Hardwired V1 & Concealed Display - 09 Ford Fusion

After waiting years to convince myself I should buy a radar detector, I took the plunge and got a Valentine One (v3.872) with a Concealed Display. The current set-up isn’t finalized, but it’ll work for now and I figured I’d share some pictures for anyone else curious about where I’ve mounted the detector, and how a V1 concealed display can be integrated in our Fusions. As a final note before I begin detailing the install, feel free to request additional pics of anything related to the install. I know I did a lot of reading other threads before I tried to take off certain trim panels, so I’d be glad to help make the process easier for others. Now on to the good part:

Hardwire details: I tapped into the positive lead wire for the 12v accessory plug (constant power) to power the V1 using the included hardwire adapter. I added a relay between the 12v source & V1 hardwire adapter, which is switched via an accessory power source that’s on when the key is in “accessory” or “on” and turns off when you open the door.

PICTURES! :popcorn:

Boxes…
http://i46.tinypic.com/29w50qu.jpg

The Valentine One radar detector
http://i46.tinypic.com/35l5lwj.jpg

Mounted with the V1 suction-cup mount as high as possible, while still allowing detector to sit level
Wire is run above the headliner, down the passenger A-pillar, and behind the dash to the V1 hardwire adapter.
http://i49.tinypic.com/j67gno.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/iwq1eg.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/1z4a3jo.jpg

Here’s what the mount & cord look like when I take down the detector. I usually tuck the cord even closer to the edge of the headliner.
http://i50.tinypic.com/n6t9ua.jpg

It’s not too noticeable from outside the car, unless you’re looking dead-level from in front of it and its back-lit (like the garage door being white behind it)
http://i49.tinypic.com/dgqc06.jpg

A couple other pics… you can’t really see the detector through the side windows unless you get pretty low.
http://i45.tinypic.com/s15d9y.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/fy1pqr.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/dlj9sy.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/1sjeq8.jpg

Now for the more intensive part of the install… I wanted to try and mount the V1 remote display in place of the “FUSION” logo in the center console bezel.
http://i48.tinypic.com/24pyte1.jpg

Once you remove the bezel, the “FUSION” piece is only held in by 4 tabs that you squeeze together to remove it.
http://i49.tinypic.com/2zqsro9.jpg

Here goes the first destructive step, I had to cut out the piece of plastic that the clock wire connector is held in place by on the non-clock bezel.
http://i49.tinypic.com/2jfc9zr.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/9vl6hw.jpg

Just a pic of where the remote display will end up. I had to shave down the bottom edge of the opening with a file in order to get just enough clearance for the display to fit
http://i47.tinypic.com/11vnyhd.jpg

Conveniently, the backside of the bezel’s switch clusters sit at approximately the exact depth needed to mount the remote display so its flush with the front side of the buttons, so I used a strip of steel strapping secured by the inner-bottom screw of each switch cluster with a washer to hold it
http://i50.tinypic.com/23upg1t.jpg

There is also JUST enough room to plug in the RJ14 connector (phone cord) into the side of the V1 display and still have it sit centered in the gap
http://i46.tinypic.com/b3vsx2.jpg

Here’s the finished backside of the bezel. Not in this pic, but I also ended up replacing the long phone cord with a 3” and a female-female connector, so I only have a small bit of cord that I can disconnect from the rest of cord that runs behind the dash when I want to completely remove the bezel.
http://i45.tinypic.com/v7cqxz.jpg

And here’s what the front side looks like now
http://i45.tinypic.com/14o0ilv.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/29xdd78.jpg

The only thing I really have left to do is figure out what to do about the gap on either side of the display. I carved symmetrical wood pieces to fit, but I’m not sure if I’d like painted wood in there. I’d rather have matching plastic, or pieces upholstered in a black fabric. Ideas are welcome if you have any.
http://i46.tinypic.com/2vjd3es.jpg

Anyway, here’s a few pictures of the current “finished product”
http://i46.tinypic.com/4l3879.jpg

Pics of display from left to right: (1)Start-Up (2)On
http://i48.tinypic.com/veyw5f.jpg http://i50.tinypic.com/359miok.jpg

Pics of display from left to right: (1)Off (2)Start-Up (3)On
http://i50.tinypic.com/20r0hvq.jpg http://i49.tinypic.com/nwg84p.jpg http://i50.tinypic.com/2s7whtg.jpg

To wrap up this post, I'd like to invite any and all comments, questions, criticism.
Also, please reply with suggestions on how to fill in the gaps around the remote display for a more finished look.

Apply putty, let dry, sand down, and paint.

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Originally Posted by DrCoke

Apply putty, let dry, sand down, and paint.

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x2 then find a silver paint that matches
\other then that great install looks good

Good God that's beautiful. :thumb2:

You know the hardwire kit only comes with a 1A fuse, right? The V1 does not take a lot of juice at all, so you probably didn't need to do the relay thing, but if it works there's nothing wrong with it.

http://images.tmuscle.com/forum_imag...-over_9000.jpg

Thanks for the comments. One other idea I had to fully conceal the display was to make an upholstered or painted faceplate with tinted plexiglass that fits the whole opening where the display currently is, then mount the display a little further back behind the plexi. My only concern is that the concealed display's sensor for its auto-dimmer feature may think its always dark out (and therefore keep the display at minimum brightness) if its hidden behind tinted plexi. Any thoughts?

Buy a piece of black ABS plastic off from an installer or off fleabay for about $10 bucks. Make a good template and then fill the gaps with the ABS and it will look stock.

If you really want to save a few bucks, cut the ends off off your Fusion emblem and then slide them into place.

Great location for the remote and very creative thinking.;)

Nice install.

Excellent install, thanks for sharing the pics.

Nice! That's gonna be super slick when you get the ends worked out!

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Originally Posted by WickedSlow

To wrap up this post, I'd like to invite any and all comments, questions, criticism.
Also, please reply with suggestions on how to fill in the gaps around the remote display for a more finished look.

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That's some truly fine work! My suggestion would be to use the original "FUSION" plastic piece as part of a hinged cover which flips open and reveals the CD behind it; when the cover was flipped up and closed, your dash would look 100% stock. This would improve your stealth, making it tougher for thieves (and any cop who stops you) to see the CD.

Very nice install. :cool:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by swarga

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WickedSlow

To wrap up this post, I'd like to invite any and all comments, questions, criticism.
Also, please reply with suggestions on how to fill in the gaps around the remote display for a more finished look.

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That's some truly fine work! My suggestion would be to use the original "FUSION" plastic piece as part of a hinged cover which flips open and reveals the CD behind it; when the cover was flipped up and closed, your dash would look 100% stock. This would improve your stealth, making it tougher for thieves (and any cop who stops you) to see the CD.

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What do you think the best way to make a it flip up or even down.

Pretty slick - Do you find it odd to look down there?

Thanks for the comments.

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focalcivic - What do you think the best way to make a it flip up or even down.

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I thought about doing the flip-open "FUSION" button, but creating the hinge & a way for it to lock shut would require quite a bit of precision fabrication. I'm guessing the best way to do it would be a mechanism like those used with the "sunglasses" compartment in overhead consoles (scaled down), with a spring for tension and a push-to-lock, push-again-to-open type latch to keep it closed.

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Jermstyle - Pretty slick - Do you find it odd to look down there?

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The center console is not ideal for the serious lead-foot driver, as its a little difficult to quickly glance at the display and then back to the gauges for your speed, but it works well enough for me. I'm getting much more used to relying on the sounds of the V1 and the display is well within my peripheral field of view to tell which arrows are lit.

Lookin' good bro!:thumb2:

That's a super way cool mod...thanks for sharing!!!

I would of used a Visor mount but i really like this install and like where the display is mounted.