Question for people who fabricate things...

[brick]

I'm thinking that I would like to make another dash pod for my remote display like I had in my old car. Thing is, I don't want to make it out of lexan again because it didn't hold together well and it looked really tacky. Instead I'm thinking about fabricating something from MDF (medium density foam) since I can sculpt it to pretty much any shape I want. But where do I get it? Are there local sources for that kind of thing or do I have to order blocks of the stuff online somewhere?

Also, what's the best way to finish the surface for painting? Some kind of "mud" or epoxy?

[SmaartAasSaabr]

I don't know, but what I would do is cut a hole in the dash and integrate the remote display into that.

[mark1]

have you considered that most foams will break down under ultravilet sunlight. after awhile it looks like it melted and becomes brittle and shrinks.

anyway, this is my experience with most foam products, please read manufacturers lititure on product before you sink alot of time into it and see it shrink and melt before your eyes.

[brick]

The melting under UV thing definitely sounds like an experience to be avoided. If it really is a UV issue I would think that I could avert it with some kind of external covering material. Thanks for the heads up.

As for integrating it into the dash, there is one really good place right where the clock is. I've seen it done and it looks great, as if it belongs there. The only thing I don't like about that location is that it's father from the instrument cluster which means I have one extra spot that my eyes have to sweep. Who knows, I might still consider it if I can't make a pod that I like. I'll need materials either way, though.

[RacerX]

use fiberglass and bondo.
fiberglass is great for the basic form and bondos good for the fine details and finish.

make your basic form, using paper, cardboard, or whatever works, then use fiberglass layers to build it up, on both sides so it's sturdy, then a coat or two of bondo to finish it. when bondo just starts to set you can easily carve it for some detail then sand it down when it sets. some primer and color matched paint then you're done.

now this is the simplified answer if you've never done it before, but it works. you just may have to spend some time working on it.

plus home depot and most auto parts stores have them.

[bearcat]

use fiberglass and bondo.
fiberglass is great for the basic form and bondos good for the fine details and finish.

make your basic form, using paper, cardboard, or whatever works, then use fiberglass layers to build it up, on both sides so it's sturdy, then a coat or two of bondo to finish it. when bondo just starts to set you can easily carve it for some detail then sand it down when it sets. some primer and color matched paint then you're done.

now this is the simplified answer if you've never done it before, but it works. you just may have to spend some time working on it.

plus home depot and most auto parts stores have them.

are you stupid !!! if you use alot of bondo all it will do is fall out or crack.Never use bondo if you can help it.

[brick]

I think Saabr may just win this one. I've taken another look at the clock assembly and I think that I can make the remote display fit cleanly within that piece of trim. The location isn't as bad as I was originally imagining; right smack in the middle of the dash above my climate control panel, so significantly easier to see than the radio. It will be tight but there's a chance.

[RacerX]

are you stupid !!! if you use alot of bondo all it will do is fall out or crack.Never use bondo if you can help it.

who the **** are you calling stupid, jackass!
i spent years working for a general contractor and we did a lot of custom work with bondo over the years, a lot of it in exterior locations and to this day he has never had a problem with it "falling out" or cracking. And this is with years of exposure. just because you may have that problem doesn't mean that everyone else does.

you need to pay attention to what you read. bondo to fill in the cracks and grooves to smooth out the finish won't crack and fall out. did you actually read what he is making???


brick, sorry to hijack your thread. good luck on your project. be sure to post before and after pics when you're done.

[brick]

brick, sorry to hijack your thread. good luck on your project. be sure to post before and after pics when you're done.

Don't worry about it. I appreciate everyone's advice. I'm going to take everything apart after work to see if there is really room there or if I need to find another spot. If anything exciting happens you can bet I'll post pictures within 10 minutes :lol: .

[RacerX]

:lol:
if it does fit behind it i think the biggest trick will be to get in there and mount the display secure enough so it doesn't fall in when you hit the mute button. :)

[brick]

:lol:
if it does fit behind it i think the biggest trick will be to get in there and mount the display secure enough so it doesn't fall in when you hit the mute button. :)

I don't think that will be much of a problem for two reasons. First, I think that the only way to get it to fit will be to have it more or less flush with the surface, supported by the plastic piece that currently holds the clock. That could change but it's a really, really tight squeeze otherwise. (This may not happen at all if I don't like what I see when I open the remote display.) Second, I took care of the need for a mute button by installing my remote audio adapter down by my right leg. When mounted in the position that I consider optimal, the control knob of the main unit is blocked by my rear view mirror. This will make life easier if I get a jammer because I would probably conceal the V1 in the third brake light housing.

[brick]

After three hours with a dremel tool I have a working installation. I decided to go for the center console installation and I think that it's going to look good when it's done. Not exactly uber stealth but I don't really care as long as it turns out clean. Basically I just removed the guts of the digital clock and cut out a hole so that the remote display sans case can fit into the cut-out. THe only problem is that a) i mocked it up with hot glue which is going to have to go and b) there is a very visible and ugly gap below the display that needs to be filled and I'm not sure what with. I'll go out and try to get a picture so you can see. Be forewarned: it's a work in progress and needs lots of cosmetic attention!

[brick]

Alright, this picture is terrible but you get the idea.

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/3116/img01518rn.th.jpg (http://img300.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img01518rn.jpg)

What do you think I should use to fill in the gap? Bondo?

[411]

Brick ,

I have the best solution for you . Go at an hobyist shop , look for a generic product called ''overn bake clay '' , or more known as Fimo clay , somepeople do earring with it.

It comes in many color , it is not messy ,it is safe = no harmfull ingredients . You mold it the way you want , then when happy with the form , texture it , then you bake it in regular over , after cooked you can paint it , cut it . It is inexpensive +- $3.00 for a small block like 2'' X 1'' X 1''.

If your wife is reluctant to use the oven , you can use a hot air paint stripper to heat slowly your art work !

Look what your creativity can do :

http://images.scrippsweb.com/HGTV/2005/09/12/cds1836_3_e.jpg



I made a blocker for a air vent in my car because my wife cannot support the flow of air conditionned .

Let us know your final solution .

[bearcat]

are you stupid !!! if you use alot of bondo all it will do is fall out or crack.Never use bondo if you can help it.

who the *BEEP* are you calling stupid, jackass!
i spent years working for a general contractor and we did a lot of custom work with bondo over the years, a lot of it in exterior locations and to this day he has never had a problem with it "falling out" or cracking. And this is with years of exposure. just because you may have that problem doesn't mean that everyone else does.

you need to pay attention to what you read. bondo to fill in the cracks and grooves to smooth out the finish won't crack and fall out. did you actually read what he is making???


brick, sorry to hijack your thread. good luck on your project. be sure to post before and after pics when you're done.
Thats funny because i remember when i worked in a body shop that people would bring in there cars with aton of bondo in it. Most of them were all cracked and one side car (tryed to shave door handle but used bondo) fell out.

[brick]

Thats funny because i remember when i worked in a body shop that people would bring in there cars with aton of bondo in it. Most of them were all cracked and one side car (tryed to shave door handle but used bondo) fell out.

Ahh, ok. I guess the difference is that you're talking about rice rockets piled high with the stuff, probably right on top of rust and paint. We're talking about using it to condition the surface of or fill holes in small interior parts.

As for the oven bake clay, I like that idea. The main problem, though, is that it's going on to plastics and an electronic device that probably wouldn't hold up too well in the oven.

[eviltwin67]

You could use J-B Weld. A lot of people use it for headlight fabricating when retrofitting projector HID projectors into reflector headlight housings. Here is what they say on their site:

"Use J-B WELD as an adhesive, laminate, plug, filler, sealant, and electrical insulator. Squeeze out equal portions from the black and red tubes. Mix thoroughly. Clean surface to be bonded. Apply J-B WELD, and let it cure. That's all there is to it!

Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F. J-B WELD is super strong, non-toxic, and safe to use. Before it sets, you can clean up with soap and water.
What does it bond to?

Virtually any combination of iron, steel, copper, aluminum, brass, bronze, pewter, porcelain, ceramic, marble, glass, PVC & ABS, concrete, fiberglass, wood, fabric, paper -- just about any porous and non-porous material."

[brick]

That sounds like it could work. Sounds like other epoxys that I have used in the past which would make it strong as anything.

[Arvetus]

use abs plastic. I've never made stuff with it, but I've seen people that do, and it works really good.

[A-TownNavi]

this is prob late to post but i was reading all the treads and ran across this. but MDF can be bought at home depot or lowes, here in ga its only $6.47 for a 4ft by 2ft sheet of 3/4" thick. i built custom boxes to house all my subs. by the way can anyone tell me how to post pics here on a post. im not a huge computer guy, i know alot but there are a few things i dont know how to do. id like to post pics of my car but im not sure how. i have a digital camera so i know its not hard.

but as for your prob brick, just get a caulking gun and fill it with liquid nail and paint over it. LOL jk jk.

[brick]

I worked with the display today and I think that I'm on the right track. I had to do a little more work to the trim to get the display itself to rest straight which was pretty simple with the moto tool. I cut some plastic that was lying around to form the bulk of the cowl. It's only roughed-out but the basic shape is similar to the instrument cluster. I'm using PC-7 epoxy paste to fasten the whole thing and fill the gaps. The basic plan is to let it set up overnight, then sand it down closer to the final shape tomorrow. I'll know at that point if I have any more voids that need to be filled.

[brick]

And now, here's the meaning of life:

http://www.radardetector.net/viewtopic.php?p=56368#56368