I will have my V1 tomorrow...The last one I had lasted 1 week before I sent it back because how noisy it was....What would be the best settings to use to minimized loud K band falses but still maintain real threat accuracy?
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I will have my V1 tomorrow...The last one I had lasted 1 week before I sent it back because how noisy it was....What would be the best settings to use to minimized loud K band falses but still maintain real threat accuracy?
Aggressive K Band Automuting and keep it in Little L. That's the best you can do. Refer to the stickies on programming.
I'd recommend using a low mute volume setting then automuting K-band up to 6 dots for 30 seconds (nearly the most aggressive setting). Run in little L mode.
That way, your detector lights up in the presence of any radar signal, but doesn't begin beeping obnoxiously loud until it's probably certain the radar source is a threat. This gives you the best combination of most awaredness and least annoyance.
I've been around the block with all the major detectors and by far the V1 is the one I feel the most "safe" with... it has simply a very wide field of vision so to speak. I'd rather see the V1 quietly light up one-dot K, squint and look off the highway and see a shopping center. That gives me peace of mind, compared to driving right beside a shopping complex and barely getting a single K-band alert reaching the road (i.e. my X50 and XTR-690)
Because the V1's great sniffing power, putting it to 6 dots will give you plenty of time to slow down if need be. Doesn't reach full lock until the LEO can get a read on your vehicle, supposedly.
The latter is probably untrue. For a straight constant-on encounter it's probably accurate, but I wouldn't ignore things until THEN for a real world attack.
The V1 even on 6 dot unmute still gives you plenty of time to react IMO from when it unmutes to when trouble strikes.
Nonetheless, the point is, it keeps you informed passively all the time.
I've heard it a few times, doesn't mean its entirely true though. Its usually not a problem as, for me, it hits full lock as soon as a line of sight is reached. Anything before that, is icing on the cake.
Knew I read it somewhere...
http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...t-reading.html
1 down (X band off)
7 down (K-band muting eneabled)
b down (30 second mute time for k-band)
e down (breaks mute if inital alert is 4 dots or stronger.)
f down (breaks mute once any k-band alert gets to 6dots)
j down (pop off)
Make sure you double check the chart on V1's website, but IIRC, these are the settings on my V1.
Hey, while we're all crippling our V1s, lets all pick a random wire in the RJ cord and cut it. Sounds fun, right?!?!
=P Just kidding!
In all seriousness, I am not at all a fan of letting the V1 categorize threats for me. I went about the "automute" feature a little differently...I made a remote mute button and mounted it on my stick-shifter. My hand always rests there, and a swipe of my thumb mutes alerts. I've gotten to the point where I find my thumb hovering over the mute button when I come up to known falses. Blinder, if you want I'd be happy to make you one free of charge. Just PM me your address. It's not pro work, but it's clean enough.
Alright..Just installed V1 and concealed display...Setting I used are:
1 down (X band off)
7 down (K-band muting eneabled)
b up
c down } (20 second mute time for k-band)
d up
e down (breaks mute if inital alert is 4 dots or stronger.)
f down (breaks mute once any k-band alert gets to 6dots)
j down (pop off)
Since you're probably a hobbyist with this stuff, consider the suggestion of a remote mute switch too -- being able to ack an alert by tapping a mute button closeby is another powerful technique for preventing your V1 from breaking the silence without losing awareness.
I just took a 10 mile drive and understand arrows when they are solid but what does it mean when say the forward arrow flashes?
With only 1 arrow lit, the arrow is solid.
When there are 2 arrows lit up, how do you know which one to pay attention to? The flashing one. Flashing means the computer thinks that it is the strongest/more significant alert.
Page 15 of manual.
You are right in the fact that there is a TON of info in it.
With the settings you have the V1 should be alot more quiet especially in city. The longer you have V1 the more you fall in love with the arrows.
I'd like to elaborate....The location of the strongest signal is identified but the flashing arrow when there are multiple bogeys. Also something you should pay attention to is the band identification. If the V1 is picking up a K door opener and a Ka cop at the same time, the band indicator with the strongest signal will flash. The accompanying flashing arrow will point to where the strongest band is. This really starts to get confusing when you have two bands identified, four bogeys, bouncing arrows, and are trying to make sure your 44oz Cherry Limeade that you just got at Sonic for half price doesn't turn into a 44oz seat decoration. This may or may not have happened to me today as I pulled out of Sonic toward a construction zone that happened to be hosting an accident with 3 responding LEOs... Luckily every conceivable situation in which this kind of overload happens would involve the operator being -10 psl already.
Just to go off on a tangent, though...I could see this happening where the driver's car (a black corvette?) was being pursued by a group of very pissed off LEOs that recently stumbled upon a website that hosts videos that make a mockery of their traffic stings. This type of situation would, indeed, result in a plethora of bands, bogeys, and arrow discrepencies adding noise to an already tense situation. I'm sure that this is just a theoretical, fantastical situation though. Surely this wouldn't happen to anyone that views these forums frequently. ;)
rc
I have been running my V1 for a couple days in the setting I selected and I'll have to say with the 20 second muting and other setting I chose it is no more noisy than my GX65 without using the lockout......Final word....V1 WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE?
On falses its the same...On the real deal threats all I can say is HOLY SH*T!
Glad you like your V1 -- Yeah, from my experience, the V1 is significantly more sensitive than the Escort M4 platform, PARTICULARLY on off-axis threats there's not even a contest. If you ignore alerts under 4 dots, it's more or less the equivalent behavior of a M4 without GPS locking... And on the highway, it really provides you a level of confidence that I haven't seen another detector match.
welcome to the :zombie3::zombie3::zombie3: family.
When you set up your V1 the right way and you use it for a couple weeks you will start asking your self how you went through life without one :D
Work's more important? :p
I beg to differ...:eek: Somehow I'm addicted to this forum... soooo much info to learn.
I am officially not a fan. I have only briefly used my V1 with custom programming, but I often bash custom programming here. I decided that in all fairness I should try it out. I'm done. I set it to automute K for 20 seconds. The lady LOVES this new change. I told her she can drive seperate. It's "A" for me. That will be all.
rc
I use 30 seconds of muting and unlock at 4 LED's. I love the arrows and bogey counter of the V1, but it does not hold a candle to my 9500ci. It's not even a close race between the two.
The V1 is however the best windshield mount detector on the market in my opinion.
The only thing I did was turn off "X", keep POP on and run in "A". Not sure if that is the best way but so far so good, but i do get some alerts near shopping centers etc. Any other ideas as I am driving from Connecticut to Florida in a week or so and want to try & make it to the orlando area in 16.5 hours (1210 miles)!!