How have others mounted their rear laser jammers?
I am debating as to whether epoxy and horizontally mount to a hanging area above my license plate or perhaps something with using a rear license plate bracket.
TIA.
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How have others mounted their rear laser jammers?
I am debating as to whether epoxy and horizontally mount to a hanging area above my license plate or perhaps something with using a rear license plate bracket.
TIA.
Double sticky automotive tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by pds22
x2. That gives you the most flexibility and ease of adjustment. It is coincidentally the easiest method too. On some cars it can be a problem, if they have a weird LP light assembly or trunk release, but not too often.Quote:
Originally Posted by category4
A lot of us use black licence plate frames on our rear plate just because it makes the jammer heads blend in better, and almost completely unnoticeable.
Post a pic of the rear of your vehicle.
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...arcomplete.jpg
^ As of about two months ago, with the arrival of my replacement rear LPP head, I finally took the time to properly "tuck" the wiring for my LPP and the ZR4, so that they no longer route through the externally visible conduit. :o
The LI heads to either side have been there, now, for nearly 2 years.
Mounted with 3M Automotive Trim/Molding tape.
As long as you pay proper attention to prepping the area, you'll be just fine.
:)
I mounted my rear LPP heads in a similar way to TSi+WRX ^ but with a different method of sticking them there.
First I wrapped them very tightly in black electrical tape. Then I carefully cleaned the area under the overhang above the rear plate where I had planned to mount them and stuck a 1 inch square piece of black sticker on there.
Then I got a hot glue gun and stuck the heads to the car using the black stickering under the trunk overhang as a means to protect the car's paint when I would be eventually removing them.
Similarly, I had previously wrapped the LPP heads in black electrical tape to save the paintwork on them from the hot glue also and it would be a bloody hard job to scrape it off them (and the car) also.
The only tricky bit is trying to align them properly before the hot glue goes off (which is fast) but once you get it right, they seem like they are welded on there.
I used the same pattern . I wrapped both head Li in electricalQuote:
Originally Posted by corkguykev
tape . I pierced the rear buns above the bumper , there is plenty
of space to fit a home made fitting that will hold the head .
2 holes had to be drilled to let view the sensind /emitting .
You see 2 eyes on each side , in the buns above the bmper.
The buns are black plastic pieces that run from the bumper to the
lights housing .
Very interesting, brothers corkguykev and Eloi! Good ideas, both! :)
---
To also clarify my post a bit:
In my area, stealth is not an issue - that's why my LPP and ZR3 rear heads are so exposed.
Even with there now not being an external conduit, these two items are still plainly highly visible, with my current setup. Although I have the capability to cut into either the bumper skin or the trunk's external trim panel (which is why I'm able to so easily route wiring - http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...nishPanel1.jpg , that panel detaches from the rest of the trunk proper), I am currently unwilling to do so)
With the ZR3, it is simply mounted, via its standard bracket, to the bottom mounting holes of the license plate - which is through-and-through to a matched set of receiving holes in my trunk. I was lucky that this was a feature of my car, as it allows for good stability of that head, mounted as-such.
The LPP head above the plate actually takes advantage of the plate as a secondary securing "device." The LPP bracket is bent at a near 90-degree angle so that the flat portion of the bracket is behind the plate. That portion is stuck to the exterior of the trunk, under the plate, via 3M Automotive Trim/Molding tape, which, with the plate laying overtop, makes this item as secure as any hard-mount.
There's a hard rubber (a cut piece of suspension mount) "shim" above the LPP, to achieve level.
'' Very interesting, brothers corkguykev and Eloi! Good ideas, both! http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...lies/smile.gif ''
Thanks. You are one the excellent asset to this community .
I would post piscs but feel paranoid to let the other side
learn too much of our tricks . Wish we have a ''special section''
truely away for the other's side eyes ... :cool:
What do you do with 3 jammer systems? I thought you could only run one to jam concurrently, and others on recieve?Quote:
Originally Posted by TSi+WRX
Only testing will tell if they interfere with each other. Some setups it does not seem to bother, others (like mine) it causes major problems. Type if car, install, types of jammers all seem to make a difference. I suspect color of car makes a big difference also.Quote:
Originally Posted by batman75What do you do with 3 jammer systems? I thought you could only run one to jam concurrently, and others on recieve?Quote:
Originally Posted by TSi+WRX
^ Yup.
The LPPs are basically backup for my LIs. The ZR3s I simply run in "Receive Only" mode.
Without proper first-hand testing, I'm very hesitant to run all three systems, at the same time.
From just looking at my front setup, where the front ZR3 heads are stacked under the LIs, I believe that they will most likely result in destructive cross-talk, particularly when there's a vehicle or other reflective surface close-by or in the darker hours. I think that my LPP/LI setup, front, is unlikely to produce the same, but that is a true unknown. In looking at the rear, I would highly suspect that it's just going to be a total jumble of destructive cross-talk, should anything more than one system be active, in terms of jamming output.
Experience has shown that I get good real-world protection with either just the LIs or just the LPPs, in terms of frontal assaults. Trying to use both at the same time opens up too many unknowns, and that's never good for battle. :o