LI Question

[Laser-InterceptorUSA]

$50.00 shipped plus a Prepaid envelope to LI-USA. Yes, it comes and goes to and from LI-USA in Florida!

Cliff - C55

[focalcivic]

I just did exactly that and I am getting the same error message, only when it powers on while the car is starting.

I posted in the LI Problems section of the LI forums, but if any here can help, please do.

Thanks.

A couple of things you got a 2 head system right? Do you have the heads plugged into ports 2 and 3?

[Laser-InterceptorUSA]

There seems to be a pattern perhaps with the low voltage issue. If you have your LI sharing voltage with your V1 or other low voltage RD etc, this can cause a problem for the LI's CPU, a problem which can be exasperated when the LI is first powered up with the vehicle NOT running as the LI CPU requires at least 12v and ideally, 13.8 v. Always wire your LI to it's own independent 12v source on your vehicle. This should hopefully eliminate the start-up, low voltage related issues with LI Users experiencing this problem.

Cliff - C55

[Tambourine-Man]

My LI is on the same cigarette light circuit that powers my V1 and so far no problems similar to DougiesGoinDeep or ztz1010. I has my V1 mounted low on the dash for the greatest laser protection. Now that I have an LI I can move iy high for the best radar detection and can hard wire it. I'll switch over my LI at that point, but first I have to figure how to get the power from the passenger side *with the fuse box) to the driver side (with the cpu box)

[ivva]

My LI is on the same cigarette light circuit that powers my V1 and so far no problems similar to DougiesGoinDeep or ztz1010. I has my V1 mounted low on the dash for the greatest laser protection. Now that I have an LI I can move iy high for the best radar detection and can hard wire it. I'll switch over my LI at that point, but first I have to figure how to get the power from the passenger side *with the fuse box) to the driver side (with the cpu box)

i think that voltage drop occurs when electric starter runs becayse it needs very high current so car battery voltage drops for a short time. on some cars this voltage drop causes light bulbs to burn out often, so i would reccomend to power on sensitive devices after the engine is turned on.

[Tambourine-Man]

I wonder what happens if they use the kill switch to turn the LI off, then start the car, then power up the LI.

[Laser-InterceptorUSA]

I wonder what happens if they use the kill switch to turn the LI off, then start the car, then power up the LI.

Then the LI would have 13.8 v and would function as designed.

Cliff - C55

[TSi+WRX]

I wonder what happens if they use the kill switch to turn the LI off, then start the car, then power up the LI.

^ On DGD's problematic setup, IIRC via the LI Forums discussion of this issue, he said that using your proposed method above, Tambourine, returned a fully-functional, error-free, startup.

I believe, in this DGD's case, that he's got an issue with intermittent power-drop (or spike) going to the circuit with the LI, when he switched the car through the ignition cycle, as ivva pointed out in the post above.

If I forget to power-down my jammers, say, at a quick run to the corner grocery-store, I get, about 50% of the time, this kind of an occurrence with one or the other of my LPPs.

He's going to need to find an uninterrupted circuit - for example, I use one for my ancillary gauges, which must complete calibration upon startup, and thus cannot experience such a voltage drop during the ignition cycle.