dont buy citgo gas
dont buy citgo gas
Exactly. Go somewhere reputable...Originally Posted by TSi+WRX
UOA is nice but it tends to be overkill for a regular street car that is getting normal use. They are nice with a "home-made" engine or for commercial vehicles as this will give you a good point as to where to change the oil, but your GM car already has a little calculator using total revs, coolant temps, load to figure out a decent oil change interval. It's a nice system though you may want to change oil a bit earlier. Definately change the oil if the light pops up though.
Air filters are really easy to see when they are due for a change just by pulling out the element and taking a look. Though typically it tends to be around 30k miles anyway. I tend to remove the element and blow some compressed air at it now and then just for fun.
You have to be careful the air doesnt damage the filter.
The 02 sensors they say need replacing every 60000 miles but from what i've found out is that you will get higher emissions if the 02 sensor is faulty, obviously it wont control the air to fuel ratio properly.
There isnt much on modern engines which need adjustment, but i do believe that modern cars do need visual inspections more often.
I'm always looking under the bonnet and checking everything is in order, most people say if it's not broke don't fix it problem is if somethings on its way out it could well take something else with it.
Or it may go at an unexpected time, or when you really need the car the most, preventive maintinance...
Why not? Is gas from Venezuela no good?Originally Posted by bballkking1
IMO, I got poor gas mileage when I use Holiday and Citgo gas. Lately I've gone to Marathon, now that they have the STP additives. My local station just replaced their tanks so I know I don't have to worry about water in it or contamination.Originally Posted by stealthJamal
IMO if you want your vehicle to last... be nice to it, don't redline it everytime. When I start it up, I wait until all the lights and bells turn off so all the oils can start to circulate. Dry starts are bad enough why make it worse, Especially with the cold weather we've had here the last week in MN. IMO can't hurt to take 5-10 seconds to let everything start circulating.
Follow the owner's manual on scheduled maintenance.
Don't use motor oil additives, they don't do anything and may harm the engine. If they work, why don't oil companies use them in the first place?
Bad O2 sensors will throw a code, there's no schedule for those.
Personally, I don't think people pay enough attention to proper tire pressure. Tire pressure affect braking, cornering, gas mileage, and how long your tires last.
Prime the engine first after an oil change to build up oil pressure; you don't want your internals running with no lubrication, even for just seconds. Basically turn the key long enough to crank the engine, but just enough to get the oil pump moving without actually starting the car. I do this too if I haven't driven the car in a couple of weeks.
fart can and 93oct!!!
^ Hey, I resemble that remark!![]()
ops:
![]()
to Maintain performance id say just stick to factory service intervals, agreed with the air filters, but like SAS said those usually go for 20-30k anyways so its all good I order in the cleaner kit and clean my filter every 10k or so (AEM Dryflow, easy cleaning with no messy oil BS to deal with) cone air filters are easier to check because all youve gotta do is open the bonnet and look at it........... good gas always helps, I usually hit up Racetrac for my gas, but ive never had any problems with Chevron (always happy) and their additive package will also help to keep you clean some might invest in those fuel system treatments, that might help, some say use often (maybe every other tank or every tank) and some say just use every 5-6k........ they seem to work for me, my old F22 is still running strong after 120k, sure its still small for a honda, but i drive the daylights out of that car, simply because its so fun
so my list of things to do in the end:
1) change oil regularly (sure synthetics say they can go long perods but just test the texture every now and then to see if a change is neccesary..... ive seen synthetics last 20k, and ive seen them last 5k, it all depends)
2) good gas
3) air filter cleaning (like SAS said if you take some compressed air and shoot it opposite the usual flow direction of the intake air itll get some of the biger particles off of there)
4) Spark plugs: they usually last a good while but check um every now and then, because like my block eats sparkplugs, I checked one after having it in for 2 days and the thing was already COVERED in carbon.... I guess it likes to burn rich.......... Iridiums offer beter mileage and power but cost a bunch more but also tend to last longer, Platinum is a good step for anybody, and copper core plugs are your average tun-of-the-mill cheapo plugs but they still do their job really well
^ Be careful on "generalized" spark-plug recommendations.
Some cars just don't like certain setups, and as such, it's often always better to just stick with your factory-recommended plugs, and leave this variable out of the equation.
Otherwise, check with your specific-vehicle enthusiast Forum to find out which plugs are recommended, as well as for proper gapping.
![]()
Bookmarks