Electrical Gremlin

[robcollins5]

I've roused an electrical gremlin. My setup has been working fine for some time now, but yesterday (after replacing my CB Radio) I've encountered a problem with my V1. I've blown the 1-am in-line (Hardwire Kit) tube fuse twice. The first time, obviously, and the replacement, the moment I hit the power switch without a chirp from the V1. Please review the (HORRIBLE) wiring diagram below and help me brainstorm where the problem might be.

Here are some notable items:
The CB that I replaced does NOT share a fuse with the V1 on the "block"
The Mute Button had disconnected itself, but was repaired at time of second fuse blowing.
The Concealed Display is NOT plugged in at the moment, because I killed it.
The button, at some point, had something sticky spilled on it. (Not by me.)
We have recently moved from Winter (0-30 F) to Spring (60-80 F) which in Indiana is an overnight change.


LINE LEGEND
RED - 12V POWER
BLACK - GROUND
GREEN - RJ11 TO V1
PURPLE - RJ11 TO CONCEALED DISPLAY
BLUE - RJ11 TO MUTE BUTTON

rc

[MEM-TEK]

Unplug the mute button cable from the Y phone splitter and then see if you blow another fuse. If you do, get rid of the Y splitter and try again. If you still blow fuses, then either the red/black hardwire cable is shorting somewhere, or the RJ11 cables are shorting somewhere. Where is the mute button mounted? Is it mounted through a hole on a metal plate?

[category4]

Unplug the V1 and see if it still blows a fuse. If not I suspect the switch that someone spilled stuff into.

[robcollins5]

Switch is taped (electrical tape) to my gear shifter, center console. The RJ-11 wire starts under the steering column (my electrical "Nexus"), runs over to the center console, under the cupholders, and up through the boot. It peaks out just beneath the knob. Picture Below.



Switch wiring diagram: (V1 is to the far right.)

[category4]

If you unplug the V1 and it still blows the fuse at least you know it's not the V1 or the cable going to the V1. If it does not blow try switching the cable to the V1.

[robcollins5]

Alright, so far we've got this list of things:

1. Mute button. (Disconnect and try to boot V1)
2. On/Off Switch. (Change out switch)
3. Switch Ground. (Not possible. Shares ground with other devices)
4. Hardwire Kit Ground. (Not possible. Shares ground with other devices)
5. RJ-11 Splitter. (Remove splitter and try to boot V1.

Here's what I'll probably do.

1. Try V1 in lady's car with cigarette lighter power.
2. Change out switch.
3. Plug V1 back into my vehicle without any addons.
4. Add Splitter.
5. Add CD cord.
6. Add mute button.
7. Swear loudly because "solution" never presented itself despite problem being solved.


rc

[MEM-TEK]

I wonder if somehow one of those wires near all of the toggle switches has gotten pinched in the emergency brake mechanism?

[robcollins5]

Negative. All wires have been zip tied and stowed. The pictures I posted were from original install, prior to "Final Touches"

rc

[MEM-TEK]

Unplug the V1. Leave the fuse which keeps blowing out of the fuse holder. Use your multimeter on its lowest resistance measurement setting and see if the resistance is rather low (indicating current flow) between the inline fuse contact which is on the RD side of the hardwire's inline fuse holder and chassis ground. If so, then its all but guaranteed that somewhere along the rest of the hardwire the positive cable's insulation is frayed through and shorting to chassis ground.

[BMW-MZ3]

robcollins5,

do you have the part # or pinout for your led toggle switch?

I have used a few in the past (and currently) and the way you have yours wired with the ground going to opposite the of the led is inverted from the type I use.

Did you ever disconnect the spades when you removed your V1?

Does your V1 power up if you use the cig lighter cord?