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Thread: Screw rust.

  1. #1
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    Default Screw rust.

    Replacing the shocks on my 17 year old car.

    The rears came off easy, but on the right front the lower shock bolt had rusted into one piece with the shock. After applying significant force, I was able to get to a point where the bolt and the metal sleeve around it would just rotate in the rubber bushing. I tried whacking it out with a BFH with no luck. I ended up having to use an angle grinder to cut the eye at the bottom from the rest of the shock, and then cut through the whole eyelet and bolt twice so I could slip it out.

    Now the garage smells terrible because I punctured the shock body and some oil leaked out.

    That was yesterday, I haven't worked up the courage to touch the left front yet...

    Almost every time I try to work on something on this car that was exposed to the elements, there's something that's extremely unhappy to be removed from whatever it's had time to rust into. I swear I soaked every bolt with PB-blaster the day before. I even soaked them with PB-blaster a couple months ago in anticipation of doing the shocks now. It helps but not enough.

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Screw rust.

    A good compressor and an impact wrench will change your life.

    Quote Originally Posted by supercowpowers View Post
    Replacing the shocks on my 17 year old car.

    The rears came off easy, but on the right front the lower shock bolt had rusted into one piece with the shock. After applying significant force, I was able to get to a point where the bolt and the metal sleeve around it would just rotate in the rubber bushing. I tried whacking it out with a BFH with no luck. I ended up having to use an angle grinder to cut the eye at the bottom from the rest of the shock, and then cut through the whole eyelet and bolt twice so I could slip it out.

    Now the garage smells terrible because I punctured the shock body and some oil leaked out.

    That was yesterday, I haven't worked up the courage to touch the left front yet...

    Almost every time I try to work on something on this car that was exposed to the elements, there's something that's extremely unhappy to be removed from whatever it's had time to rust into. I swear I soaked every bolt with PB-blaster the day before. I even soaked them with PB-blaster a couple months ago in anticipation of doing the shocks now. It helps but not enough.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Screw rust.

    yeah..impact wrenches are the best..

  4. #4

    Default Re: Screw rust.

    I can feel your pain on this. I was introduced to Aerokroil when I started in the trades some 14 years ago. To me, this is the best stuff to use on any rusted over bolt. Throw down some kitty litter on the oil and it will help with the smell and removal of the spill. Either way, at least your not bending over and paying for someone else to handle it.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Screw rust.

    I always wanted to get some air tools but I know that when I go down roads like that I end up spending lots of money...

    The problem in this case wasn't that I couldn't get the nut off - that was the easy part, but the bolt was rusted inside the metal sleeve in the shock. I could get it to spin around in the rubber bushing but it wasn't coming out. Would impact wrenches help in situations like that, to break stuff free before I end up making a mess out of it?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Screw rust.

    Usually, because they bang on the nut and break it free. They are really necessary for rusted parts, although torches also work on most things. I don't like heating shocks though.

    Quote Originally Posted by supercowpowers View Post
    I always wanted to get some air tools but I know that when I go down roads like that I end up spending lots of money...

    The problem in this case wasn't that I couldn't get the nut off - that was the easy part, but the bolt was rusted inside the metal sleeve in the shock. I could get it to spin around in the rubber bushing but it wasn't coming out. Would impact wrenches help in situations like that, to break stuff free before I end up making a mess out of it?

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Screw rust.

    Update: I got the same bolt out on the left side in about one minute with no difficulty. The trick was that I was so afraid of it that I PB-Blasted it twice a day for two days before touching it. There was a nice pile of rust particles on the control arm after I pulled it out. It sounds like Kroil does the same trick, but better, so I'll try that next time.

    The garage is smelling better. Part of that could be perception because I had an annoying hangover while I was breathing the shock gas fumes, which just about made me want to barf. I'll mop it up good when I'm done and it should be alright.

    I don't have any other big projects after this, so air tools can probably wait but might be a great idea for Christmas...

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Screw rust.

    I don"t like using heat on gas shocks...poof! Make sure you wear safety glasses and hear plugs.


    I used Kroil for weeks on turbo exhaust manifold and the studs still broke even after heat. Also soaked with PBlaster before that. I'm sure the liquids work on non heat sensitive parts.

 

 

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