Wanting to test home built lidar jammer

[Lucky225]

lastly , could someone confirm that Lidar guns actually use a 25w laser in them?!

Prolaser patent:
"The gallium-arsenide laser produces laser energy having a wave length of 905 nanometers with a peak power output of approximately 50 watts and a 30 to 50 nanosecond pulse width."

Laser Atlanta patent:
"In a preferred embodiment, the emitter is a GaAs type, producing laser radiation having a wavelength of about 905 nanometers, with a peak power output of approximately 50 watts and a 30-50 nanosecond pulse width. "

I can't remember the exact wattage, but it has been asked before how bright something has to be to where the gun can't find it's own pulse. All I remember the Prof. saying was that it wouldn't be eye safe.

Yeah so even with the reflection being weaker, if you wanted a CW source to be "so bright that the gun couldn't find it's own pulse", you would probably need a CW source of several watts. Certainly not practical, definitely not eye safe, and you would need a BIG power supply.

In my best Tim Allen impression....More Power!!!!

[The Chariot]

Something has me wondering.... how does a handheld, battery powered device the size of a lidar gun possibly put out 50 watts and not eat the batteries up in a hurry?

[category4]

The Laser Atlanta goes through batteries like it's kids cereal!!!

The LTI guns however seem to be much more miserly in their power consumption.

[Stealth Stalker]

The Laser Atlanta goes through batteries like it's kids cereal!!!

The LTI guns however seem to be much more miserly in their power consumption.

That's for sure! And ironically, the LA is the hardest gun to change batteries on too. Go figure.

I think I've changed batteries on my LTI twice in the year I've had it.

[category4]

The Laser Atlanta goes through batteries like it's kids cereal!!!

The LTI guns however seem to be much more miserly in their power consumption.

That's for sure! And ironically, the LA is the hardest gun to change batteries on too. Go figure.

I think I've changed batteries on my LTI twice in the year I've had it.

You should have seen how it goes through batteries before i got those HP rechargeable ones. They last 3 times longer than Duracells!!

[Eloi]

Something has me wondering.... how does a handheld, battery powered device the size of a lidar gun possibly put out 50 watts and not eat the batteries up in a hurry?

Because of the very very short pulses ,
during one second
the lasing emitter is off most of the time .

The 50 watts is just a figure
if the diode would be working
full time.

[jimbonzzz]

X2

For example, the PLIII pulse rate is 200pps, or one pulse every 5000000 nanoseconds. If each pulse lasts 50 nanoseconds, then the gun is only transmitting 0.00001% of the time.

The 50 Watts is peak power, average power is much lower.

Here's a quote from the LTI website:
"LTI lasers are completely eye safe, meeting FDA Class 1 specifications. The radiated light power of our lasers is on the order of 50 microwatts, or approximately one twentieth the light power of a typical TV remote control."

[Solion]

I was about to say WTF!!!! 50 WATTS!

For those who have worked with lasers in the visible light spectrum, This would be unbelievably bad bad bad for your vision. even diffused every friggin driver would be required to wear protective eye gear if this was the case.

However a class 1 laser at about 50 mw makes allot more sense. so that means if I were to source out 10 watts of diffused IR (in the right nm range) I would probly be close to (possibly) drowning out or blinding the reciever

something to test when I get to see Category 4 here hopefully soon.

But NOW for an update. Category 4 was ever so kind to give me a broken head unit to a blinder with all of the hookups. And I mean really, it is completely awesome that he did this to help me with this little project. It will really help break it down as to how the system works and if it is possible to hack things like sensors and emitter hads into a broken unit. here are some photos of the unit. Sadly the whole thing is sealed in epoxy resin (to prevent water damage) I have taken a sample of the resin and looking for something that will melt it without distroying the electronics or the board. But in the meantime. let me show you what I discovered and what I have done with it to begin hacking new emitter heads into a broken unit

As you can see I have taken off the cover to reveal the receiver/leds. looks like three Ir detectors with an array of IR leds for jamming. the four little connectors above the leds on the right side is a data port for updating the firmware for the unit. I cannot be sure till I test. But just perhaps they are a pinout for USB? Not going to mess with it till I can test the home made jamming heads with it.

I fired up the unit and as you can see we have only one led firing. this concerned me at first as I wondered if really all of the other leds were dead or did I have a corrosion issue that maybe had eaten up the traces and thus killed them. The original plan was to peel back the plastic and epoxy to reveal the solder points on the board for one of the leds. I would pigtail off of that, then tie in the darlington for my own heads. However no solder points to be found. so I assume the IR leds were laied flat and soldered to the board.

With the whole unit packed with (marine epoxy?) there wasn't going to be much chance of getting to the leads easily so my only choice without tearing into it with a dremel and possibly wrecking the unit was to grind one of the leds down to the leads and using a soldering iron get myself 2 good solid dots, then pigtail off of that.

As you can see by the meter I am getting a good .8v - 1v I threw the meter in hz mode and it said 120 so its a pulsing like it should and gives me more than enough to trip the transistor for my heads . I sealed my work up with some epoxy and we are off to the races to get them hooked up to my heads over the next couple of days.

Stay tuned!

[jimbonzzz]

I the four little connectors above the leds on the right side is a data port for updating the firmware for the unit. I cannot be sure till I test. But just perhaps they are a pinout for USB? Not going to mess with it till I can test the home made jamming heads with it.

Blinder M20 Connector info here:
http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...pl-pl90-3.html

Would be surprised if it changed since the M20...

[Lucky225]

Blinder Vs Some RD.net kid in US Court -- Stay tuned