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  1. #11
    Speed Demon
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    Quote Originally Posted by Red Dragon
    i am thinking about this too since i have the detector on a switched 12V source, not to shut it down if something happens, but to turn it off if i feel like not having it on
    it does have a pwr button, why not use that?

  2. #12
    Professional
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiterabbit05
    Quote Originally Posted by Red Dragon
    i am thinking about this too since i have the detector on a switched 12V source, not to shut it down if something happens, but to turn it off if i feel like not having it on
    it does have a pwr button, why not use that?
    IMHO, it's mainly a convenience for those who have their detectors hardwired to the electrical systems of their respective cars. It will also come in handy for those of us who do NOT have an STi Driver, in areas where RD's are illegal, to shut the power off quickly.

  3. #13
    Old Timer
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    Jun 2005
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    New Hampshire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Victor
    I am probably going to install this kill switch soon, as my wife and I are planning a trip to Toronto. Do I need to solder the wire to the kill switch, or can I just wrap the bare ends around the switch posts??? If solder is needed, what type should I use?

    Also, as a side question, how in the **&*#! do you post pictures to the board???
    If the switch has blade-type contacts, the best bet is to get some insulated crimp-on female terminals at an autoparts store or RadioShack. Cut the red wire on the hardwire kit, strip the ends, crimp the terminals on, then push them onto the switch blades.

    You could solder it instead, but that makes it a bit more difficult to disassemble if necessary. Plus you'll want to insulate the connections so they don't touch anything and cause a short.

    Don't just wrap the wires around the posts, they won't make a good connection and they'll just fall off. Wrap & solder, or use crimp-on connectors.
    If I'm passing you on the right, YOU are in the wrong lane!

    If speed kills, how come I'm still alive?

    Active Countermeasures: V1 3.858, Escort Redline, Beltronics STi-R+, LI Dual 7.1x CPU/8.7 Heads (front)
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  4. #14
    Newcomer
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    Jul 2007
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    People's Republic of Virginia
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    So if the Radio Shack switch is rated at 25 amps does that mean it could be installed in a circuit that is up to 25 amps or only in a 25 amp circuit?

  5. #15
    Lead Foot
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Austin,TX
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    336

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2ndDue
    So if the Radio Shack switch is rated at 25 amps does that mean it could be installed in a circuit that is up to 25 amps or only in a 25 amp circuit?
    Its listing the maximum continous current. Itll be fine for your detector which draws well under 1 amp.

    BTW, that has to be one of the worst wiring diagrams I have ever seen. :P

  6. #16
    Newcomer
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighVoltage

    Its listing the maximum continous current. Itll be fine for your detector which draws well under 1 amp.
    Thanks! That's what I figured but just wanted to double check.

  7. #17
    Lead Foot
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    Jun 2007
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    Charlotte, NC
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    Just to clear any doubts:

    Code:
      
     ,------------------------------------------.
     |                                          |
     |  -  (Ground)                             |
     |                                          |
    Car                                         |
     |                                          |
     | + (Fuse Box)                             |
     |                                          |
     `----------------o_o--------------------[O oo]========D (Phone Cord)
                            
                      /i\                     /i\
                       |                       |
                       `--- Kill Switch        `--- Smart Cord Box
    Obviously this is not to scale in any way, you'll want the kill switch closer to the Smart Cord Box (if you have it) or at least mounted somewhere you can reach rather easily and quickly.

    Yes, as HighVoltage said, it lists the maximum amperage it can handle. As kpatz said, you should use a crimper and put some female connectors on it so it can easily slide on and off the switch and also provides an insulated connection. If you do plan to solder, use a 25-30 watt soldering iron and some basic 40/60 rosin core solder.

  8. #18
    Professional
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    Success!!! After months of not having time to do it, I finally installed my kill switch. I will post pictures later.

  9. #19
    Old Timer
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    Aug 2006
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    Orlando, FL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Victor
    Success!!! After months of not having time to do it, I finally installed my kill switch. I will post pictures later.
    LOL, you must be a very busy man.

  10. #20
    Professional
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    Quote Originally Posted by ELVATO
    Quote Originally Posted by Victor
    Success!!! After months of not having time to do it, I finally installed my kill switch. I will post pictures later.
    LOL, you must be a very busy man.
    Yes, as a matter of fact I am. By the time I get home from work, running around on weekends, etc., I have no time left. I just happened to be home from work yesterday and found a few minutes to do it. All in all, it took me under 20 minutes to get it hooked up. Works like a charm!

 

 

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