your questions but I hope that helps a little with the cord length issue.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...&tab=techSpecs

This sort of plug (I believe) will help you much more-so then splicing and such.... simply plug the RJ-11 from the Escort cord into this, then plug the extra length of phone line (and 4,6,8 etc) feet (however many you may need) into the other end, and viola, no splicing and dicing and you have connected this all up. I suggest you go to your local RadioShack and tell them what you are trying to do. But I believe that, along with an extra 4 or 8 feet of wire solves your length issue. :wink:

Here's the best advice I can give you:

Circuit City hard wired my 9500i for $35. :lol:

I'm not very knowledgeable with electronics either. :oops:

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I got it working with my older Direct wire kit from Escort.

1. Purchased an Add a Circuit from Pep Boys. $9.

2. On the add a circuit, added a 5 amp fuse and a 10 amp fuse that came with it.

3. On the red wire coming off the add a circuit (before the blue part), shaved a little off the thick red wire and clamped the blue piece that came with my hardwire to tap into the wire without having to splice it.

4. Then plugged the metal piece on the Escort Hardwire into that blue tap

5. Removed the fuse (15 amps) for Cigarette lighter on my car.

6. Plugged the add a circuit into that space.

7. Grounded the black wire to a screw i found under the dash.

8. Pressed start on the car and radar as well as teh cigarette lighter both turn on and off with the ignition!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ping

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I got it working with my older Direct wire kit from Escort.

1. Purchased an Add a Circuit from Pep Boys. $9.

2. On the add a circuit, added a 5 amp fuse and a 10 amp fuse that came with it.

3. On the red wire coming off the add a circuit (before the blue part), shaved a little off the thick red wire and clamped the blue piece that came with my hardwire to tap into the wire without having to splice it.

4. Then plugged the metal piece on the Escort Hardwire into that blue tap

5. Removed the fuse (15 amps) for Cigarette lighter on my car.

6. Plugged the add a circuit into that space.

7. Grounded the black wire to a screw i found under the dash.

8. Pressed start on the car and radar as well as teh cigarette lighter both turn on and off with the ignition!

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heck yeah. enjoy the stealth install.

Fuse from Pep Boys
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n144/glocker99/f.jpg

Fuse Box
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n144/glocker99/e.jpg

Final Install with radar on lower left of dash.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n144/glocker99/b.jpg

Ping-

That blue low profile mini fuse, that's the original fuse that came out of your fuse box right? I take it that you didn't encounter any problems using a normal mini fuse in the fuse box then. That's good. I think I'll do that then.

The location of the radar detector is a little strange though. With the curvature of the windshield in the G35, your radar detector is aimed to the left of the road. I have that problem even when I mount my radar any more than 6-8 inches off center of my G35.

Hi ping,

Drop the 5A fuse for the RD down to a 3A fuse which is readily available at the auto stores. A 3A fuse is better since the 5A fuse might allow your RD to smoke if ever something internally goes wrong inside your RD.

Just a thought. :)

Arman - to be honest. i have no idea about the fuses. I've used the RD set-up all day on my travels and not had one problem.

I'm still adjusting the placement of my RD. I have plenty of slack to put it back in the center of the windshield.

Memtek - I took out a Blue 15 amp fuse that came with the car in the cig lighter spot and replaced it with the add a circuit. Another pix i saw online had a the fuse with a 10 and 5. I just did the same.

To be honest, i have no idea what those numbers mean. If the original one i took out was 15, dont i have to replace it with 10+5=15?

What would happen if as you say, I bump the 5 down to 3? Then 10+3=13?

I'm looking at straight math, i have no comprehension of the logic.

I have no idea either about the amperage on the fuses. Maybe ... the number is the max amps that the fuse will allow the juice to go through? By limiting the number, perhaps, you are ensuring that the juice never goes beyond a certain number to prevent frying the RD?

HALLELUJAH!!!

This noob finally hardwired a radar detector without using the Invisicord or Stealthcord!! I did the "add-a-circuit" thing and used the standard mini fuse "add-a-circuit", even though my car uses the low profile mini fuses. Everything seems to be working fine. I tapped into the 10 amp fuse for the map light. However, for the radar juice line, I had to use a 7.5 amp fuse. The 5 amp fuse apparently did not give sufficient juice to run the 9500i. 5 amp was good enough for V1 though. I ended up using the 7.5 so that I can swap out the V1 for the 9500i using the same hardwire line. I am using the hardwire interface that came with the V1, so I can run the remote module for the V1 too.

Next mission is to convert the "smart cord" for the 9500i into something that I can plug into the remote module interface that came with the V1.

Thanks for everyone who helped not only on this thread but on many other threads and PM's over the last month or so! I feel like I just performed brain surgery. Yes, I am a total noob! Only things I've ever done in the past regarding cars were changing the tires, changing the motor oil and filter, and changing the air filter! Oh, and top off the fluids and switch wiper blades!

i used a 1amp fuse for my 9500i, and ran my sat radio, and gps using it, 1amp is FAR more than enough for the 9500i

on a side note i also have a v1 now, the 1amp works with this also, and thats using 3 devices on it, it works perfectly fine with a 1amp, no reason to go higher

Hmm ... I wonder why 5 amp fuse didn't work for my 9500i. Is there any problems if I run it with a 7.5 amp fuse? Is there really danger of frying the radar detector? I also have an inline fuse located in the juice line that goes from the fuse box to the hardwire splitter interface that came with the V1.

that i can't answer, but i know what i run :P

Hey it is possible to slip the wire along the trim to run it up higher if you need to, i used a flat head covered screwdriver to help glide it in there, it may require some wedging but it fits easily. Heres where I ran my wire, note my pretty red circles :D You can run that extra wire along there to make it look cleaner when its kept low.

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/4...3909ds5.th.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BLUEPOLE

i used a flat head covered screwdriver to help glide it in there

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A doubled-up set of credit-cards, taped-together with "masking tape," also serves as an excellent makeshift "pusher," and will neither be too thick (as can a "covered" flat-head screwdriver) nor risk "poking through" the wiring sheath (as can a non-covered flat-head screwdriver).

:)

Also, many automotive stores sell, very cheaply, specific trim removal/wire-run tools, made out of non-marring plastic.

A taped (or not) disposable putty knife or similar, from the hardware store, also works great.

:)

I think the OP missed the point of the StealthCord. I have my 9500i hardwired in my 08 G37s with an 8 inch stealthcord. The detector sits high and to the left of my RVM and I wired it directly to the power connector on the back of the RVM. Nice clean install with just 8 inches.

Meta

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Metaphysics

I think the OP missed the point of the StealthCord. I have my 9500i hardwired in my 08 G37s with an 8 inch stealthcord. The detector sits high and to the left of my RVM and I wired it directly to the power connector on the back of the RVM. Nice clean install with just 8 inches.

Meta

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Well, he likes to run his RD from the lower left of the windshield. So the Stealthcord is a little bit too short for that.

How do you like the G37? Sometimes, I regret having gotten the G35 instead of the G37. Sigh.

meta - I am quite clear in what i was trying to accomplish. I have the plastic tool that allows me to tuck the cord up the a- pillar and hide it completely, if i so desired.

However, I dont want the RD sitting above the dash in the middle of teh window. I don't need the world behind me to see the RD sitting there. Lights flashing and all. Even on the lowest brightness display option that still shows bars. It's more descret on the lower left side of teh dash and still has full range of straight ahead as well as rear.

Moreover, I need the extra length of cord so that when i leave my car, i can quick release it from the suction cup mount and with the cord attached, and stick it to the velcro attached under my steering column.

The problem taht i had with pulling the cord out each time I wanted to hide it, was that over time... the cord wears and then splits at the rj-11 piece. Then i ahve to keep putting new connectors on teh end of the wire and crimping and its a annoying.

So if there is 10 inches of cord that is hanging out by the vent, i'm cool with that. No one, not even my passenger, can see it but me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ping

Moreover, I need the extra length of cord so that when i leave my car, i can quick release it from the suction cup mount and with the cord attached, and stick it to the velcro attached under my steering column.

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That makes more sense, that is the fastest way to take it down besides a battery operate model. I like the velcro idea , alot easier than reaching for my glove box each time. Does it still stay cool though under the column?

Does it last? The velcro outlasted my 5 year old beamer.

I had it under the steerting clumn in my 3 series with all black interior. In teh summer, my car felt like Fallujah. And yes, it still stuck.

They sell it at Home Depot. Velcro brand. It's black about 4 inches long by 3 inches wide. Make sure it says "Industrial" and "For Dashboard - Great on vinyl" on teh box. Taht's the one you want.

The fuzzy strip goes on teh bottom of the RD. the otehr hook strip goes on teh flattest surface directly under the steering column. I'd say about somewhere above teh knee. The whole underside is all curves except for this one flat area. Use some iso alcohol to swab the surface, then stick.

Done!

I have my Escort passport X50 Red hired wired above my RVM on the left side, and a X50 blue in my other car and hardwired is definetly the way to go...THe telephone cord this the best way to go in that it is alot cheaper and u can do it yourself

Radio Shack has this "Superlock" velcro substitute. It uses plastic pips that fit into each other. So it doesn't have a fuzzy side to it. Stuff is industrial strength. Here's a link:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

They had clear ones at the store that I went to. Thanks to Mem-Tek, I am actually using these Superlocks to hold my 9500i's mount, instead of suction cups. Here's the link to Mem-Tek's setup:

http://www.radardetector.net/viewtopic.php?t=32328

interesting. taht looks like it works too!