Hardwire suggestion

**robcollins5** · 01-27-2009, 04:43 PM

Many of you have already or are considering hardwiring. I appreciate a clean "stealthy" installation for all electronics in my vehicle. If it looks like it doesn't belong, it doesn't. Anyway, in my hardwiring forays I've learned a few tricks that I wanted to share with those of you who may or may not have heard these yet.

1. Mounting several items in close proximity provides good camoflage for LEOs looking in your windshield.
2. If possible, run a 12V and ground wire up into the roof from your fuse box. This way you can hardwire several items without having to extend each of their wires down the a-frame. Integrate an on/off switch with this wire or your main power hub should you add one.
3. Break off the "clip" on the phone-type plug that goes into your V1. I've not had a problem with the plug wiggling loose or my V1 detaching from the windshield and needing to be "caught" by the plug. Breaking off the clip allows you to remove the V1 from view of a LEO completely in one fluid motion without having to mess around with the stupid plug clips if by God's will you get pulled over. (For added stealthy-ness, use an aftermarket spring-loaded retractable phone line)
4. Invest in a remote display ASAP and hide the V1 behind your RVM.
5. Use electrical tape or shrink-tubing on EVERYTHING after using butt connectors, twist-ons, or M/F ends. Have a qualified buddy check your rigging.
6. Offer your services to anyone and everyone.

I like to post every bit of knowledge I have when I first get to a forum. I'm sorry if this topic has been covered already but review never hurts.

In line with #6, I am frequently all over Indiana (mostly Northern) and am more than willing to help anyone do a clean and safe hardwire in any vehicle at no charges.

I hope a good number of you have more to add to this....

rc

**speed-dreams** · 01-27-2009, 04:50 PM

Nice! and welcome aboard. I never use electrical tape, I use wire taps and wire joints (Butt-splice connectors) . The problem is that electrical tape loses it adhesive when in hot weather.

**fire65** · 01-27-2009, 05:04 PM

Welcome to the club. I agree with a few things you say. I have a 6 port fusable block under my dash, less then 10 bucks. Run a heavy wire to it from the main power under the hood. It will take 6 extra circuits but you can get as big as you want. Ground it, then run all add ons to the block. Each circuit has a plug in fuse whatever size you choose. I either use crimp on connections or solder with shrink tubing. I do use electrical tape in a few places. All of my extras also run thru switches.
Coiled cords are for people who change vehicles alot or when I have a power problem on the road, blow a fuse, whatever. Then I go to back up power.

**speed-dreams** · 01-27-2009, 05:11 PM

X^2
No tape FTW. Tape is also a b1tch to work with in hard to reach areas.

**th3 factory freak** · 01-27-2009, 06:17 PM

I have 2 cars with the same setup: V1, hardwired, concealed.

I highly recommand using the add-a-circuit and running the power via the fuse box.

2. I also recommand a kill switch for the system, which is easy to integrate.

I like to mount my unit high up, right side of the mirror. It's very hard to see from either side of the car.

When it comes to the install itself, I recommand people first position the detector and the concealed unit where they would want to mount them, and then start thinking about running the wires. All in all, it's not a difficult install at all in my opinion.