Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 40
  1. #11
    Newcomer
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Chicago Suburbs
    Posts
    69

    Default

    dont buy citgo gas

  2. #12
    Yoda of Radar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    In front of my computer
    Posts
    10,773

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TSi+WRX
    Quote Originally Posted by Mackid343
    SmaartAasSaabr, when you say good quality fuel, what exactly do you mean? slightly higher octane or like kwik trips "top tier" gasoline that they advertise?
    Sorry to interject for my Saabr ops: - but what I believe he's saying is to get good quality gasoline, go to a station around you which you know supplies uncontaminated fuel.
    Exactly. Go somewhere reputable...

    UOA is nice but it tends to be overkill for a regular street car that is getting normal use. They are nice with a "home-made" engine or for commercial vehicles as this will give you a good point as to where to change the oil, but your GM car already has a little calculator using total revs, coolant temps, load to figure out a decent oil change interval. It's a nice system though you may want to change oil a bit earlier. Definately change the oil if the light pops up though.

    Air filters are really easy to see when they are due for a change just by pulling out the element and taking a look. Though typically it tends to be around 30k miles anyway. I tend to remove the element and blow some compressed air at it now and then just for fun.

  3. #13
    Radar Fanatic
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Staffordshire, Uk
    Posts
    2,000

    Default

    You have to be careful the air doesnt damage the filter.

    The 02 sensors they say need replacing every 60000 miles but from what i've found out is that you will get higher emissions if the 02 sensor is faulty, obviously it wont control the air to fuel ratio properly.

    There isnt much on modern engines which need adjustment, but i do believe that modern cars do need visual inspections more often.

    I'm always looking under the bonnet and checking everything is in order, most people say if it's not broke don't fix it problem is if somethings on its way out it could well take something else with it.

    Or it may go at an unexpected time, or when you really need the car the most, preventive maintinance...

  4. #14
    Power User
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    3,939

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bballkking1
    dont buy citgo gas
    Why not? Is gas from Venezuela no good?

  5. #15
    Experienced
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    309

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stealthJamal
    Quote Originally Posted by bballkking1
    dont buy citgo gas
    Why not? Is gas from Venezuela no good?
    IMO, I got poor gas mileage when I use Holiday and Citgo gas. Lately I've gone to Marathon, now that they have the STP additives. My local station just replaced their tanks so I know I don't have to worry about water in it or contamination.
    IMO if you want your vehicle to last... be nice to it, don't redline it everytime. When I start it up, I wait until all the lights and bells turn off so all the oils can start to circulate. Dry starts are bad enough why make it worse, Especially with the cold weather we've had here the last week in MN. IMO can't hurt to take 5-10 seconds to let everything start circulating.

  6. #16
    Lead Foot
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Connecticut drivers are morons
    Posts
    355

    Default

    Follow the owner's manual on scheduled maintenance.

    Don't use motor oil additives, they don't do anything and may harm the engine. If they work, why don't oil companies use them in the first place?

    Bad O2 sensors will throw a code, there's no schedule for those.

    Personally, I don't think people pay enough attention to proper tire pressure. Tire pressure affect braking, cornering, gas mileage, and how long your tires last.

    Prime the engine first after an oil change to build up oil pressure; you don't want your internals running with no lubrication, even for just seconds. Basically turn the key long enough to crank the engine, but just enough to get the oil pump moving without actually starting the car. I do this too if I haven't driven the car in a couple of weeks.

  7. #17

    Default

    fart can and 93oct!!!

  8. #18
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cleveland/Shaker Heights, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    ^ Hey, I resemble that remark! ops:

  9. #19
    Power User
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Southlake, TX
    Posts
    4,136

    Default

    to Maintain performance id say just stick to factory service intervals, agreed with the air filters, but like SAS said those usually go for 20-30k anyways so its all good I order in the cleaner kit and clean my filter every 10k or so (AEM Dryflow, easy cleaning with no messy oil BS to deal with ) cone air filters are easier to check because all youve gotta do is open the bonnet and look at it........... good gas always helps, I usually hit up Racetrac for my gas, but ive never had any problems with Chevron (always happy) and their additive package will also help to keep you clean some might invest in those fuel system treatments, that might help, some say use often (maybe every other tank or every tank) and some say just use every 5-6k........ they seem to work for me, my old F22 is still running strong after 120k, sure its still small for a honda, but i drive the daylights out of that car, simply because its so fun

    so my list of things to do in the end:

    1) change oil regularly (sure synthetics say they can go long perods but just test the texture every now and then to see if a change is neccesary..... ive seen synthetics last 20k, and ive seen them last 5k, it all depends)

    2) good gas

    3) air filter cleaning (like SAS said if you take some compressed air and shoot it opposite the usual flow direction of the intake air itll get some of the biger particles off of there)

    4) Spark plugs: they usually last a good while but check um every now and then, because like my block eats sparkplugs, I checked one after having it in for 2 days and the thing was already COVERED in carbon.... I guess it likes to burn rich.......... Iridiums offer beter mileage and power but cost a bunch more but also tend to last longer, Platinum is a good step for anybody, and copper core plugs are your average tun-of-the-mill cheapo plugs but they still do their job really well

  10. #20
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Cleveland/Shaker Heights, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    7,732

    Default

    ^ Be careful on "generalized" spark-plug recommendations.

    Some cars just don't like certain setups, and as such, it's often always better to just stick with your factory-recommended plugs, and leave this variable out of the equation.

    Otherwise, check with your specific-vehicle enthusiast Forum to find out which plugs are recommended, as well as for proper gapping.


 

 

Similar Threads

  1. Maximum Bob retires...
    By srtga in forum Car Talk
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-02-2010, 04:29 AM
  2. Avoiding Jam Codes vs Maximum Performance
    By JDS in forum Detector & Counter Measure Testing and Reviews
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-09-2008, 05:25 AM
  3. V1 maximum detection range?
    By a529612 in forum Valentine One
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 11-30-2007, 11:13 PM
  4. maximum voltage for harwire?
    By kap1027 in forum Escort
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-12-2005, 06:40 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •