We agree to disagree then..Originally Posted by djrams80
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We agree to disagree then..
Radar kid is right,
Sometimes truelock WILL lock out a K band leo in the same 1/2 mile. I have followed a leo running c/o K band into one of my lock out locations. Within this 1/2 mile the 9500i became silent!!! Still behind him after the lock out location. The 9500i lit up like a Christmas tree.
What I have found. If you lock out a false signal of 24.135 K band and there is a cop there later running 24.150 K band. (This is what a tuned K band should be.) The leo will be locked out also. There is a 50 hz swing in the signal.
Anyone?
This has been talked about a long time ago when the 9500i just came out.
Matt
Ok, this is starting to get ridiculous. If RadarKid newly came on to this board with these problems I would have sympathy because TrueLock in his specific case is at higher risk and he would have known nothing.
This is not the case if I just got a 9500I I would certainly read a sticky about what I just purchased. We all have referred him to many, many posts (his own and ours for guidance).
We are not blindly raving about TrueLock and pushing that it’s perfect, no RD is. We are simply stating to use TrueLock with your brain. It takes at least a few months to learn how any RD works.
I apologize to the original poster because he was sharing his experience and got direct negativity to his happy purchase rather than constructive guidance.
TrueLock is a god send to most and can be useful even in the most risky scenarios if the 9500I user thinks before he locks.
I will post my 9500I & truelock comments below and ask once more for people who wish to use TrueLock to read it. Not skim it and go do what ever they want anyway, but utilize my experience with 3 different 9500I’s over tens of thousands of miles.
I have seen allot of new 9500I users and wanted to give some of my insight on this very different RD (It takes time & effort to truly appreciate what the 9500I can do for you, and time to read through this long detailed post.
The Reason for TrueLock: The biggest complaint from RD users is the amount of falsing, the 9500I is designed to dramatically decrease the amount of false alerts. You will no longer become so desensitized to common and frequent false alerts that you will be able to react more appropriately and quickly to real threats.
A driver who hears an alert and does nothing because they here it every day is at more risk than the driver that has the quiet detector and jumps out of there seat when the silence is broken. A driver is more likely to react to an alert on a quiet detector than a "noisy" detector.
What TrueLock does for You:
TrueLock allows you to "mute" a specific false alert signal at a single location. This allows you to "silence" common false alerts in your area without the extremely dangerous risk and tactics used in other detectors that do this by users turning off an entire radar band or blindly ignoring/muting alerts in that area. The GPS capability allows the 9500I to know specifically where it is located at any given time and thus lockout the false signal frequency in that very small specific area without the risks associated by turning off the entire X or K band. TrueLock is nothing more than a very advanced means to "mute" a false alert area and not to have to physically press your mute button every time you pass that area. No more having to listen to countless local false alerts, no more repeated pressing of your mute button. Now when your detector does go off you will know its only because there is most likely a real threat in your vicinity.
Section-2/\__________________________________________________ __
To use TrueLock simply press the Mute button (a short total of three times) to confirm with the Passport 9500i that the signals are not an actual alert - the Passport 9500i then stores in memory received radar on your driving path with the signals frequency and its GPS location (Shows spinning satellite icon when locking out radar). If you wish to unlock a location you must have icon spinning in that location, then press the mute button 2 times to unlock it. This will unlock all blocked falses in that specific lock out point (presently there is no way to clear all memory of lock out points, you must go to the specific lock out point and do the above). TrueLock on the 9500i allows you to lock out approximately 30MHz wide blocks of false radar sources in each band (Does not lock out whole band). The 9500i cannot lock out Ka band signals (presently there are no typical falsing sources such as door openers or motion sensors that are Ka band signals).
K-Band is split into approximately eight segments of ~30MHz depending on how it has self-calibrated, and derived from the received radar frequency. Like so:
[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/CHADJR%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
X-Band is split into segments as well (13-15 MHz Ea), and derived the same way.
Very important note: If you are too close to the false you can get a strong alert that can overflow into another 30MHz block (Ghosting), Therefore creating a larger lock out block. So try to lock out with less then 1/2 of a full alert, the weaker the signal the better. This will also help keep the lock out area small.
When properly used, the 9500i's GPS based True lock technology can be very effective at locking out unwanted door opener signals on your dally commute. Pass the false signal at least several times on separate days in order to guarantee that this signal is, indeed, a false (in expert mode) then lock them out if the signal always seems to be the same. The 9500i records signals for a very short time/distance, approximately 1/10 to 1/2 of a mile depending on how many falses there are after you lock out the location. So make sure you use expert mode to see how many alerts you are getting in your lock out area before you lock out. Since the technology is GPS based, it is a good idea to lock out the door opener false when you are passing the false close, but most importantly along your driving route you want quiet. (This will prevent locking out additional unnecessary falses). Once you have locked out the falses in that area and TrueLock has stopped recording signals (Cumulative), TrueLock will lock out the specific frequency block/block’s you have locked out for less than 2/10mi from where the signal/signal’s end. (I never had a lock out area greater than 1/2mi). It is also important that if a 9500i owner sees a patrol car after activating TrueLock you should unlock that location and set it for lockout again in the future when a patrol car is not present.
Section-3/\__________________________________________________ __
"Threat/Risk Scenarios"
I found its best to lock out dally commute or areas you know well.
It is a good idea to lock out the door opener false when you are close but passing the false along your driving route you want quiet (This will prevent locking out additional unnecessary falses).
The 9500i records all signals it receives for a very short time/distance, approximately 1/10 to 1/2 of a mile depending on how strong the signal is and how many falses there are after you lock out the location (Cumulative).
Once the 9500I is powered down or self confirms (takes 1/10mi of no signal) It will lock out the false frequency block/block’s you locked out for approximately 1/10 to 1/2 mi from last signal received (total accumulative distance).
Video showing locking out of K 24.150 speed sign signal... than alert/spinning icon for less than 1/10mi... than 1/10mi with no radar... than a new radar speed sign ruining K 24.150 and alerting:
YouTube - 9500I truelock 24.150 1/10mi
Old TrueLock Video concerns thread, and part of the reason this sticky was created: = http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...-truelock.html =
“The Scenarios”
1) In areas where police X band isn't used, lock out X band falses the first time you encounter them. (No Risk )
2) In areas where police K band isn't used, lock out K band falses the first time you encounter them. (No Risk )
3) In areas where police do use K/X band but never sit in that area it would be a Low Risk lock out point. You will most likely lock this point out.
4) In areas where police K/X band is used and they do sit in that area it would be considered a High Risk lock out point (You may not want to lock this point out). Contrary to some videos out there it’s very unlikely to lock out real police radar. You would almost have to deliberately try to do it (especially after reading this post). Besides detection range will trump the small lock out area in the first place and provide ample warning/alert before the lock out point. In most cases Auto mode will do a good job filtering these falses anyway.
If you decide to lockout a false in a High Risk area to mute the alert you should still drive through the area with caution if you suspect any chance you could have locked out police radar. The same rules would apply if you were using any non GPS capable detector and instead pressed your mute button in false area. Simply treat the spinning satellite icon in your display as a silent alert and proceed with your own discretion and best judgment.
If you are still concerned about the unlikely scenario of locking out real police radar you can go to step/option 5:
The details/Tricks:
You can also lock out a single false signal within multiple false signals and nothing else by locking the specific location and powering down the 9500I (It will also keep the lock out area very small 1/10-2/10mi).
5) If they use K band in your area but you still want to lock out some falses you have 2 tricks you can try:
5a. K band door openers can be close to the center of K band (24.135 to 24.165MHz), where most actual police radar is found. You can use the frequency mode (Spec Display), to see if indeed the door opener is near the center of the actual radar band (24.150) or see what your local LEO’s are using and not lock out near there ~30MHz block.
Below results may vary depending on how close all radar is to lockout point.
5b. If K band is used and you want to try and only lock out 1 specific false. Drive close enough to get the 1 false alert only (don't sit directly in front of false, and have less than 1/2 full alert) then: lock out the desired false signal, once icon stops spinning (you will need to drive at least 500ft or more while icon is not spinning) power down the 9500I then power it up. See video: YouTube - 9500I True Lock .
5c. Another way would be to drive close enough to get the 1 false alert only (don't sit directly in front of false, and have less than 1/2 full alert), lock it out, power down the 9500I drive at least 1/2mi away with power off (wont record other signals when off), then power it back on.
These will help prevent the 9500i from searching for more signals after you lock out your desired one, therefore reducing the size of your lock out area. This will also help prevent the very small chance of locking out a LEO or multiple sources.
If you use my TrueLock "Tricks" above correctly and intelligently according to your area (No Risk, Low Risk, High Risk) TrueLock should always work fine.
Section-4/\__________________________________________________ __
Expert mode with Voice Alert on:
Unlike other modes you will receive a verbal notification of "Multiple frequencies detected" when receiving an additional and different frequency. The advantage in using this with TrueLock is if you’re at a previously locked out point and you receive a new/different signal the 9500I will bypass the lock out and show all of the current signals it is receiving with a verbal verification of "Multiple frequencies detected".
If you can deal with the visually small read out in Expert Mode and react on the 1st beep or 2 I feel it’s the best mode to use all the time on the 9500I. The 9500i locks out all radar it sees so its best to use expert mode when locking out so you can see what the 9500I sees. std & spec mode will only show the highest priority alert but may still be receiving an additional alert.
Note: If the two signals are the same band and fall in the same exact frequency block 30MHz in the same area it will show 1 alert.
Speck mode:
This is a very useful mode to use initially or in areas you want to know better. This mode will actually show you the frequency the LEO/false is using and you can determine what gun they may be using and its limitations.
I allso find its useful for preliminary testing of false locations to lock out.
In all actuality the "real world" is more likely to be safe than the perfect worse case scenario: Having multiple lock out's covering a wide band range in the same location with a LEO running the same power and frequency, plus you happen to lock out the high risk area (And there is a GOL guy taking videos :wink: ) It's unlikely, and to completely lock out and speed in a high risk area is just stupid.
Last edited by CJR238; 06-24-2008 at 12:10 PM.
The 9500I uses accumulative 30MHz block's with 1/10mi increments depending on how strong the signal is when you first lock out.
So:
You can have a 1/10mi lock out radius of a specific 30MHz block/block's if the initial locked out signal is week.
Or you can have up to a 1/2mi lock out radius of a specific 30MHz block/block's if the initial locked out signal is strong.
yeah, ; ; I did leave it unlock but i learned my lessonThe big question here is what is Shippuu going to do differently to ensure no one steals his $450 radar detector. You didn't leave your car door open before did you?i either bring my 9500I with me or i lock it in the glove compartment.
Yawn..................we all know that DJ and CJR are die hard believers in TrueLock and don't believe there's any chance it can fail by any standards itself...that it has to be the USER to Effed up........but you guys are starting to teeter on the line of being as thick headed as the V1 zombies that swear nothing else could possibly outweigh the ARROWs feature.
Seriously...give it a rest. There are situations where it has failed, and leading users to believe its nearly impossible is just wrong...let alone claiming its impossible unless they didnt "follow directions".........as seen in MY two situations, it can fail without you actually getting a ticket - I happen to be going slow both times.
But we all know the detector itself couldnt fail to alert on its own, it has to be the users fault. I got news for you...I havent locked out ANY falses with anything other than a WEAK signal, and obviously drive slow through any areas that should still be a possible threat in the lockout area........and have powered down the unit afterwards and not powered it up again until I was approx a mile away. Don't tell me that TrueLock doesnt fail at times through no fault of the user. My places where this happened should've been far enough away from the falses anyway.
And as I've said NUMEROUS times....I still love the 9500i...in my opinion, if you can't completely trust 100% that the TrueLock will not lock out a real threat.......its not worth the chance; and obviously others agree with me.
Last edited by RadarKid; 06-24-2008 at 11:31 AM.
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Your missing the point. TrueLock doesn’t' and wont work for you and your area if you have any concerns for locking out a real thret.
You chose to ignore what is clearly stated. I have never said TrueLock is flawless or that it works for everyone. I’m glad you like your 9500I but don’t put me in the Zombie category if you choose not to listen to what is clearly stated.
You are in a "High Risk" scenario so you shouldn’t of used it in the first place. I understand you wanted to try it for your self, and that’s why I give alternative choices to locking in a "High Risk" area. You had your fun, but I think it was obvious you were pushing the envelope.
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I even post concerns and Videos of how TrueLock can fail. As I stated before you are in a "High Risk" scenario and shouldn’t of used TrueLock. You chose to ignore the obvious.
[FONT=Verdana]You used TrueLock in a "High Risk" area so you should of known it had a chance of locking out a real threat. "High Risk" means high risk, not that it wont happen or even that it most likely wont? You loaded a 6 shooter with 5 bullets and pulled the trigger.
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I’m very glad you love your 9500I, but I think we have been more than clear that you are in a "High Risk" area, and it should of been obvious you were taking your own chances with it. You chose to hit the mute button 3 times, the 9500I didn’t do it for you.
For some people just the fact the spinning icon starting or ending later than normal would be a hint, or the fact it beeped 2 times in an area it didn’t normally would be good enough. Your concern is legitimate, but *****ing about something that has been clearly explained and documented than re-explained is just stupid because you went against what was suggested.
For me personally I would only lock out “Low Risk”areas, and when I know I will be driving a bit faster around that area I would just temporarily turn off the GPS filter.
No, YOU are missing the point. I wasnt in a "high risk" area where I locked out signals.....and I drive through my locked out areas slowly anyway. The point is that TrueLock is not 100% reliable...much in the same way it alerts SOMETIMES in previously locked out areas, and sometime it doesnt...
I locked out falses with low signal and was approx .4- 1/2 mile away from them and still locked out LEO's on two different occasions. 1/2 mile away should be OUT of the locked out area when I locked a low signal false and then shut it down afterwards.
O my god, you didint read my thred at all. You were in a High Risk lock out point. High risk means its very riskey and that its not advisable to do it.
Area a LEO could sit, block, area, street.
Heres the defanition:
high-risk (hī'rĭsk')
adj.I understand you used my outher options to help decrease the chance of locking out outher falses/LEO's but obveousley the scenareo you created was an exstream. I also think the lock out area could be perfected but it will always be a High Risk lock out point/area.
- <LI minmax_bound="true">Of, relating to, or characterized by risk: a high-risk business.
- Being particularly subject to potential danger or hazard: a high-risk surgical procedure.
4) In areas where police K/X band is used and they do sit in that area it would be considered a High Risk lock out point (You may not want to lock this point out). Contrary to some videos out there it’s very unlikely to lock out real police radar. You would almost have to deliberately try to do it (especially after reading this post). Besides detection range will trump the small lock out area in the first place and provide ample warning/alert before the lock out point. In most cases Auto mode will do a good job filtering these falses anyway.
Last edited by CJR238; 06-24-2008 at 12:26 PM.
For someone who quotes the dictionary...you sure could use a spell-check.
And I must've caused an EXTREME twice in two different areas..........two different days.....
Not likely bud.
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