(equinox 2010 ) best place to mount a detector, maybe 695 whistler?

[markm75]

I'm about to install a detector in this vehicle..

I'd prefer it to be high up and out of visible range, say near the rear view mirror.. just on memory, i dont think there is space above the mirror though i could be wrong..

WIll suction cups hold permanently? Will the tint at the top of the screen affect the performance of the detector...

In the past i've mounted them either right on the dashboard as close to the center and near the front glass as possible.. but im thinking higher up this time.. out of sight.

I'm also guessing ill have to run an extension cable of some kind, just going to the cig. lighter plug.. (hoping it has a memory feature, b/c the cig. lighters shut off when the car does).. so i'm guessing go along the ceiling windshield liner around either left or right then to the middle (without opening up dash)..

Any thoughts?

Thanks

[oscar_169]

Check out the Show Off Your Installs page lots of good ideas on there

[markm75]

Check out the Show Off Your Installs page lots of good ideas on there

Thanks, i took a look in there..

I see alot of visor mounts, but i'm not sure that the rear detection would work adequately, or does it even matter?

I like the positioning of the visor mount.

Do i need anything special for a visor mount.. for either the 695 whistler or the escort 8500?

I prefer it to sorta be hidden anyways.. i'm not liking the suction cup idea, below the mirror..

I think the only other option is directly on the dashboard up close to the window in my case.

That forum area, didnt have anyone with Equinox setups unfortunately.

[supercowpowers]

Check out the Show Off Your Installs page lots of good ideas on there

Thanks, i took a look in there..

I see alot of visor mounts, but i'm not sure that the rear detection would work adequately, or does it even matter?

I like the positioning of the visor mount.

Do i need anything special for a visor mount.. for either the 695 whistler or the escort 8500?

I prefer it to sorta be hidden anyways.. i'm not liking the suction cup idea, below the mirror..

I think the only other option is directly on the dashboard up close to the window in my case.

That forum area, didnt have anyone with Equinox setups unfortunately.

Unless you have a V1, the only rear radar "detection" you get is when the one antenna on the front of the unit picks up a signal that was reflected off of something in front of you. No other detectors have rear antennas, so don't worry about it.

Rear laser detection could be hindered, but laser detection is worthless anyway; jamming is the only real defense.

[markm75]

I took a stab at mounting the (escort 8500) radar detector on the headliner in the 2010 equinox..

This detector at least, is rather "long", so it comes up slightly "below" the sun visor.. i can push it far enough forward that it can sorta be worked around, but its not ideal..

IE: you have to pull the visor out of its holder and work it under the detector to get sun block ability for the top have of the window.

I wanted it there, so i could use the sunvisor without the detector being flipped with it (IE: its a visor clip mount)...

I have the hardwire kit as well.. found a 10 amp fuse which goes off when the key does (assuming 10 amp is enough?).. problem is, the hardwire isnt long enough either.. i'd need to use a rj11 coupler (can this even be done).. to extend its length?

[supercowpowers]

I have the hardwire kit as well.. found a 10 amp fuse which goes off when the key does (assuming 10 amp is enough?).. problem is, the hardwire isnt long enough either.. i'd need to use a rj11 coupler (can this even be done).. to extend its length?

10 amps is plenty. Open up the fuse holder on your hardwire kit and take a look at the fuse. If it's like mine, it's only 2A.

You can use a coupler. What I would do is cut the hardwire cord's phone line and crimp on a new plug, plug in the coupler, then cut another telephone line to the exact length you need. But you gotta have the right crimping tool to do that, I think it's about $30 at Radio Shack, but you wouldn't end up with 10 feet of phone cord coiled up.

[markm75]

I have the hardwire kit as well.. found a 10 amp fuse which goes off when the key does (assuming 10 amp is enough?).. problem is, the hardwire isnt long enough either.. i'd need to use a rj11 coupler (can this even be done).. to extend its length?

10 amps is plenty. Open up the fuse holder on your hardwire kit and take a look at the fuse. If it's like mine, it's only 2A.

You can use a coupler. What I would do is cut the hardwire cord's phone line and crimp on a new plug, plug in the coupler, then cut another telephone line to the exact length you need. But you gotta have the right crimping tool to do that, I think it's about $30 at Radio Shack, but you wouldn't end up with 10 feet of phone cord coiled up.

My direct line kit, didnt come with an inline 2 amp fuse..

So i went to radio shack, bought the cylinderical inline fuse adapter... with two contact points for soldering.. bought a 2amp fuse..

Do i simply "peel" back the hotline, to a point, cut that spot and strip the wire.. and solder each point to the inline fuse adapter? Or is this wire going to have 2 pairs when i strip it back (half of the 4 pairs in a phone cord).. do i just solder each two pair to the contact points?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

[supercowpowers]

My direct line kit, didnt come with an inline 2 amp fuse..

So i went to radio shack, bought the cylinderical inline fuse adapter... with two contact points for soldering.. bought a 2amp fuse..

Do i simply "peel" back the hotline, to a point, cut that spot and strip the wire.. and solder each point to the inline fuse adapter? Or is this wire going to have 2 pairs when i strip it back (half of the 4 pairs in a phone cord).. do i just solder each two pair to the contact points?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

What kind of hardwire kit do you have that doesn't have a long phone cord portion and a fuse/fuse holder? Did you get the Bel/Escort kit like this - Direct Wire Cord for Escort and Bel Radar Systems - Radar Detector Accessories at Radar Busters - or is it something else?

In any case, for wiring things in the vehicle I find it easier to crimp to make connections. Your local Advance Auto or Auto Zone should have everything you need.

I would buy a separate wire cutting tool, ratcheting crimper, and a stripping tool - the all in one deal that costs $15 or so is difficult to work with and doesn't produce good results. You'd also need a pack of "butt connectors" - I prefer the kind that have the heat shrink tubing on the ends because it provides some strain relief so the wire doesn't get tugged out, but that's optional. Of course that would also require the purchase of a small butane heat gun, which can also be found at the parts store. Total cost for all that should be around $50, which sounds like a lot, but money you spend on tools now won't have to be spent later when you tackle another project.

The process for joining two wires is pretty simple.

• Cut the wire to the desired length.
• Use the stripping tool to remove about 1/2" of insulation on the end of the wire.
• Insert the wire into one end of the butt connector and crimp it down.
• Do the same for the other wire.
• Activate the heat shrink tubing if you bought connectors that have it.

I wouldn't want to offer any more specific advice until we figure out what kind of hardwire kit we're talking about.

[markm75]

My direct line kit, didnt come with an inline 2 amp fuse..

So i went to radio shack, bought the cylinderical inline fuse adapter... with two contact points for soldering.. bought a 2amp fuse..

Do i simply "peel" back the hotline, to a point, cut that spot and strip the wire.. and solder each point to the inline fuse adapter? Or is this wire going to have 2 pairs when i strip it back (half of the 4 pairs in a phone cord).. do i just solder each two pair to the contact points?

Any thoughts?

Thanks

What kind of hardwire kit do you have that doesn't have a long phone cord portion and a fuse/fuse holder? Did you get the Bel/Escort kit like this - Direct Wire Cord for Escort and Bel Radar Systems - Radar Detector Accessories at Radar Busters - or is it something else?

In any case, for wiring things in the vehicle I find it easier to crimp to make connections. Your local Advance Auto or Auto Zone should have everything you need.

I would buy a separate wire cutting tool, ratcheting crimper, and a stripping tool - the all in one deal that costs $15 or so is difficult to work with and doesn't produce good results. You'd also need a pack of "butt connectors" - I prefer the kind that have the heat shrink tubing on the ends because it provides some strain relief so the wire doesn't get tugged out, but that's optional. Of course that would also require the purchase of a small butane heat gun, which can also be found at the parts store. Total cost for all that should be around $50, which sounds like a lot, but money you spend on tools now won't have to be spent later when you tackle another project.

The process for joining two wires is pretty simple.

• Cut the wire to the desired length.
• Use the stripping tool to remove about 1/2" of insulation on the end of the wire.
• Insert the wire into one end of the butt connector and crimp it down.
• Do the same for the other wire.
• Activate the heat shrink tubing if you bought connectors that have it.

I wouldn't want to offer any more specific advice until we figure out what kind of hardwire kit we're talking about.

It was off ebay, item 350101338334.. unfortunately it wont let me post the link.. apparently it was off brand generic, 8 foot cord, i think i need about 11 feet.

The line is speaker wire essentially, 24awg.. i was going to cut it at one point, then merge in the fuse holder..

Unfortunately i didnt get the inline mini fuse holder with wires, where i could have used the butt connector.. wasnt thinking at the moment..

I got radio shack part 270-364, a panel mount fuse holder with two metal contact points, which i figure i can still use and solder the cut wire onto each spot, then use black electric tape and tuck that behind my dash near the car fuse panel...

I bought a 2 amp fuse for in it.

[markm75]

Does the "real" direct wire rj11 have 4 pins or just two? The generic I have only has two wires in the middle of the connector

I can get a voltage reading from the generic connector. But when I plug it into the detector it won't come on. Is it possible I somehow reversed the two wires. Shall I try reversing them or could I kill the detector?