O2 Sensor Eliminator / Simulator

[OpenRoad]

I have a problem to solve. I have a Ford E-350 XLT 15 passenger van, Triton V-10.

They changed the smog rules in California and now you cannot clear the check engine light and pass the test. I have a trouble code throwing on one of my O2 sensors that has been around for years. Up to now not a problem. I replaced the sensor, but the light comes back on. I took it to some local smog shop who spent hours trying to figure out what was wrong but never did. They tried to ding me with $200 but I balked as the original estimate was $100 - even so a lot of money to toss for nothing in return. Ford dealership wants $130 up front for a diagnostic. The van passes emissions with flying colors, totally clean exhaust.

I just became aware of O2 Eliminators which should do the trick. Just send the right code back to EC and be done with it. Anyone have experience with these?

[GTdriver]

They work...just bought a set for my Mustang in fact.

[OpenRoad]

They work...just bought a set for my Mustang in fact.

Was wondering if I need to buy a set of 2, or just the 1 that has gone bad. It is the one downstream from the catalytic converter.

[Cips]

Yup, they work. I'd buy the two so they don't conflict with one another and possibly throw a code again.

[PMoth]

If you've replaced the sensor and the light comes back on, something in your system is faulty, such as wiring or the cat. The rear o2 sensor monitors emissions from the cat to ensure it is working correctly. If there is too much flow, or too much of any type of emissions, the light is triggered.
I'm surprised the shop could not find the problem. The o2 spacers are cheap enough. I'd throw them in to see if the problem goes away. If not, good luck with tracking down that gremlin.

[NormSky]

They work on GM cars too. They eliminate the secondary O2 sensors, not before the cats. Crawl underneath and take a look if your have two cats with a sensor behind each.

I assume you mean the first sensor before the cat.

[OpenRoad]

They work on GM cars too. They eliminate the secondary O2 sensors, not before the cats. Crawl underneath and take a look if your have two cats with a sensor behind each.

I assume you mean the first sensor before the cat.

In my case the 'downstream' (after cat) sensor.

[ELVATO]

Yea, people use them all the time when they take out their cats. If you were so inclined, I do believe they can also be turned off with tuning. But, I doubt you are interested in any sort of performance gain for this van?

[OpenRoad]

I was about to purchase a O2 Eliminator this morning, but the price tag was $100.... my intuition said to bite the bullet and go to dealership for analysis first.

Good move as it was a simple short in wiring to ECU. $100 and its fixed. Had I bought the O2 Eliminator, it would of still been a problem.

And ELVATO, Damn, time to get another avatar... My daughter chuckles when I am browsing pages with it...

[Sector_15504]

You also have to remember, when you get something like that done, especially the O2 sensor, the computer has to reset in the engine, which can take anywhere from 5 to 200 miles, before they will smog it. You need to drive it on the highway for awhile between 60-65 mph (yea, i know) WITHOUT cruise control (yea, i double know) WITHOUT excessive throttle or braking (I didnt make the rules)

I just got my grandmother's car smogged, and someone just replaced their O2 sensor, but the computer had not reset yet, so they have to come back AFTER paying for the first failed test.

Ask the guys at the smog place to plug in their ECU checker BEFORE testing ANYTHING, and then they can tell if it will pass BEFORE they do anything....

Funny note: The guy who had to drive his car asked, "So I cant hit the brakes at all? What if I have to stop?" *face palm*