Yes. Please tell us is it a 3.871?
Printable View
Yes. Please tell us is it a 3.871?
I have never had this heat problem and was in Arizona for a month and it was super hot.However,i think if the radr is in the car and the AC kicks in for a bit it cools it down.
It's a 3.864.
We just got back today and it kicked @$$ again!
3.2 mile Ka warning!:eek: (probably 34.7)
And one forward-facing 1/4 mile warning from a Fl DOT car that was probably 35.5.
I ran a test here in Charlotte yesterday, 08/06/2008, it was 99 degrees F outside :eek:, thought it might be appropriate to measure the V1 temperature and the dashboard.
To preface, ’02 Camry, silver, sat in the sunlight till I drove my better half to work in the afternoon at about 1:30 PM. The V1 was in the house till I mounted it on the suction cup mount low on the windshield in direct sunlight. I know, I know, arrrgh, mount high! It’s my wife’s car, no hardwire and no speeding, I just like the company of the V1! I have no other comments, LOL! Well, on the return trip I did take advantage of the big hill on Providence Rd, hammer down!! :D
Still warm inside the car, get home, dash is still pretty warm to the touch and so is the V1. I leave the V1 on the windshield to cook. Run inside the house, get the temperature gauge and run a temperature check and catch a 15 minute phone call. The gauge is good from 0 degrees F to 220 degrees F. Head back out to the car. It’s been about 30 minutes, it’s hot in the car!
I check the center of the dash board, 138 degrees F, :eek: how do you want your eggs? V1, checking the top of the metal case, 138 degrees F also. Me, I’m sweating bullets and want to get out of the car, doors and windows are closed to keep the heat in just like in a parked car. Son calls, needs some help, I’ve got to go, end-o-test, I thank my son!! :p
So for 30 minutes with direct sunlight at 99 degrees F outside, doors and windows closed, it’s 138 degrees on the dash and so is the V1 case. I can’t tell you how hot it is in the case, but the outside case temperature was 138 degrees F. The V1 operating temperature is -4 degrees F to 158 degrees F. That is only 20 degrees left and you’re out of the operating zone.
I checked the Passport 9500i for its operating range under Specifications, I did not see any listed, but I may have missed it, anyone?
It gets a whole lot hotter in other parts of the country than Charlotte and I could have left the V1 in the sun all day and really cooked its butt. Wonder how hot it would have gotten over 138 degrees F during most of the day on the dash like in a business parking lot?
Knock on wood my V1 has held together, but I do put it up in it’s case and lock it in the glove box so it is NOT in sunlight and NOT as hot as the rest of the car in the summer, YMMV.
BC ;)
Thanks Bridge. That gives us a very rough I idea was to how hot it actually gets, and where we are within the temperature tolerance.
How did you measure the temperature?
I used a stem type gauge with an indicator on top, forgot the manufacturer. To verify the accuracy get crushed ice and water, mix and run the stem down in it. It should read 32 degrees F so if any adjustment is needed you can recalibrate the gauge.
Obviously it is not as good as a digital unit that is on the market, I’ll be the first to admit that, but it should be very close. I had not seen anyone do a reading on the interior temperatures and knew it was of consideration especially with this thread. Although I could have missed a thread with that info in it. I was a district manager in the parts division for many a year with the current largest automotive manufacturer around. The service rep’s used to use those devices to test A/C vent temperatures in customer relations cases and other areas where temperature readings were needed. They seemed to hold up as far as accuracy.
If someone has a digital device that can be calibrated and can sweat out the test in an enclosed vehicle, man it was hot!!!, :eek: I would like to see those results too. The V1 was being baked on top by the sun and on the bottom by the 138 degree F dashboard. That would hold true for any RD mounted in that position. On my other Camry that my son is borrowing I have the V1 mounted just below the passenger side visor behind the tint band where the V1 laser band is positioned just below the tint band, "slightly" cooler area.
It just looks on the surface that the inside parked vehicle temperatures, engine and A/C off, parked for a couple hours, V1 in direct sunlight, is getting close to the maximum range of the V1 during these really hot 100 degree F + summer days. At least I was about 20 degrees F shy of the 158 degrees F V1 maximum.
I also began to question what the operating temperatures are on some of the other RD’s. As I said, I did not see any listings under Specifications for any of the Passport line up on their main page, maybe someone can spot that for me. Got lazy and didn’t check Whistler or the others, might be interesting.
BC ;)
Good thread, Thanks for the info. If it starts acting up please do mention it.
I live in Orlando,FL and have a black on black car where the AC vents can not point straight up soooo this thread is very important to my decision on which detector I buy in a couple months.
It was 105+ in Vegas and the Hoover dam this weekend and my V1 never missed a beat on the windshield trip out to Vegas or back from Los Angeles.Quote:
Originally Posted by CobraSTylE
I believe that I probably had a temperature issue back in June with my V1 (ver. 3.826). One day, it completely missed a strong oncoming Ka-band constant-on -- just displayed "A" the whole time and never made a peep. I know the radar was active because I used my STi in spec mode to check (about 34.7 GHz). For those who post in this thread, which versions of V1 hardware/firmware were you running (both before and after any repairs)? Mine is now upgraded to ver. 3.872, but I have not had enough hot weather to really test the new version.
On decoding the version number, I believe that any change in the hundredths digit indicates a hardware change, while any change in just the thousandths digit indicates just a firmware tweek. I would guess that raw susceptibility to heat would be purely a hardware issue, but that particular temperature limits could probably be adjusted in firmware.
Also, if one version of hardware turned out to be populated with sub-par components, it is possible that VR could have identified and replaced individual components when a unit went in for repair, rather than replacing the whole board. Thus, a repaired unit of one hardware type might not have had a version change, while unrepaired examples of that same hardware version might still have the sub-par components and resulting heat susceptibility issues.
I have a 3.826 and it does the same thing. When it's hot as hell out, the range drops pretty dramatically, even after it was "tuned up".