Hard wire question?

[fab68]

I hard wired my c-350 from the side of the glove box. This was not easy and I could not get to the back of 12v outlet in the glove box. I found two cables running on the front right pillar (Red and brown) I test for 12v. I tapped in to them and have power. The problem is that it is not swichted. Will this drain my battery? If so do I go back and remove the 3m clips from the wire? I do not want to mess up my car. Thanks for the help.

[EscortRadar]

The detector will drain your battery if you leave it on for a long period of time. I recommend finding a switched 12V supply, you can then leave your detector safely switched on all the time. Not only will the detector safely come on and off with your vehicle it will also protect it from voltage drains and spikes associated with starting the vehicle on a constant 12V supply.

You might want to leave the 3M clip on. If you take it off inspect the wire for damage. If the wire is damaged, such as strands broken, then you should properly splice it.

Our current windshield mounted detectors use no more than 2A of power so any 12V switched line should work for them.

[KahneFan]

I had my Whistler on a constant on for about a month with no issues. I have since switched to an alternating fuse. However, I did that just because I didn't like my RD glowing at night. TBH, I don't think most RD's would draw enough to drain current batteries... unless you're parked for a few weeks. If you're turning your car over daily, it charges your battery enough for an RD. When I used to sport the CB's (pre-cell phone days), I had ALL of my CB's on constant on fuses and NEVER had a battery die on me.

[fab68]

Thank you Radar Rep and khanefan. I just did not want to pay $150 for a direct wire. So if use the RD and take it down leaving the cord behind, this will not drain the battery correct?

[ELVATO]

150$ for a direct wire? What do you mean by direct wire?

Either way, you should be fine. That's how I run mine (non-switched and take it down.) As for the tap in clips, I think you're technically supposed to leave those in, but if you're going to take them out, wrap up where the tap was with electrical tape.

[fab68]

that is how much a local installer is charging.

[category4]

I have the V1 in my truck wired to a constant on source. If I do not drive the truck for 4 or 5 days it will kill the battery. If you drive the car most every day you should be fine. You can always power the detector down manually if you are going to be away for an extended amount of time.

[ELVATO]

that is how much a local installer is charging.

ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY DOLLARS?!:eek:

Damn, I'll give you a deal and do it for $100. :lol: Chit, I think CC used to do it for 30 bones.

Cat, how old is the battery in the 150? IIRC, they have a tendency to just die on some ppl. I would hope you should be able to leave something that draws as little power as a detector up for more than a couple days without having to worry about a dead battery.

Either way, the problem is solved by taking down your detector. Also works as a thief deterrent. :)

[category4]

that is how much a local installer is charging.

ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY DOLLARS?!:eek:

Damn, I'll give you a deal and do it for $100. :lol: Chit, I think CC used to do it for 30 bones.

Cat, how old is the battery in the 150? IIRC, they have a tendency to just die on some ppl. I would hope you should be able to leave something that draws as little power as a detector up for more than a couple days without having to worry about a dead battery.

Either way, the problem is solved by taking down your detector. Also works as a thief deterrent. :)

Battery is 2 years old. Might be the GPS unit and cell phone charging with the V1 that hurts it a bit.:D