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Sure, sorry i didn't catch the request sooner.Originally Posted by Flitsservice.nl
ops:
How far back do you want me to be?
As far as the 20deg, i'm thinking mark the ground at 0, and 90. measure the distance, take half for 45, half of that and move a few degrees over.
Is this the easiest way or is there a better way to ensure i'm at 20 deg?
That setup would be great. When you sit in the car, 0 degrees would be front, then 45 degrees to the left and then half up would be great.Sure, sorry i didn't catch the request sooner.
How far back do you want me to be?
As far as the 20deg, i'm thinking mark the ground at 0, and 90. measure the distance, take half for 45, half of that and move a few degrees over.
Is this the easiest way or is there a better way to ensure i'm at 20 deg?
If you would take a watch, 10:30 on the short arrow would be about the 20 degrees.
Take different distances and heights please.
Thanks!
No problem. i'm glad you responded before i did this. i was going to just do the rear, but i noticed you are talking on the front.
i don't have a front plate ( not required), so i'll just move the rear one for the test, or i'll make something similar for the test.
either way, i'll go ahead and do it front and rear at different distances and heights.
okay, i did the test again from straight on to about 20deg left and right.
You are correct, at this angle the plate IS still visible. it doesn't start to block until 30-35 deg. at 45 it's fully blocked( half of it) and past 45 it then blocks more, including the other half of the plate.somewhere at around 60-80 deg( i think, the video should confirm) it actually starts to unblock the side that was blocked, while then blocking the other side.
i did this from about 40' away (and up to the plate), left and right, and from about 10'+ up on a ladder. the height didn't make much difference in legibility. depending on height and time of day, glare may be a little better or worse depending, but it didn't change the ability to see it.
now from about 6' away, if i moved the camera up, it would start to block the whole plate.
i think what i'm going to do when i put it back on, is use the idea someone had here to put a spacer behind it. i'm going to angle it down as much as possible, without it being obvious from the sides if someone (LEO) is in a car next to or behind me, or someone walking up to the car (LEO again).
Give me a day or so to edit and post the video clips.
the short answer is, from straight on to 20 deg, it IS visible. it doesn't block it until 30-35 deg.
okay, i took 2.8 gigs and cut it to 10 megs.
i don't like the way it came out, but here it is anyway.
it mainly answers the question of whether or not the plate is visible at 20 degrees and the answer is YES.
you must be around 35-45 deg before it is fully blocking half the plate.
between the first video and this one you will be able to see this.
height doesn't appear to make much difference either.
now i did the spacer idea with some washers when i put the cover back on the rear, and angling it down does seem to help block things a bit better from higher angles. too much though and besides being real obvious, it makes it harder to see from standard angles, which could draw unwanted attention, so i would suggest playing with that idea to see what works best for you.
here's the video. 10.2 MB
www.donspc.com/Forum/Superprotectormed.WMV
Ok, thanks for the trouble!
Gatso cameras
As some of you know I'm from Greece. Here the police uses stationary Gatso cameras with piezoelectric lanes, so I bought a Super Protector which I use only when I travel, usually at night where there is no traffic.
The other thing they use is mobile Gatso (in tripods) using Ku band, but they are rare and after all I can detect them with my Bel 550. Of course they use Gatso cameras inside unmarked police cars (K band) but I detect them too. Only lately they started using them as instant on. They turn it on, only when they see someone way over the speed limit (on a limit of 120Km/h they start photograph when you are over 140 or 150). They follow him, they line up behind him and they take the photograph. Imagine that in the most dangerous place in our highways, where we have over 100 dead people the last year the cameras are set to 120Km/h when the limit is 80-90Km/h.
Anyway. I need info about the stationary Gatsos. I know they have an angle of 20-22 deg facing the road with a beamwidth of about 5 deg. I don't know thought 2 things:
1. At what height do they have the camera? I, myself made a calculation that the camera is about 3,5m above the ground level. My calculation is based on the hight my hand can reach, so it's rather inaccurate.
2. At what distance from the camera do they usually put the piezoelectric lanes? Is there a standard or they change it according to the local conditions? I made an optical calculation and the nearest they can put it is less than 15m and the farthest about 50m.
Using elementary trigonometry (lets say that the licence plate is 0,5m above the ground level) for a camera at 3,5m (3m above the level of the plate) and a car about 20m away the angle is about 9 deg (8,5 more accurate). The limits for the angle are 3,5 deg for 50m from the camera and 16,7 deg for 10m from the camera. According to what RacerX wrote (and tested of course) the Super Protector doesn't work on these cameras. Am i missing something or I just hit the jackpot = the SP is useless in my case?
Is there any luck if I drive as left as possible to increase the horizontal angle? I believe that for a 20 deg camera with a beamwidth of 5 deg, for a car at 10m away from the camera the angle is 40-50 deg and for a car 50m away from the camera the angle is 5-15 deg. For intermediate distances we have 20 deg +/- 5 deg = 15-25 deg which means the SP is ineffective again. But if we are close to the camera (less than 20m)...the situation is good to save yourself from a deadly photograph. That's why I ask about the distances of the piezoelectric lanes.
I expect your opinions about my calculations. I admit the numbers and calculations are very inaccurate and prone to false but they give the resume of my thinking.
Thnx in advance for your time. Sorry for the long post and my english.
Some of these guys will be able to give you a better answer than i can, but let's try.
if you are dealing with cameras that only shoot from one side, i think you could easily "adjust" the SP to fit your needs. since the plates sit square, if you used spacers (washers) you could adjust the angle of it until you get the degree you want. you may have to setup some string on the ground or something and maybe even use a small ladder and play with it until you get full blockage at the desired angles.
No guarantees this will still work at all possible angle/distance combinations, but it may put it much closer to the degree of coverage you need.
i'm no photo expert so hopefully someone else can either confirm this or explain why it still wouldn't work.
Which plates don't work??????
SpecterGuard anti-photo plates. They are not visible from the rear or straight on as claimed. Anyone with the naked eye can plainly see that your license is covered. You will get yourself a ticket real fast with this product.
Go to their website and you will see all of their BS disclaimers, no return policy, not responsible warnings because they don't back their product because they don't work. Phony, fakes and frauds. Operating out of Hermossa, Florida.
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Special camera and computer technology combine to photograph the back of your vehicle as you drive by, and record your speed at that exact second. Based on the results - a ticket is then issued to the owner of the vehicle. Radar and laser detectors are ineffective due to the narrow beam width and angle across the road. Even if you do detect the beam, its too late. You're caught!
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Photo radar operates at known angles to the direction of traffic flow. Using a passive, state-of-the-art light-bending lens, the camera is unable to identify your vehicle. A 5-minute installation is all that is required. Note that the license plate will still be completely readable from straight on.
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