Printable View
Just finishing up installing the LI now. When I turn it on it says "Connection to sensors 3 are poor or bad" then after a few seconds it says "parking aid deactivated".
I only have 2 sensors installed, in slot 1 and 2. Nothing in 3 or 4. Is this a problem or what?
just connect sensors to ports 2 and 3 because that is default setting on newer CPU's...Quote:
Originally Posted by DougiesGoinDeep
that way each sensor is on a separate channel, so if one is blinded by the sun and other isn't only one is operating with lovered sensitivity ;-)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivva
If a person starts with a 2 head then upgrades, a person with the right cable can change the settings at home right?
Also, can you get an LI enabled with 3 heads and only run 2 heads until a person buys the 3rd?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivva
perfect, thanks
you can use plain rs-232 pin to pin cable and LI sw to adjust many settings at will...Quote:
Originally Posted by focalcivic
Here's a quick list of the fields and help text for them in the current version of the software. I may have also added in a comment or info that was posted in a thread.
Values are what I saw as defaults. X indicated setting.
Parametric setings
Parking Aid Length 30 (after turning on device, time to be in parking mode 10000 for indefinate)
SIA recycle (15-255) 120 (Sun warning repeat time)
Light activator length 0 (Not available in this version)
Check for firmware updates
FIXED options settings
(Sun Interence Alert Setting) Affects warning, not sensitivity the meaning of SIA alert is to let the user know that sun may interfere with LI performance and to drive carefully
SIA Off
SIA Low X
SIA Mid
SIA High
(Unknown gun warning) 6.14 > just affects alerts, jamming occurs any setting
Unknown gun alert enable X
Unknown gun alert disable
(Parking mode switch installed or not)
Park SW En
Park SW Dis X
(Parking Aid Timer ON or Off)
Parking aid ON X
Parking Aid OFF
(Parking Sensor Sensitivity)
Middle Sensitivity X
Hi Sensitivity
Sensor Assignment
Front Rear OFF
Sensor 1 X
Sensor 2 X
Sensor 3 X
Sensor 4 X
Connect (connect to device)
Load Setup (load settings from device)
Upload (upload setting to device)
Voice (voice warning files preparator)
Quit (Exit program)
for more info try search here and on Li forum :-)
Definitely sign-up at the LI Forums, if you have a LI. :) It only makes sense!Quote:
Originally Posted by ivva
---
DGD, the reason ports 2 and 3 are used is for "split logic."
In this manner, if only one head up front is receiving sun-glare, the hope is that the other, due to whatever circumstances, may not be seeing the same glare, and thus remain unaffected.
More on this, from Ivan, directly, via the "Strange Problem" thread, in the "LI-Problems" sub-Forum of the LI Forums.
I'll definately check out the LI forums, but first let me just add that now the sensors are in ports 2 and 3 and there is still a problem.
Upon starting the car, it says "connection to sensors 2 are bad or poor". but if I manually switch it off then back on it says "welcome" then "parking aid deactivated". I just got back from a hundred plus mile drive (no lasers unfortunately, except for an Infiniti that only set off the V1) where I stopped a few times and got this error everytime. And everytime, turning it off then back on, while the car was running, seemed to correct the problem.
Low voltage perhaps?
I do have it plugged into a splitter with a GPS on the other side. The splitter says 3 amp max. Am I overpowering it?Quote:
Originally Posted by repeter
What do you mean by a splitter? When I think splitter I think of a cigaretter lighter splitter.Quote:
Originally Posted by DougiesGoinDeep
There is a BMW accessory that plugs into this outlet in the glovebox that is usually used to charge a small flashlight. So this accessory plugs into the flashlight outlet and turns it into an auxiliary power source (cigarette lighter style), then I have a splitter plugged into that (from autozone) that turns it into 2 auxilary power sources. My Harman Kardon GPS Navigation is in one, the LI is plugged into the other (after connecting the power wires from the CPU to a cigarette-lighter power thingy from Radio Shack). A little complicated but I hope that made sense. If you think that's too much for the wire to handle I'll try to find a different one...
Can you take a pic of this? Also, just hearing this does not sound like a reliable power connection to me, also what do you have it grounded to?Quote:
Originally Posted by DougiesGoinDeep
You are better off getting an add a fuse and going to the fuse box, that radio shack lighter plug will not get the job done.
I bet you are right. For the add-a-fuse, what amp/voltage should I be using? I'll take a pic tomorrow, its too dark now. But it is grounded (there is a hot and ground in the flashlight accessory power).
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougiesGoinDeep
Ok, start from scratch, go the parts store get an add a fuse, find a switched lead with key on at the fuse box no more than 10 amps, slot 1 is for the 10 amp fuse and slot 2 is for the LI I would put in 3 amp or less fuse in slot 2.
As for the ground, don't use that cig lighter thingy, get on the floor of your car and back by the firewall look for a nice metal screw going in to metal, you light need to pull the carpet back and look, ground it back there to the screw. I am betting you are not getting clean power to the LI.
I just did exactly that and I am getting the same error message, only when it powers on while the car is starting.Quote:
Originally Posted by focalcivic
I posted in the LI Problems section of the LI forums, but if any here can help, please do.
Thanks.
ZTZ1010 had the same problem with one of his heads. He called LI (while Cliff was gone on his biz trip) and spoke with customer service and they suggested using one of the spare telephone connectors and replacing the jack on the head. that did not work for him so the conclusion was that it was a bad head. LI says this is extremely rare (post corrections of the ones with the bad sealant problems), but I think someone in the CFL group also recently had a bad one. I think Cliff is back today.
I did have the same problem, however, when Cliff received my head today, he tested it in his CPU and it worked. I'm hoping this doesn't indicate a faulty CPU, but Cliff assured me whatever the case, he would take care of me.
Geez, you guys might get lucky and have faulty CPU's and get them replaced with the TruSpeed version for free.
I just switched up the ports, and I think it is a bad head...now the connection to port 3 is poor or bad (that was the head on port 2 earlier). I'll contact Cliff and see what he has to say.
Is there a cost to upgrade to the TruSpeed version? Does the CPU have to be sent back?
I believe there will be a cost to upgrade. For intellectual property protection reasons you will have to return the box. I do not believe the cost for the upgrade has been determined, but I suspect it will be in the range of $50, plus shipping (hopefully just to FL, not Croatia).
$50.00 shipped plus a Prepaid envelope to LI-USA. Yes, it comes and goes to and from LI-USA in Florida! :)
Cliff - C55
A couple of things you got a 2 head system right? Do you have the heads plugged into ports 2 and 3?Quote:
Originally Posted by DougiesGoinDeep
There seems to be a pattern perhaps with the low voltage issue. If you have your LI sharing voltage with your V1 or other low voltage RD etc, this can cause a problem for the LI's CPU, a problem which can be exasperated when the LI is first powered up with the vehicle NOT running as the LI CPU requires at least 12v and ideally, 13.8 v. Always wire your LI to it's own independent 12v source on your vehicle. This should hopefully eliminate the start-up, low voltage related issues with LI Users experiencing this problem.
Cliff - C55
My LI is on the same cigarette light circuit that powers my V1 and so far no problems similar to DougiesGoinDeep or ztz1010. I has my V1 mounted low on the dash for the greatest laser protection. Now that I have an LI I can move iy high for the best radar detection and can hard wire it. I'll switch over my LI at that point, but first I have to figure how to get the power from the passenger side *with the fuse box) to the driver side (with the cpu box)
i think that voltage drop occurs when electric starter runs becayse it needs very high current so car battery voltage drops for a short time. on some cars this voltage drop causes light bulbs to burn out often, so i would reccomend to power on sensitive devices after the engine is turned on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tambourine-Man
I wonder what happens if they use the kill switch to turn the LI off, then start the car, then power up the LI.
Then the LI would have 13.8 v and would function as designed. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Tambourine-Man
Cliff - C55
^ On DGD's problematic setup, IIRC via the LI Forums discussion of this issue, he said that using your proposed method above, Tambourine, returned a fully-functional, error-free, startup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tambourine-Man
I believe, in this DGD's case, that he's got an issue with intermittent power-drop (or spike) going to the circuit with the LI, when he switched the car through the ignition cycle, as ivva pointed out in the post above.
If I forget to power-down my jammers, say, at a quick run to the corner grocery-store, I get, about 50% of the time, this kind of an occurrence with one or the other of my LPPs.
He's going to need to find an uninterrupted circuit - for example, I use one for my ancillary gauges, which must complete calibration upon startup, and thus cannot experience such a voltage drop during the ignition cycle.