V1 city programming for dummies/HARDWIRE?

[pilot_corey]

Ok, so am I correct in believing that what one programs onto their V1 only "works" in little L mode? If it is in Big L or A mode, it will function without any programming? Also, does anyone have a recommended settings if you get a lot of K falses in the city? I looked at the one in the stickies and I was really confused.

Also, is there any need for soldering when hardwiring a V1 using the included direct wire kit? I was hoping to do the same thing I did with my x50 and use an ADD-A-Fuse which requires only crimping the two wires together? Finally, what fuse should I use in the add-a-fuse? I used a three with my x50.

And as always, you guys rock.

[kpatz]

Ok, so am I correct in believing that what one programs onto their V1 only "works" in little L mode? If it is in Big L or A mode, it will function without any programming? Also, does anyone have a recommended settings if you get a lot of K falses in the city? I looked at the one in the stickies and I was really confused.

The K band muting features (options 8 thru G) work in big L or small L mode, and are disabled in A mode.

Also, is there any need for soldering when hardwiring a V1 using the included direct wire kit? I was hoping to do the same thing I did with my x50 and use an ADD-A-Fuse which requires only crimping the two wires together? Finally, what fuse should I use in the add-a-fuse? I used a three with my x50.

There's no need to solder, though it's more secure than crimping. You can do it the same way as with your X50, using an add-a-fuse. The V1 will be fine with a 1 amp or larger fuse.

[pilot_corey]

Ok, so am I correct in believing that what one programs onto their V1 only "works" in little L mode? If it is in Big L or A mode, it will function without any programming? Also, does anyone have a recommended settings if you get a lot of K falses in the city? I looked at the one in the stickies and I was really confused.

The K band muting features (options 8 thru G) work in big L or small L mode, and are disabled in A mode.

Also, is there any need for soldering when hardwiring a V1 using the included direct wire kit? I was hoping to do the same thing I did with my x50 and use an ADD-A-Fuse which requires only crimping the two wires together? Finally, what fuse should I use in the add-a-fuse? I used a three with my x50.

There's no need to solder, though it's more secure than crimping. You can do it the same way as with your X50, using an add-a-fuse. The V1 will be fine with a 1 amp or larger fuse.

Thanks for the help! I asked in another section of the forum, but now I can't find it. You gave me what I need to know.

[kpatz]

Thanks for the help! I asked in another section of the forum, but now I can't find it. You gave me what I need to know.

Here? http://www.radardetector.net/forums/...616#post864616

[NormSky]

Don't use big "L" with K-band muting. There is a reason VR has a picture of the guy's head with a screw through it.

What are the sources of your falses? Duration and intensity in number of LEDs?

[OldGoat]

I use Advanced Logic mode with K-band AutoMute whenever I visit the Big City

It works GREAT!

[iflysmooth]

Ok, so am I correct in believing that what one programs onto their V1 only "works" in little L mode? If it is in Big L or A mode, it will function without any programming? Also, does anyone have a recommended settings if you get a lot of K falses in the city? I looked at the one in the stickies and I was really confused.

Also, is there any need for soldering when hardwiring a V1 using the included direct wire kit? I was hoping to do the same thing I did with my x50 and use an ADD-A-Fuse which requires only crimping the two wires together? Finally, what fuse should I use in the add-a-fuse? I used a three with my x50.

And as always, you guys rock.

Ok, so every option that has to do with the "K-band Automute" is as follows:

* To enable the "K false suppression", the user must program the "7","b","C","d","E","F" and "G"features as in previous versions.

print this out also and bring it to your v1...

1.Go to programming mode in the v1.
2.go to option 7, then make sure the arrow is pointed DOWN. (it is pointed UP as default from VR)
3.go to option b next, make sure arrow is pointed DOWN.
4.go to option C next, make sure arrow is pointed UP.
5.go to option d next, make sure arrow is pointed UP.
6.go to option E next, make sure arrow is pointed UP (default).
7.go to option F next, make sure arrow is pointed UP (default).
8.go to option G, make sure arrow is pointed DOWN.

--->ok, options b,C,d in that combination of arrows gives you 30 seconds K band automute time (with version 3.826, the one you have).

which means when you get a weak K band signal which is less than 4 dots, in BIG L mode you will not see it period (until its bigger than 4 dots).
in little L mode you will see it and hear it at MUTED volume (i keep my MUTE volume turned all the way down so i personally dont hear it) until 30 seconds is up the you will hear it as normal. in A mode, the v1 will work like you never programmed it period. when on the open highway and away from annoying K band falses, put your v1 in A mode. When in the city, you can put your v1 in Big L mode or little-L mode. remember BIG L mode doesnt show the muted alert or even sound to it. Little L mode will show it for the 30sec's and play it on mute volume then you will hear it.
Regular volume is the knob. Mute volume is the lever behind the knob.

[PshoootR]

WOW ! ! !
I printed out your advice and will put it in my glove box in the morning.

[nomore55]

Don't use big "L" with K-band muting. There is a reason VR has a picture of the guy's head with a screw through it.

+1. Really important statement here if you program your V1. Once programmed, you will use "A" mode or little "L" mode only.