Hardwired V1 & Concealed Display - 09 Ford Fusion

[WickedSlow]

After waiting years to convince myself I should buy a radar detector, I took the plunge and got a Valentine One (v3.872) with a Concealed Display. The current set-up isn’t finalized, but it’ll work for now and I figured I’d share some pictures for anyone else curious about where I’ve mounted the detector, and how a V1 concealed display can be integrated in our Fusions. As a final note before I begin detailing the install, feel free to request additional pics of anything related to the install. I know I did a lot of reading other threads before I tried to take off certain trim panels, so I’d be glad to help make the process easier for others. Now on to the good part:

Hardwire details: I tapped into the positive lead wire for the 12v accessory plug (constant power) to power the V1 using the included hardwire adapter. I added a relay between the 12v source & V1 hardwire adapter, which is switched via an accessory power source that’s on when the key is in “accessory” or “on” and turns off when you open the door.

PICTURES!

Boxes…


The Valentine One radar detector


Mounted with the V1 suction-cup mount as high as possible, while still allowing detector to sit level
Wire is run above the headliner, down the passenger A-pillar, and behind the dash to the V1 hardwire adapter.






Here’s what the mount & cord look like when I take down the detector. I usually tuck the cord even closer to the edge of the headliner.


It’s not too noticeable from outside the car, unless you’re looking dead-level from in front of it and its back-lit (like the garage door being white behind it)


A couple other pics… you can’t really see the detector through the side windows unless you get pretty low.








Now for the more intensive part of the install… I wanted to try and mount the V1 remote display in place of the “FUSION” logo in the center console bezel.


Once you remove the bezel, the “FUSION” piece is only held in by 4 tabs that you squeeze together to remove it.


Here goes the first destructive step, I had to cut out the piece of plastic that the clock wire connector is held in place by on the non-clock bezel.




Just a pic of where the remote display will end up. I had to shave down the bottom edge of the opening with a file in order to get just enough clearance for the display to fit


Conveniently, the backside of the bezel’s switch clusters sit at approximately the exact depth needed to mount the remote display so its flush with the front side of the buttons, so I used a strip of steel strapping secured by the inner-bottom screw of each switch cluster with a washer to hold it


There is also JUST enough room to plug in the RJ14 connector (phone cord) into the side of the V1 display and still have it sit centered in the gap


Here’s the finished backside of the bezel. Not in this pic, but I also ended up replacing the long phone cord with a 3” and a female-female connector, so I only have a small bit of cord that I can disconnect from the rest of cord that runs behind the dash when I want to completely remove the bezel.


And here’s what the front side looks like now




The only thing I really have left to do is figure out what to do about the gap on either side of the display. I carved symmetrical wood pieces to fit, but I’m not sure if I’d like painted wood in there. I’d rather have matching plastic, or pieces upholstered in a black fabric. Ideas are welcome if you have any.


Anyway, here’s a few pictures of the current “finished product”


Pics of display from left to right: (1)Start-Up (2)On


Pics of display from left to right: (1)Off (2)Start-Up (3)On


To wrap up this post, I'd like to invite any and all comments, questions, criticism.
Also, please reply with suggestions on how to fill in the gaps around the remote display for a more finished look.

[DrCoke]

Apply putty, let dry, sand down, and paint.

[grasshopper]

Apply putty, let dry, sand down, and paint.

x2 then find a silver paint that matches
\other then that great install looks good

[supercowpowers]

Good God that's beautiful.

You know the hardwire kit only comes with a 1A fuse, right? The V1 does not take a lot of juice at all, so you probably didn't need to do the relay thing, but if it works there's nothing wrong with it.

[Stealth Stalker]

[WickedSlow]

Thanks for the comments. One other idea I had to fully conceal the display was to make an upholstered or painted faceplate with tinted plexiglass that fits the whole opening where the display currently is, then mount the display a little further back behind the plexi. My only concern is that the concealed display's sensor for its auto-dimmer feature may think its always dark out (and therefore keep the display at minimum brightness) if its hidden behind tinted plexi. Any thoughts?

[jmccam]

Buy a piece of black ABS plastic off from an installer or off fleabay for about $10 bucks. Make a good template and then fill the gaps with the ABS and it will look stock.

If you really want to save a few bucks, cut the ends off off your Fusion emblem and then slide them into place.

Great location for the remote and very creative thinking.

Nice install.

[fire65]

Excellent install, thanks for sharing the pics.

[srtga]

Nice! That's gonna be super slick when you get the ends worked out!

[swarga]

To wrap up this post, I'd like to invite any and all comments, questions, criticism.
Also, please reply with suggestions on how to fill in the gaps around the remote display for a more finished look.

That's some truly fine work! My suggestion would be to use the original "FUSION" plastic piece as part of a hinged cover which flips open and reveals the CD behind it; when the cover was flipped up and closed, your dash would look 100% stock. This would improve your stealth, making it tougher for thieves (and any cop who stops you) to see the CD.