M27 Prep work

[OPTiK]

When I get my M27's I may not have a block of time to install them without rushing, I was wondering if there was any prep work that I could do to speed things up? I was thinking if the connector that go into the heads was removable then I could just buy some wire and do all the running/layout ahead of time which would save a ton of time. Any info would be appreciated.

-OPTiK

[Tom]

When I get my M27's I may not have a block of time to install them without rushing, I was wondering if there was any prep work that I could do to speed things up? I was thinking if the connector that go into the heads was removable then I could just buy some wire and do all the running/layout ahead of time which would save a ton of time. Any info would be appreciated.

-OPTiK

Not much. The wire that goes to the heads is NOT removable and it ends with what appears to be an RJ-11 connector. You cannot even connect it to another wire.

[robcollins5]

There is prep work.

Under your dash, get a 12v (live) wire and a negative (ground) wire ready. If you want the radio mute functionality, run the wire from the back of your deck down there too. Apply butt connectors to both (or all three).

Decide where you want your LED, switch, and speaker. The speaker is about 1.5" in diameter and is plenty loud enough to be left stuffed under the dash. The LED is a standard 5mm. I used a #2 philips head to "grind" my way through some plastic. I used a screw driver because this "archaic" method left friction for my LED to rest snuggly in the hole without glue. I can't help you on the back-side diameter of the switch. I am not using it for power (it is just always "on" under the dash) but am instead using a switch in-line with the power to the CPU so that the I can stick with the trend in my vehicle. I can tell you that the switch is a push-through from topside to inside. Meaning, you need to detach the wires from it, feed them through the inside of your dash, out the hole, and after re-attaching the wires to the switch push the switch INTO the hole from the exterior of the dash.

Check your fire-wall for a pass-through point. If you don't have one, drill two 1/4" holes. The head wires have rubber push-plugs on them to seal up the hole around the wires so don't worry about having to re-insulate your firewall.

Decide where you want to put the heads. The dimensions can be found on the blinder website, but off the top of my head I believe they are: 103mm x 77mm x 18mm. Again, I might be remembering improperly. I took a 2x4 and with a jig-saw cut myself a piece of prep wood that size so that I could cut my grill.

The mounts for the blinder heads are 90 degree elbow types. They can be attached to the heads in quartiles, meaning you can screw the blinder head UP, into something, DOWN, into something, BACK, so that it is coming straight out off of the mounting surface, or if for some reason, the fourth way although that would leave your head "buried" in your mounting surface and would limit its view of the road.

The mounting brackets are independent so you can have one facing BACK, and one facing DOWN if necessary. This is the way I had to do it since my grill is angled drastically.

Once you get your blinders, you'll just have to place the heads (hopefully you've developed some sort of idea where), feed the head wires through your firewall, snip and strip your power, ground, and possibly mute wires...attaching them to the butt connectors you have ready.

NOTE: BE SURE THAT THE BLINDER POWER SWITCH IS SET TO "0" OR "OFF" BEFORE CONNECTING THE 12V WIRES!!!!!

Once your heads, alert wire, and integration wires (12v, ground, mute) are connected to the CPU, you can THEN turn the Blinder switch to "II" and wait at least 1 minute to allow programming of the heads.

I'll try to get some pictures of my install posted so you can see what I meant about mounting brackets. I actually had to get a little creative.

rc

P.S. The plugs on the head lines ARE RJ-11 but they are not the standard "6-pin" type. They are the ever-so-slightly-smaller 4-pin type. The wires have PLENTY of line. Possibly 20' or more.

[OPTiK]

Thanks for the detailed post robcollins5!

[robcollins5]

Edit: Scratch that. PM Sent.


rc

[Shogun]

Thanks for the detailed information. Does the LED provide indication if there's an alert? So, it's in addition to the speaker?

[rocky2]

On my older Blinder the light goes from green to red when I get hit, proably the same for the new ones.

[crazyVOLVOrob]

You going to have it installed soon?

I'll be in upstate NY from Sunday til Wednesday (16th to 19th).

[OPTiK]

You going to have it installed soon?

I'll be in upstate NY from Sunday til Wednesday (16th to 19th).

Looks like I probably won't, but I'll keep you posted! It's all about when it gets in, slight chance it will get here early next week, at which point I'd do a quick install with 3m tape mounts until i modify my grill.

[OPTiK]

Does anyone know if the blinder has voltage regulators built in? Or what the voltage/current tolerances are? Does it have to be a solid 12V (what about current?)? I looked at the online manual and it doesn't specify too much. Thanks!