Question about TrueLock on 9500i with multiple alerts

Tonight while testing the new 9500i, I came upon a Walgreens that frequently gives a strong false alert from its doors. I pulled into its big parking lot and was about to block the signal when (while in Expert Mode) I picked up an additional signal. One was K, and the other was X. I don't recall which was from the Walgreens to be honest. So I drove around the parking lot once or twice, and on the 2nd pass when I got the one signal for the Walgreens door I locked it out.

Now across this intersection quite a ways, is a Stop & Shop that I assume that second alert was coming from. I drove across the intersection while the GPS showed it was blocking a signal out. Once in the Stop & Shop parking lot, it continued to show it was locking out a signal, and I got 0 alerts within that area.

What was going on? Is it possible I locked out BOTH signals at once?
Although I'd assume in the standard bar graph mode, where it only alerts to 1 signal (whichever it decides is the most important threat), it blocks only the current displayed threat.....what happens in Expert mode when more than one threat is being detected at once? Are you blocking out whatever is displayed with one single LockOut? Or was the secondary source something else (not the Stop & Shop) and perhaps the Stop & Shop either wasnt alerting me because I was going slow...OR was the same frequency/band as the Walgreens?

I guess best bet is to go back there, and unlock the area and try to determine EXACTLY what each alert is (band/source).

Looking for help from you experience 9500i guys

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

Tonight while testing the new 9500i, I came upon a Walgreens that frequently gives a strong false alert from its doors. I pulled into its big parking lot and was about to block the signal when (while in Expert Mode) I picked up an additional signal. One was K, and the other was X. I don't recall which was from the Walgreens to be honest. So I drove around the parking lot once or twice, and on the 2nd pass when I got the one signal for the Walgreens door I locked it out.

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First off, you should not lockout signals by driving up to them, you should lockout signals where you normally drive, on the street. The reason for this is that, we think we've made a correlation such that the stronger the signal, the larger the lockout area. This could get dangerous if a LEO is running radar in your large lockout area.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

Now across this intersection quite a ways, is a Stop & Shop that I assume that second alert was coming from. I drove across the intersection while the GPS showed it was blocking a signal out. Once in the Stop & Shop parking lot, it continued to show it was locking out a signal, and I got 0 alerts within that area.

What was going on? Is it possible I locked out BOTH signals at once?
Although I'd assume in the standard bar graph mode, where it only alerts to 1 signal (whichever it decides is the most important threat), it blocks only the current displayed threat.....what happens in Expert mode when more than one threat is being detected at once? Are you blocking out whatever is displayed with one single LockOut? Or was the secondary source something else (not the Stop & Shop) and perhaps the Stop & Shop either wasnt alerting me because I was going slow...OR was the same frequency/band as the Walgreens?

I guess best bet is to go back there, and unlock the area and try to determine EXACTLY what each alert is (band/source).

Looking for help from you experience 9500i guys

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You can definitely lockout more than one signal at a time. In my opinion, your best bet to determine which signal is what is by using spec display and highway mode.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

Tonight while testing the new 9500i, I came upon a Walgreens that frequently gives a strong false alert from its doors. I pulled into its big parking lot and was about to block the signal when (while in Expert Mode) I picked up an additional signal. One was K, and the other was X. I don't recall which was from the Walgreens to be honest. So I drove around the parking lot once or twice, and on the 2nd pass when I got the one signal for the Walgreens door I locked it out.

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If you wanted to lock out all the signals at walgreens you did what your superposed to do, however if you wanted to lock out the false on your rout, you would of needed to do it as you passed by it on the street. Like what djrams80 said.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

Now across this intersection quite a ways, is a Stop & Shop that I assume that second alert was coming from. I drove across the intersection while the GPS showed it was blocking a signal out. Once in the Stop & Shop parking lot, it continued to show it was locking out a signal, and I got 0 alerts within that area.

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TrueLock works cumulatively, so most likely it was adding falses as you drove by them, including the X or K false. (up to 1/2mi, in 1/10mi increments)
Try unlocking the area again and pay close attention to where and what band does what. You may determine you want to lock out that hole area, or just on your rout you drive by. i have a shopping center where i have done this.

What was going on? Too close a proximity of falses, or accumulative lock out area

Is it possible I locked out BOTH signals at once? Yes

Although I'd assume in the standard bar graph mode, where it only alerts to 1 signal (whichever it decides is the most important threat), it blocks only the current displayed threat.....No it will block out all the 9500I sees not just what it shows. Use Expert mode.

what happens in Expert mode when more than one threat is being detected at once? It will show and alert to both. it will also lock out both if you want it to (but at least you can see its doing it). However there is a way to only let the 9500I see only 1 when there is 2.

Are you blocking out whatever is displayed with one single LockOut? Yes. and maybe what its not displaying. Especially if your not in expert mode.

Or was the secondary source something else (not the Stop & Shop) and perhaps the Stop & Shop either wasnt alerting me because I was going slow...OR was the same frequency/band as the Walgreens? Possibly.

I guess best bet is to go back there, and unlock the area and try to determine EXACTLY what each alert is (band/source). Yes, use speck mode first than use expert mode.

TrueLock works cumulatively, so most likely it was adding falses as you drove by them.
Try unlocking the area again and pay close attention to where what band does what. You may determine you want to lock out that hole area, i have a shopping center where i have done this.

I would say read my hole thread again if you haven't already, and look closely at section 3 & 5.

Hi RadarKid,

I see you got your new toy!

The 9500i does not display every signal which it is detecting before you lock out any false signals. The 9500i is also smart enough to add any signals which it detects (and note where they are located) very close by to the area where you locked out whatever false signals that your 9500i was detecting. As others mentioned, never lock out false signals by driving up really close to the false signal sources. This unnecessarily causes the 9500i to set a huge lockout radius which could be up to 1/2 of a mile wide! Driving really close to a false signal source can also cause an overload within the 9500i where it can't exactly determine the frequencies to be locked out. Thus the range of locked out frequencies could be overly broad rather than being more specific to the actual detected frequencies from a further distance.

I will put it another way. First, no RD manufacturer can counter signal overload problems if you get really close to a false radar source. (Well, they could, but then the RD's sensitivity would be horrible.) This is why you should, as shown in Escort's graphics and videos, only lock out locations as you are close to passing by them. That way you are assured of being far enough away from the false radar sources such that the 9500i can accurately "see" what frequencies to lock out, and to assure that these locked out frequencies will only be in effect for a 1/10 mile radius or less. If you never get closer than 100 feet from a false radar source, then you are good to go. Unfortunately some drug stores are built really close to the road. PM me and I will tell you how to deal with pesky door openers which are really close to the road.

If, after locking out a location, you encounter a cop in the same area who is using either X or K band radar, then go back to the locked out location, clear it, and lock it out again once the cop is gone. Its not so much that the cop's radar gun accidentally got locked out, but instead it is because his radar gun output is so very strong. This can trigger the 9500i into setting the lockout radius to a huge 1/2 mile radius for all of the false frequencies.

So, it boils down to...

-- Don't lock out nothing if you are really close to any microwave door openers.

-- After locking out a location, look for any cops operating radar within 1/4 mile of where you locked out some false sources. If a cop is present, then clear the lockout location, wait until the cop is gone, and then lock out the location again.
:)

:confused: :(

OK, same situation. I have a K band signal from a OfficeMax, and a X band from a Walgreens. They're less than a 1/4 of a mile from eachother but 2 completely separate bands of radar.

SEVERAL TIMES - I tested this by unlocking all blocked signals from TrueLock, then moving by one of the sources (either OfficeMax or Walgreens) in Spec and Expert modes to confirm I was only picking up 1 form of radar (the specific door I was passing or nearbye with no trace of the other).

At which time I'd lock out that 1 single band K or X and then leave the area after it confirmed it was locked out.

Traveling past the other source immediately after (the detector had stopped showing the spinning GPS signal) it again starts to spin from the other band of door opener.

I confirmed this was the case by even driving into their lots to confirm the frequencies and bands.

WTF!?!?!?!

I'm having serious doubts about the TrueLock now....if its able to lock out 2 different bands at once from 2 different sources when you only blocked 1 of the sources out...whats that say about risk if a cop is in the area!?!?

Unless someone can explain this to me and how to fix it, I'm probably going to either keep the 9500i and never use TrueLock, or send it back for a new 8500 X50 again.

Or possibly sell the brand new 9500i to someone that wants it (its a day old) and buy a Valentine to try it.

So pissed right now.

:mad:

Buy a V1 you will love it. ;):D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

:confused: :(

OK, same situation. I have a K band signal from a OfficeMax, and a X band from a Walgreens. They're less than a 1/4 of a mile from eachother but 2 completely separate bands of radar.

SEVERAL TIMES - I tested this by unlocking all blocked signals from TrueLock, then moving by one of the sources (either OfficeMax or Walgreens) in Spec and Expert modes to confirm I was only picking up 1 form of radar (the specific door I was passing or nearbye with no trace of the other).

At which time I'd lock out that 1 single band K or X and then leave the area after it confirmed it was locked out.

Traveling past the other source immediately after (the detector had stopped showing the spinning GPS signal) it again starts to spin from the other band of door opener.

I confirmed this was the case by even driving into their lots to confirm the frequencies and bands.

WTF!?!?!?!

I'm having serious doubts about the TrueLock now....if its able to lock out 2 different bands at once from 2 different sources when you only blocked 1 of the sources out...whats that say about risk if a cop is in the area!?!?

Unless someone can explain this to me and how to fix it, I'm probably going to either keep the 9500i and never use TrueLock, or send it back for a new 8500 X50 again.

Or possibly sell the brand new 9500i to someone that wants it (its a day old) and buy a Valentine to try it.

So pissed right now.

:mad:

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You can't just drive to the point where the satellite icon has stopped spinning, you must drive completely outside the Truelock radius and beyond. Then power cycle your 9500i. If you are still inside the Truelock radius, the 9500i will look to lockout every signal it finds. Why are you trying not to lockout a false alert anyhow?

One more time...TrueLock is cumulative... If you get an X band false then pass a K band false right after you lock out you will lock out both if its within ~1/10mi of last falses end. If you want to only lock out the one go the other way. Don’t let the 9500I see the other false at any time, than power it down.
What you are doing is telling the 9500I that you want to lock out both falses.


Read my thread please:
http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...fo-tricks.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

:confused: :(

OK, same situation. I have a K band signal from a OfficeMax, and a X band from a Walgreens. They're less than a 1/4 of a mile from eachother but 2 completely separate bands of radar.

SEVERAL TIMES - I tested this by unlocking all blocked signals from TrueLock, then moving by one of the sources (either OfficeMax or Walgreens) in Spec and Expert modes to confirm I was only picking up 1 form of radar (the specific door I was passing or nearbye with no trace of the other).

At which time I'd lock out that 1 single band K or X and then leave the area after it confirmed it was locked out.

Traveling past the other source immediately after (the detector had stopped showing the spinning GPS signal) it again starts to spin from the other band of door opener.

I confirmed this was the case by even driving into their lots to confirm the frequencies and bands.

WTF!?!?!?!

I'm having serious doubts about the TrueLock now....if its able to lock out 2 different bands at once from 2 different sources when you only blocked 1 of the sources out...whats that say about risk if a cop is in the area!?!?

Unless someone can explain this to me and how to fix it, I'm probably going to either keep the 9500i and never use TrueLock, or send it back for a new 8500 X50 again.

Or possibly sell the brand new 9500i to someone that wants it (its a day old) and buy a Valentine to try it.

So pissed right now.

:mad:

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The 9500i was "seeing" the other false radar sources within the lockout radius, and automatically added them to the list of frequencies needing to be locked out. Expert mode does NOT show you every single source since, sometimes, some sources are close in frequency and will be displayed as one combined signal or since sometimes very weakly detected sources don't register at all on the Expert mode display.

Here are the key things to do and not do when using Truelock:

-- Don't lock out falses when you are literally right next to them. The pegged out signal strength from the false will automatically cause the 9500i to set a lockout radius of 1/2 mile, and the 9500i will automatically add any other signals which it detects within this huge 1/2 mile radius to its list of frequencies to be locked out -- whether or not these weak signals show up on the Expert mode display.

-- Lock out falses only if you are no closer than 200 feet or so from the source so that the 9500i will automatically set its lockout radius the the standard minimum of 1/10 mile. The 9500i will automatically add any other false sources to the list which it detects within this small 1/10 mile radius regardless of whether or not these other frequencies are being properly displayed in Expert mode.

-- Truelock does not stop "learning" about its last locked out location until you drive outside of the lockout radius for that last locked out location and then power cycle the 9500i to commit the data to memory and to stop the learning mode. If you locked out the location by driving right up to the door opener, then the lockout radius was set to 1/2 mile. Thus you would have to drive over 1/2 mile away and then power cycle your 9500i to commit the data to memory. If you locked out the false by not getting really close to it, then the lockout radius should have been set to just 1/10 of a mile. In this case you would have to only drive about 1/4 mile away and then power cycle your 9500i. Alternatively, locking out another location causes the previous location's data to immediately get saved and kills the learning process for that previous location.

So, for your example, you moved close by one of the sources. That is a no-no! In Standard display mode I am sure that your 9500i's signal strength meter would have been pegged out at maximum intensity when you locked out one or the other of the false signals. This caused your 9500i to automatically set the lockout radius to its maximum of 1/2 mile, and caused it to automatically add any other signals being detected within this huge 1/2 mile radius, namely the other X or K band door opener.

So, the moral of the above is to use Truelock like Escort shows on their web site and in their videos. Simply lock out a location once you get fairly close (500ft) but never by driving right up to any door openers. This method will assure that the lockout radius will automatically be set to the minimum 1/10 mile radius. Once you lock out a specific location, just drive roughly 1/4 of a mile away and then power cycle your 9500i to commit the data to memory and stop the 9500i from trying to learn about additional falses in that locked out radius. Alternatively, drive to wherever the next false location is and then lock it out to force the previous lockout data to get committed to memory.


:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CJR238

One more time...TrueLock is cumulative... If you get an X band false then pass a K band false right after you lock out you will lock out both if its within ~1/10mi of last falses end. If you want to only lock out the one go the other way. Don’t let the 9500I see the other false at any time, than power it down.
What you are doing is telling the 9500I that you want to lock out both falses.


Read my thread please:
http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...fo-tricks.html

Video showing locking out of K 24.150 speed sign signal... than alert/spinning icon for less than 1/10mi... than 1/10mi with no radar... than a new radar speed sign ruining K 24.150 and alerting:
YouTube - 9500I truelock 24.150 1/10mi

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I powered it down by pulling the plug and repowered it up after blocking the first signal. It still blocked out both bands when I only blocked one.
Is that not what you meant?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

I powered it down and repowered it up after blocking the first signal.
Is that not what you meant?

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Not shure what your trying to do but. Did the 9500I see the other false after or during lock out? What are you trying to do? If your trying to only lock the 1 X band out make sure the 9500I doesn’t see the K false at any time before or during locking out the X. Than immediately drive at least 1/10mi with no alert away, you can then power it down or drive back.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CJR238

Not shure what your trying to do but. Did the 9500I see the other false after or during lock out? What are you trying to do? If your trying to only lock the 1 X band out make sure the 9500I doesn’t see the K false at any time before or during locking out the X. Than immediately drive at least 1/10mi away, you can then power it down or drive back.

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trying to lock out 1 signal at a time to avoid any possibility of a legit signal.
It saw the other false AFTER the lockout was confirmed. I can't drive 1/10 of a mile away from the first location without hitting another false in the area. Thats why I want to do one at a time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

trying to lock out 1 signal at a time to avoid any possibility of a legit signal.
It saw the other false AFTER the lockout was confirmed. I can't drive 1/10 of a mile away from the first location without hitting another false in the area. Thats why I want to do one at a time.

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Then you have to properly power the unit down after locking out the first signal, not unplug the unit.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by djrams80

Then you have to properly power the unit down after locking out the first signal, not unplug the unit.

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I can read that instruction later then...I don't have the book with me.
UNless you can explain the proper way to power down?

I appreciate your help...makes me feel better about it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

I can read that instruction later then...I don't have the book with me.
UNless you can explain the proper way to power down?

I appreciate your help...makes me feel better about it

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Press and hold the power button until she says powering down, like this:
YouTube - 9500i Blue That Needs Firmware Fix

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

trying to lock out 1 signal at a time to avoid any possibility of a legit signal.
It saw the other false AFTER the lockout was confirmed. I can't drive 1/10 of a mile away from the first location without hitting another false in the area. Thats why I want to do one at a time.

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Got it, makes sense what you’re trying to do. If the falses are too close together to get at least a 1/10mi of no alert after locking out it may be very difficult to do what you want it to do. The 1/10mi of no alert after the false ends is key and powering down correctly.

So essentially you have a rout you drive that has an X & K false very close to each other and you only want to lock out the X.
Well as i see it there is 2 choices because the falses are clustered together.

1- your going to here the K false even if you lock out the X, so you could just not lock out that spot since you hearing a false anyway.

2- Even if you locked out the X and not the K your going to drive slow there anyway because the local LEO's use K band, so just lock both. You probably never see them there anyway.

I will quote a statement from my thread that should be followed ether way you decide to go:

Quote:

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If you decide to lockout a false in a High Risk area to mute the alert you should still drive through the area with caution if you suspect any chance you could have locked out police radar. The same rules would apply if you were using any non GPS capable detector and instead pressed your mute button in false area. Simply treat the spinning satellite icon in your display as a silent alert and proceed with your own discretion and best judgment.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by CJR238

Got it, makes sense what you’re trying to do. If the falses are too close together to get at least a 1/10mi of no alert after locking out it may be very difficult to do what you want it to do. The 1/10mi of no alert after the false ends is key.

So essentially you have a rout you drive that has an X & K false very close to each other and you only want to lock out the X.
Well as i see it there is 2 choices because the falses are clustered together.

1- your going to here the K false even if you lock out the X, so you could just not lock out that spot since you hearing a false anyway.

2- Even if you locked out the X and not the K your going to drive slow there anyway because the local LEO's use K band, so just lock both. You probably never see them there anyway.

I will quote a statement from my thread that should be followed ether way you decide to go:

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so you dont agree with DJ that powering it down after the first will solve the problem?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

so you dont agree with DJ that powering it down after the first will solve the problem?

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It may, and should. However every scenario can be slightly different. The ~1/10mi-500ft of no alert after the last false ends seems to be key, then powering down if you wish. Even if your sitting directly in front of the false (which I still don’t suggest) it requires the 1/10mi of no alert and that’s why driving into shopping centers to lock out falses is not a good idea unless you want to lock out the hole shopping center.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CJR238

It may, and should. However every scenario can be slightly different. The ~1/10mi-500ft of no alert after the last false ends seems to be key, then powering down if you wish. Even if your sitting directly in front of the false (which I still don’t suggest) it requires the 1/10mi of no alert and that’s why driving into shopping centers to lock out falses is not a good idea unless you want to lock out the hole shopping center.

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I would want both these two sources (Walgreens & OfficeMax) locked out (X and K) but I'm afraid that it may lock other legit X's and K's out...

no?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

I would want both these two sources (Walgreens & OfficeMax) locked out (X and K) but I'm afraid that it may lock other legit X's and K's out...

no?

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If there is not a LEO there running radar when the lockout occurs, then he will not be locked out. I think you need to reread CJR's stickie:
http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...fo-tricks.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

I would want both these two sources (Walgreens & OfficeMax) locked out (X and K) but I'm afraid that it may lock other legit X's and K's out...

no?

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I would refer you to my thread again however i will ask a few questions first.

1-What radar bands do the local LEO's use?

2-in the places where you want to lock out K & X falses do LEO's sit there?

3-are the falses near traffic lights?

4- where do you live.

5-how do you drive?

1-What radar bands do the local LEO's use?
X, K, Ka

2-in the places where you want to lock out K & X falses do LEO's sit there? Occasionally

3-are the falses near traffic lights?
Yes

4- where do you live.
RI

5-how do you drive?
Safely, I'm not a speeder in my Volvo Wagon

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

1-What radar bands do the local LEO's use?
X, K, Ka
2-in the places where you want to lock out K & X falses do LEO's sit there? Occasionally
3-are the falses near traffic lights?
Yes
4- where do you live.
RI
5-how do you drive?
Safely, I'm not a speeder in my Volvo Wagon

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Ok, you fall into a High/Low Risk scenario in the locations where LEO's sit and there is falses. Your area is particularly tuff because of the clustered falses. Your choices for theses areas LEO's occasionally sit are:

1- don’t lock out the area, however you will get falses all the time and will most likely ignore a real threat anyway.

2-Lock out the area, and drive cautiously. next time a LEO is there you will see if they run on a different MHz block.

3-Auto mode may work well here because of the traffic lights and driving slower. So you may not need TrueLock here anyway.

Obviously all the other, and maybe even these are Low Risk scenarios that can be locked out, mainly because your a safe driver and aren’t going to go too fast in areas where traffic lights and shops are.
I have a few places i locked the c**p out of, and LEO's sit there but because of the traffic and lights i couldn’t really speed if i wanted to.

You can still fool around with trying to lock out 1 signal within 2 but it doesn’t sound like its what you want to do anyway, or that easy for you to do because of the close proximity of falses.

A note though, none of us have ever seen a real LEO actively checking for speeders get locked out after a lock out area is created. Most instances Expert mode unlocked the lock out point and alerted.

Even if a LEO’s radar is exactly the same 30MHz block you will most likely pick it up before you even get to the lock out point anyway.

I personally would lock out those areas and drive cautiously or just use Auto mode there.

Last question: you get all theses falses on the rout your driving and not only in the shopping center you’ve been driving into?
You may be able to lock them out better on the rout your driving then turning around and powering down so not to get the outher alert if you only want to lock out one.

-

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CJR238

Ok, you fall into a High/Low Risk scenario in the locations where LEO's sit and there is falses. Your choices for theses areas LEO's occasionally sit are:

1- don’t lock out the area, however you will get falses all the time and will most likely ignore a real threat anyway.

2-Lock out the area, and drive cautiously. next time a LEO is there you will see if they run on a different MHz block.

3-Auto mode may work well here because of the traffic lights and driving slower. So you may not need TrueLock here anyway.

Obviously all the other, and maybe even these are Low Risk scenarios that can be locked out, mainly because your a safe driver and aren’t going to go too fast in areas where traffic lights and shops are.
I have a few places i locked the c**p out of, and LEO's sit there but because of the traffic and lights i couldn’t really speed if i wanted to.

You can still fool around with trying to lock out 1 signal within 2 but it doesn’t sound like its what you want to do anyway, or that easy for you to do because of the close proximity of falses.

A note though, none of us have ever seen a real LEO actively checking for speeders get locked out after a lock out area is created. Most instances Expert mode unlocked the lock out point and alerted.

Even if a LEO’s radar is exactly the same 30MHz block you will most likely pick it up before you even get to the lock out point anyway.

I personally would lock out those areas and drive cautiously or just use Auto mode there.

Last question: you get all theses falses on the rout your driving and not only in the shopping center you’ve been driving into?
You may be able to lock them out better on the rout your driving then turning around if you only want to lock out one.

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Im going to unlock them and drive through in Auto (instead of Highway which I've been using) and see if it alerts. If not, I'll leave it unlocked...if so I'll just lock out the area and hope for the best

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

Im going to unlock them and drive through in Auto (instead of Highway which I've been using) and see if it alerts. If not, I'll leave it unlocked...if so I'll just lock out the area and hope for the best

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Very good, I would be very interested to see your results with a LEO in the same areaas a lock out.

dont forget you may not be able to lock out those areas but the other ones you can will still make TrueLock worth it.

OK,I'm no 9500i expert but,if I understand this correctly....You want to separately lock-out X and K-band False alerts.

Go into program mode and disable K-band,then drive by false X-band source,Tru-Lock it and then power down 9500I.Now you'll have only false X-band source locked,w/o locking out false K-band source.

To Lock-out only one false K-band source w/o Locking false X-band source ,disable X-band ,drive by false K-band source ,True-Lock the false K-band source and power down 9500I

MEM-TEK ,djrams ,CJR238 ....will this work?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MetalFlame

OK,I'm no 9500i expert but,if I understand this correctly....You want to separately lock-out X and K-band False alerts.

Go into program mode and disable K-band,then drive by false X-band source,Tru-Lock it and then power down 9500I.Now you'll have only false X-band source locked,w/o locking out false K-band source.

To Lock-out only one false K-band source w/o Locking false X-band source ,disable X-band ,drive by false K-band source ,True-Lock the false K-band source and power down 9500I

MEM-TEK ,djrams ,CJR238 ....will this work?

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I've never tried it, but I'd think it surely would. Excellent idea!

repowering it worked

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

trying to lock out 1 signal at a time to avoid any possibility of a legit signal.
It saw the other false AFTER the lockout was confirmed. I can't drive 1/10 of a mile away from the first location without hitting another false in the area. Thats why I want to do one at a time.

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Hi RadarKid,

Ah, I see what you are trying to do. Keep in mind that door openers come in pairs. There is the radar module on the outside of the door, and there is a radar module on the inside of that same door. So, no matter what, when you lock out a door opener you are actually locking out a pair of radar transmitters.

Now think about X and K band radar guns. Ideally, if they were tuned correctly when built and during subsequent calibration checks, X band guns should transmit on 10.525GHz and K band guns should transmit on 24.150GHz. This usually is the case, yet is far from always being the case. Indeed, police X and K radar guns legally can transmit on anything between 10.500 to 10.550 on X band and on anything between 24.050 to 24.250 on K band. But most of the time police X and K band radar guns transmit on frequencies which are pretty close to 10.525 or 24.150.

So, it is rather pointless to worry about avoiding locking out any 10.525 or 24.150 signals from door openers. Much more important is to only lock out door openers if you are at least 200 feet from them so that the 9500i sees much lower signal intensities from the door openers and therefore sets the small 1/10 mile lockout radius. This, more than anything is key to Truelock working successfully at filtering out those door openers yet alerting to any X or K band radar you encounter once you are more than 1/10 mile from the lockout location of if you encounter strong police radar while you are within the lockout location.

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Originally Posted by MetalFlame

OK,I'm no 9500i expert but,if I understand this correctly....You want to separately lock-out X and K-band False alerts.

Go into program mode and disable K-band,then drive by false X-band source,Tru-Lock it and then power down 9500I.Now you'll have only false X-band source locked,w/o locking out false K-band source.

To Lock-out only one false K-band source w/o Locking false X-band source ,disable X-band ,drive by false K-band source ,True-Lock the false K-band source and power down 9500I

MEM-TEK ,djrams ,CJR238 ....will this work?

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good idea, My only concern is when X or K is turned off is that its not really off its just suppressing the alert and it may still lock it out. But its certainly worth a test.

maybe radar kid will do a test for us since he has the perfect scenario, and i was up till 2am last night trying to figure out his problem.:):rolleyes:

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

repowering it worked

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good, so you were able to lock out the X, than power down the 9500I and it alerted to the K down the street correct?

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Originally Posted by CJR238

good, so you were able to lock out the X, than power down the 9500I and it alerted to the K down the street correct?

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yep

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Originally Posted by RadarKid

yep

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Cool, I was worried they may of changed the software and my video below didn’t hold true anymore even though it was both K band falses.

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locking out the desired false signal, icon stops spinning power down the 9500I then power it up. See video:
YouTube - 9500I True Lock

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Originally Posted by CJR238

Cool, I was worried they may of changed the software and my video below didn’t hold true anymore even though it was both K band falses.

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one was a K and one was an X
both were falses though