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  1. #1
    Power User
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    Aug 2005
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    Southlake, TX
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    4,136

    Default wANTED: Accord ECU Wiring diagram

    need ECU wiring diagram with colors for 5th gen (specifically a 97, USDM EX)

    I need atleast these wires:
    RPM signal (Tach??)
    Ignition power
    Ground
    Throtle signal (TPS??)
    Presure signal (Airflow)
    and Knock (If it has a knock sensor....... which I dont think it does)

    i need to know because im going to be installing a new Apex-i S-AFC afir/fuel controler

    thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Speed Demon
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Minneapolis
    Posts
    540

    Default

    http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/

    Try there, you might have to login.

    Otherwise, try checking out other honda forums, there are probably TONS of them.

    Another option, call APEXI, they should have them or try a Honda dealer.


    Why are you going to put an air/fuel controller on an Accord?

  3. #3
    Power User
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    Aug 2005
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    Southlake, TX
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    Default

    burn lean = less fuel consumption + more power

    that and when I get another car this car turns into a project car, so bit by bit im building it up for the time being while putting away some cash for another car

  4. #4
    Lead Foot
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Connecticut drivers are morons
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    355

    Default

    How are you going to tune it? I highly recommend using a stand alone wideband O2 gauge, or a dyno with a wideband gauge to keep the air fuel ratio safe for the motor. The Autometer O2 gauges and EGT temps are not accurate at all for tuning air fuel.

  5. #5
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cleveland/Shaker Heights, Ohio, USA
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    7,732

    Default

    ^ I'd recommend an integrated wideband, either through a datalogger for road-tune or, as you recommended, a dyno tune.

    Although I've always gone with the route of professional tuners from well-respected tuning houses, I still ran into the situation this past Fall of having a semi-custom map running leaner than ideal (not quite "dangerous," but definitely not good - note, though, that this wasn't necessarily the fault of the map, as it was specifically designed for me to resolve some specific driveabiltiy issues, and was not intended to be a final tune).

    While I thought that it looked OK during my road runs (during which I visually monitored my wideband O2), integrated wideband runs told a different story.

    I think that using a standard "narrow band" O2, plus an EGT with the probe mounted in a conservative location - combined with conservative safety parameters - a easy, conservative, "safe" tune would be OK. But definitely, it would be far from ideal both in terms of power extracted as well as safety.

  6. #6
    Power User
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    Aug 2005
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    Default

    I WILL get it dyno tuned, that much is certain, I dont wanna kill my motor as much as I want another one, I cant afford that crap, then again the place I know here charges 150 an hour for duno tuning........ but either way ill run it on the factory MAP or do a general setting until I get it done (more than likely the factory MAP and just using it in Moniter mode

    I will do the install myself is why I wanted the diagram, I found out the pin outs for my ECU but it lacks a color code of any sort, but I suppose thats OK the pin out is good enough, found my ECU the other day and its pretty accesible, although to really get in there I might have to take off my passenger seat (Its in the passenger footrest area)

  7. #7
    Old Timer
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    Nov 2006
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    Cleveland/Shaker Heights, Ohio, USA
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    Default

    Cool beans. I think that none of us wanted to see you stranded and without a ride, that's all.

    And as an aside, I totally feel what you're going through. I, too, want a built engine and a much bigger turbo - but in addition to the necessary supporting modifications, that unfortunately greatly exceeds my modest monthly hobby budget, as a family man. ops:

    ---

    As for your ECU, I would go with your idea and go with the pinouts. Wiring colors can unexpectedly differ (even though they shouldn't), and in many older vehicles, may be unreliable due to discoloration of the sheath.

    I'm sure you already know this, but I can't help but say again to be careful with your wiring. Take the time to solder where-necessary, and see if you need to use an insulated/isolated wire for the knock-signal output.

    I ran into problems with the latter on my TurboXS Knock/Shift-light install as the wire with which I tapped the OEM knock-sensor from the ECU snagged some RF feedback, and that actually caused severe enough phantom-knock to drop my vehicle's dynamic timing advance as well as advance multiplier. :shock: ops: A friend of mine had a similar problem with his tap as well.

  8. #8
    Power User
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    Default

    ^^^^ ouch, i'll have to watch out for what im doing I guess

 

 

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